I didn't get any detonation but the outlet temp of 101 deg C from the turbos is way to hot. Much hotter than what simulations show it should be for my setup so I'll be eager to see what water injection does for that. I could gain about 30/30 worth of power and torque if I could get the temp down to 100 deg F. I'm not sure why it's that hot. For my turbo combination .60/.48 turbine I have to run at least 10 psi to get into the 74% island but it appears I'm running in the 50% range if the outlet temp is any indication. The water injection nozzle will go ahead of the MAT sensor to measure the effect of the misting. I hope it lowers temps considerably or I'll have to consider a front mount intercooler and running long pipes back to the engine in the rocker panel moldings, there is room to fit the pipes I've already checked.
Last edited by Joseph Upson; 05-26-2008 at 11:48 PM.
Will it be easier to run the long charge pipes, or use a fan-cooled intercooler near the turbos to help reduce lag?
I don't believe there will be much delay considering the performance of the rear mount turbo systems particularly referring to the Z24 example. I have a large intercooler as seen in my pictures and when I put my hand over one end and tried blow air into the other the pressure build up was instant and if the result is air temps less than a 100 deg F the gain will far exceed any potential lag that might develop.
There is not enough room for a fan cooled inter cooler of sufficient size in the engine area and the fan would need to move as much air as would pass through the core if it were in the windstream which I'm certain I wouldn't be able to manage in the small compartment area.
Back at it again. I'm just about finished with the exhaust. The headers 1 3/4" 14 Ga steel and along with the flanges from the store I'm very pleased with how it all has come together. So far the test fit is fine, the headers have been painted and because of a lack of gaskets so far it looks like the wastegates will be open dump again unless NAPA can come through for me tomorrow.
I have fabricated another wire harness to run Code59 and a 3 Bar MAP, that was completely disassembled first and repinned from plug A through F and installed in the car so that wires can't be cut to proper length and soldered to the sensor plugs. The engine bay will be a lot more civilized than before and that makes diagnosing problems should there be any much easier.
After the exhaust and harness are completed, I will add the 60 lb/hr injectors, Mallory 30-100 psi adjustable by-pass fuel pressure regulator which I would have purchased from the start for the returnless fuel rail had I been aware of its existance early own. I have a second Walbro fuel pump, external to compliment the in tank Walbro and will be changing out the solid mounts for the interlocking poly mounts.
YAY!! I've been waiting to see more progress. Can't wait to have the time/materials to finish mine.
It's about time we get some exotic builds going.
Let me know how you like the $59. I also purchased a 3bar MAP and plan on using it.
EDIT: Interesting take on the collectors. Have more pics of them while you were building them? I thought about doing the same, but instead decided to nab some 3-1 5/8's swagged collectors. For $18/ea they are worth a try.
Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-01-2008 at 08:59 AM.
YAY!! I've been waiting to see more progress. Can't wait to have the time/materials to finish mine.
It's about time we get some exotic builds going.
Let me know how you like the $59. I also purchased a 3bar MAP and plan on using it.
EDIT: Interesting take on the collectors. Have more pics of them while you were building them? I thought about doing the same, but instead decided to nab some 3-1 5/8's swagged collectors. For $18/ea they are worth a try.
I considered 3-1 collectors but as you can see on the right bank (even cylinders) I didn't feel I had enough room for one and didn't see the point of butchering a perfectly good part when properly spaced. I did use 14 Ga steel and instead of dooming it all by heat wrapping it, I'm going to shield it with aluinum and put heat wrap over the shield itself to avoid accelerated corrosion.
I haven't solved the muffler problem yet as the OBX N1 mufflers I ordered were falsely advertised on ebay regarding the dimensions and they wound up far to big. They did issue a full refund so I'm not fussing especially since it freed up money for something else I want more for the car.
I'm about to go weld up the wastegates and will post more pictures later.
impalas, G6's, etc. No its a new block, but still a 60*v6.
New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
Although I failed to get the much desired test drive with the revised exhaust and ecm code swap, I did complete the exhaust and it sounds amazingly quiet for the short time it ran with straight through mufflers that sounded similar to the Z car and infiniti V6 exhaust which is exactly what I was aiming for. No gurgling, no popping, no hollow can sound so far.
Sound good, but too bad it has the fart can look. I hope you can settle on an ECM code so you can get this thing tuned and actually running sometime!
New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird
New 2010 project (click image)
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