How are you doing with Moats? I always had good dealings with him. Seems unusual not to receive any support. When I 1st got my AutoProm USB I had all kinds of issues, all my fault but got plenty of help. I'm gonna blame my problems on a crappy users guide, LOL.
Initially the reponse time was really good however, I wasn't near the car when I received the unit and was mainly working on connecting up to the emulator with the laptop while away from home. When I did get home to try to link up with the vehicle is where things stopped going as well.
First I agree fully the little sheet of "destructions" was the catalyst for some of the problems I ran into along with a lack of ideas of what the problems could have been keeping me from connecting to the ecm with the TGP code. For example, there should be info on exactly which vehicles the unit services that need the 10 ohm switch closed or opened and a detailed step by step process on how to setup the unit properly with the computer particularly insuring that the driver has been installed properly aside from what Win XP says. Datamaster included instructions like that and it ended up helping me finally link up to the ecm although months later.
The Beretta code worked fine. You know how much the unit costs, so hopefully you can understand my frustration when it didn't work for the very purpose behind my purchasing it. I didn't slam the product or the manufacturer but I made it known I wasn't happy, after that I never received another response from Moates or Mark (Tunerpro) although part of what made me fire off a few rounds was the lack of response when I needed it from them most.
If more time were put into the instructions a lot of time and frustration could be averted. I feel like I know more about how to get the emulator to work with the vehicle than Moates does now. I still haven't been successful with emulating and datalogging at the same time using the 8F code which the instructions state you can do. It works with the Beretta A1 code but hey, it datalogs now so I'll take that.
There was no mention of firmware for the APU in the instructions if I recall correctly which makes no sense given how important it is. I stumbled across it on the site and immediately it restored part of the system functions like verifying a properly loaded bin file. It's okay though, I've learned to expect less and less in exhchange for my cash now.
I went from a commodore programmer that was probably 10 yrs old to a AutoProm. From pulling and programing for every change, basically guessing to real time emulation was worth the aggrevation. I have had mine for probably 3 yrs and still find myself on the Moats msg board trying to figure things out for diffrent ecm's. I guess if it was easy everyone would be doing it. One thing that did help me was buying a old slow laptop and dedicating it to the AutoProm. $60.00 for a eBay Compaq and I just leave it in the garage. Has nothing but bins and Tunerpro. It makes no sense but it made a diffrence in my mind anyway, seemed everytime I hook it to another comp I get some sort of problem.
Another thing, do not use the long ribbon cable and keep the USB as short as practical. I couldn't get anything done with the long ribbon and there are plenty of messages about those cables on the Moates site. I also had problems with a 9 ft USB cable, went to a 6 and solved the problem. Might have just been a bad cable but I never tried another to see.
Longer cable means voltage drop, and more susceptible to interference.
New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
I purchased the complete outfit, in other words everything including my cable to chip adaptor is from Moates, so if the cable is to long I have no control over that and coincidently I did feel the cable is longer than what it needs to be. As for connecting to the computer, it has a USB cable connection and is an upgraded version so there should be no need to down grade my laptop.
It's not a difficult piece of equipment to use, the instructions need to be reworked and since the emulator only works with a handfull of older cars many of which share the same platforms for simplification the trouble is more so in the lack of instruction supplied with the unit. Again Datamaster went as far as to mention that the 8192 systems didn't need the 10 ohm circuit. Info like that saves you the wasted time of experimenting with the switch in the wrong position in an effort to get the unit working properly.
In my situation the unit worked properly for one car but not at all for another it was designed for.
The Moates forum barely has any traffic aside from the individuals posting with problems and it can easily be seen by looking at the dates on the posts that there is hardly anyone there to offer any direction although I was fortunate enough to get some help from 6 shooter whom I was acquainted with on the Z24 forum.
I picked up a video camera today so next trip home I'll at least be able to post some respectable footage to makeup for the crappy example posted from the digital camera I used.
There are two joints that need better sealing to eliminate the sucking sound that's produced on deceleration from scavenging pulling air into the gaps. I'm trying to figure out what to do to refine the exhaust note to something between open and glass packed. I don't like the truck like sound and am considering maybe trying a small balance tube between the split exhaust and possibly glasspacks with a smaller case than 5" or maybe some dual tips with some muffling ability. I have limited space so whatever I use has to be in the small size range on the Fiero.
I didn't want to post these clips because they're crappy, however I have a video camera now so next trial should be more appreciated. I believe the cam is at about the limit grind wise, vacuum hoovers around 13 and actually goes up initially when the pedal is pressed but that might be a side effect of the malfunctioning MAP sensor affecting timing. It's better to listen to the muffled exhaust first.
Dynomax Ultraflo. It will give a deeper sound with more rumble. The glass-packs sound too buzzy and rice sounding. The ultraflo is straight through as well so no loss in CFM really.
How come it takes so many cranks to start? Is the tune that far off? Maybe the bad MAP is causing that as well.
New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
Dynomax Ultraflo. It will give a deeper sound with more rumble. The glass-packs sound too buzzy and rice sounding. The ultraflo is straight through as well so no loss in CFM really.
How come it takes so many cranks to start? Is the tune that far off? Maybe the bad MAP is causing that as well.
The MAP sensor is probably causing all sorts of trouble. The engine idles fine but requires full throttle (clear flood) starting and because of the trouble I was having I set the tables back to OE settings since removing fuel was showing the opposite effect at some points.
New MAP sensor installed and as suspected that was the problem. Now I have to find the persisting rev limit which is holding rpm to about 4700 rpm, it's not under "rev limiter" in Tunerpro, I've bumped all of those up over 6000 rpm and I'm still hitting a limit. Then I can make some adjustments to the tune in an effort to test drive it. During a datalog I noticed my BLM is constant after closed loop and normal operating temps. Not sure if there is a problem or not.
I just went over the datalog and noted that the engine never went into closed loop so that maybe why the BLM didn't change. I believe there is a bug in Tunerpro, I had the rev limiter problem before and it took Tunercat to iron it out. I checked and found the rev limiter to be set at just over 4000 rpm in Tunercat and moved it up over 6k. I checked it in Tunerpro and it is showing the lower rpm so that when I increase it in Tunerpro the value comes up decreased in Tunercat and visa-versa, but when increased in Tunercat the engine revs appropriately so the problem has to be Tunerpro.
Originally Posted by JohnnyReb
New 2010 project (click image)
It will give a deeper sound with more rumble. The glass-packs sound too buzzy and rice sounding. The ultraflo is straight through as well so no loss in CFM really.
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