4 bolt mains

[chevette_boy]

I'm interested in the outcome.

Since my next motor is going to be a big-power twin turbo, I need all the help I can get since I want to see what a 3.1/3400 can really do.

You could save yourself some dough by using a 3x00 block. The 3x00 block is actually stronger. A local has split a 3.4 block down the valley in a 300+hp N/A sprint car (I sold him a 3500 block ) running 14:1 SCR and a 6000rpm max.

Nice job on the car, BTW.

500-600 is also my goal as well, trying for 250whp N/A first.

What compression/turbos/fuel are you using?

id love to run a 3x00 block but its more work than its worth to make it fit in the car. i would like to make 500hp 600lbft this year which is not much more than i made last year. im running 8.8:1 compression, mitsubishi 13c turbos and 94 octane at 10 psi and 25% c14+ with the 94 @ 15 psi

[Google Adsense]

[Ortie666]

I was thinking of using a FWD block, then mounting a reverse starter on the top back side of the bellhousing, kind of like those Quarter Master bell's used on latemodel stock cars.. Instead, I will be going with just a 3.4L also.. But still might do that so the starter quits getting heat soaked from the headers..

yea the holes will be splayed and positioned as per gm's blueprints. ill work on a price once i get a working set. Nice to see another chevette owner using the 6-60* its nice and light and very powerful

Yeah, there fun cars to have V6's in and big tires on.. Kind of like a glorified Go-kart. I would like to see some other pictures of under the hood tho.
Ohh, and I noticed ur from Manitoba, Im from Saskachewan, I think June there is a Drifting demo at the Brandon Airport I will be attending with atleast one of my cars

[Wiz85]

Well Ortie666 and chevette_boy, I'm currently doing a Gen 3 3100 swap in my swap but of course I'm having problems. Yes I would like for the starter to be on the passenger side, mechanical distributor (no now), engine mounting to be the same on the RWD block, a clockwise spun water pump, shallower oil pan, andfor the coolant to return to the front of the engine. But as I learned that RWD blocks are quite a bit different. I wanted to fab my own intake for a Holley and with a mechanical distributor but it's looking to be harder than I thought to make it work.

I thought I could mill off the intake runners on the LIM and fab up some straight runners to a carb flange. But I'm thinking about making a custom UIM with a carb flange instead.

And I also thought I could flip the LIM 180 degrees to run the thermostat in the front but it hits the timing cover. Well that's no prolem I can cut it off and reposition and reweld, but I didn't know that coolant doesn't flow through the LIM at the front of the head or basically there's no provision for coolant flow on the opposite side of the thermostat. So I don't wanna do that b/c if I flipped the lower intake around, I wouldn't get good water flow at the back of the head. So if somebody knows if other year LIMs flow both front and back of the head, that would be great would be willing to buy it.

Now I would like to run a distributor for now until later when I'm going to run a full stand alone. But I'm not even sure if a distributo will fit, looks like it's going to hit the intake.

The starter makes everything seem really close and as far as my wp problem (since only running wp, alt and crank pulley), I machined last weekend an idler pulley close to wher the A/C was and that should solve that. Oil pan I'm cutting up and rewelding to fit. But the bright side is, the heads are the best flowing heads on 3100s and their Aluminum.

[SappySE107]

I am not aware of anyone having an issue after the lower intake has been flipped around. I never thought about the coolant flow with the head blocked off at the back now, but I will be doing this in an MGB swap. I would hate to have to setup a long hose to the back, but it could be done.

[neo71665]

Interested in the outcome of the caps.

[ForcedFirebird]

I am not aware of anyone having an issue after the lower intake has been flipped around. I never thought about the coolant flow with the head blocked off at the back now, but I will be doing this in an MGB swap. I would hate to have to setup a long hose to the back, but it could be done.

HMMM. Have to wonder how good the cooling is in the back of the block when the water pump would only be really circulating the water at the front in a RWD situation.

The 5&6 would be even worse in this case, even with the squirters on the 3500 block. Now I wonder if it is wiser to get circulation elsewhere if the manifold is turned around. Even though we have not heard of any problems, ahs any RWD with FWD heads been examined after abuse?

[Joseph Upson]

HMMM. Have to wonder how good the cooling is in the back of the block when the water pump would only be really circulating the water at the front in a RWD situation.

The 5&6 would be even worse in this case, even with the squirters on the 3500 block. Now I wonder if it is wiser to get circulation elsewhere if the manifold is turned around. Even though we have not heard of any problems, ahs any RWD with FWD heads been examined after abuse?

This issue is addressed in the 3900 and 3500 VVT engines in which case the cooling efficiency would not be optimum with the intake turned around on the non VVT 3500. The cylinder heads on the VVT engines have assymetrical coolant holes as in the front half of the head deck surface does not mirror the rear half resulting in left and right cylinder heads for these engines.

Unfortunately a cylinder head shot is the one picture I do not have to show you the difference as I did not notice it right away when I disassemled the engine. The good news is if the VVT engine's cylinder head valves will clear the 3500 bore you can have the coolant exit the front of the engine with proper cooling characteristics as long as you matched the coolant holes in the OE gasket and make outlet fittings for the heads. You will also have upgraded your intake system flow characteristics considerably as well more so for a blown engine.

[Superdave]

HMMM. Have to wonder how good the cooling is in the back of the block when the water pump would only be really circulating the water at the front in a RWD situation.

The 5&6 would be even worse in this case, even with the squirters on the 3500 block. Now I wonder if it is wiser to get circulation elsewhere if the manifold is turned around. Even though we have not heard of any problems, ahs any RWD with FWD heads been examined after abuse?

not to get too far off topic but i noticed the other day that it dosen't look like you can drill a 3500 block on the opposite side for a RWD starter.. do you still have a lx9 block sitting around to verify?

I could be wrong though...

[Joseph Upson]

Another note about the fwd main caps, 1,2 and 3 for the 3500 and 3900 are powder metal and 4 is cast iron. I hope I'm right in saying this but my interpretation is that the powder metal caps are stronger than the cast iron caps. The 3400 has the same combination except I'm not sure when this switch was made so all may not have that change, 2004 does.

[MidnightriderZ24]

doesnt rodney dickman sell a kit to drill 60* v6 blocks for a rwd trans? found it, you just need to click the tools section, its under 3.4 drill jig :
http://www.rodneydickman.com/retail_new.html