Well, the secret is out...

[ForcedFirebird]

Had about 1.5 hrs to fool around with it today between the son's soccer practice and dinner









Still have to figure out the WG mounting. The turbo bracket is temporary for welding it up after I get the other side situated. Sure wish I had more time for my own build hehe.

[Google Adsense]

[pocket-rocket]

Is that an M90 on the floor in front of your engine? I know your secret! Your actually putting an L67 in your car! Shame on you man.... Shame one you...

[RedZMonte]

you running external gates or internal? looks like you have enough clearance to run internal gaes. If your runing external gates thats cake, just add a flange at the collector.

S

[ForcedFirebird]

you running external gates or internal? looks like you have enough clearance to run internal gaes. If your runing external gates thats cake, just add a flange at the collector.

S

I'm going to do the same thing I did on Loner's car. Drill a 1 5/8" hole in the rear of the collector going straight back at the firewall, then connect to the gate and re-circulate to the downpipe. The down pipe is going to go straight out of the turbo to a 90* that will go between the #4 and #6 cyl down to the bottom of the oil pan - another 90* facing the rear of the car. Both sides are planned this way, and will Y into a single 3" mandrel exhaust pipe with dual 3.5" exits (Dynaomax muffler).

[Joseph Upson]

I'm going to do the same thing I did on Loner's car. Drill a 1 5/8" hole in the rear of the collector going straight back at the firewall, then connect to the gate and re-circulate to the downpipe. The down pipe is going to go straight out of the turbo to a 90* that will go between the #4 and #6 cyl down to the bottom of the oil pan - another 90* facing the rear of the car. Both sides are planned this way, and will Y into a single 3" mandrel exhaust pipe with dual 3.5" exits (Dynaomax muffler).

Consider a flexible extension in line with the wastegate downpipe, otherwise it can be a headache to get things to line up. I decided against open dump this time and found myself having to loosen every exhaust related bolt, inlet and outlet at the turbo in order to properly line up the wastegate flange after it was welded up and it still wasn't perfect. I went 18 ga on the exhaust from the turbo because it endures the least heat stress but at the same time is subject to the most warpage if excess welding heat is generated to soon.

God gave me a wonderful brain I must admit. When the angle of the dump pipe merge turned out to be to narrow for the MIG nozzle, I fabricated a pencil size nozzle out of some hollow aluminum tubing just the right diameter and used some tape to insulate the tip. It worked well enough for me to fill in the gap without a pile of metal reaching to a wider area.

[MidnightriderZ24]

that thing will tear an lt1 a new one haha. looks good man

[ForcedFirebird]

As always, thanks for the input Joseph. Even without the recirculation it's can sometimes be trying to get all the pipes to line up enough to bolt up.

Nifty idea on the MIG tip. Even if I don't use it now, that's going in the memory bank. On other headers I have built, I found using a flux core welder is actually good for a situation like that. As long as you don't let the wire touch on it's way in, the close quarters keeps the burned flux in the area well enough to maintain a good spark/heat.

What did you use to insulate the aluminum from the wire? If the wire happen to touch the inside of the aluminum, and the aluminum hit the part your welding, you would think that the wire might burn off inside the tube (actually that might be better than the wire being burnt to the pipe in an unwanted area).

[Joseph Upson]

As always, thanks for the input Joseph. Even without the recirculation it's can sometimes be trying to get all the pipes to line up enough to bolt up.

Nifty idea on the MIG tip. Even if I don't use it now, that's going in the memory bank. On other headers I have built, I found using a flux core welder is actually good for a situation like that. As long as you don't let the wire touch on it's way in, the close quarters keeps the burned flux in the area well enough to maintain a good spark/heat.

What did you use to insulate the aluminum from the wire? If the wire happen to touch the inside of the aluminum, and the aluminum hit the part your welding, you would think that the wire might burn off inside the tube (actually that might be better than the wire being burnt to the pipe in an unwanted area).

I should have taken a picture of it as I intended to since I was so proud. The tube was trimmed to just beyond the end of the wire feed tip so there was no chance the wire could touch it, however I did have to tape the end perimeter to avoid current transfer on touching the tubing, shielding gas flowed through without a problem but I taped the threaded end to prevent air from being scavenged in anyway.

It was so effective I plan to look into a copper version of it and some high temp insulation as the tape will catch fire after a few seconds of continuous welding from the heat.

I never studied up on soldering or welding, I just bought the equipment, read the instructions and learned at the same time I was building. I didn't know soldering was an option but coincidently I purchased the HO small block chevy 350 of soldering guns from harbor freight that cranks out 180 watts to replace the 30 w pinto soldering iron I was struggling with for my wiring harness and man there is no comparison.

I recall the instructions stating the tip gets somewhere over 1000 degrees in which case it makes sense to use on the exhaust to patch up pin holes in tight spots depending on the melting point of the solder.

I just don't like the Ssshhhh sound from the open wastegate dump contaminating the harmonic sound of the turbos which to anyone paying attention to detail can be distinguished as a twin turbo setup because the turbos can't maintain the exact same frequency or octave and the sound comes out the way duet vocals would.

I have a MIG welder (which spoiled me) and a plasma cutter, I guess a TIG welder is next.

[The_Raven]

I'd look at placing the WG under the brake master, looking at your pictures there looks to be enough space to place it there.

With how you have suggested, if I understand correctly, the WG will be above the rear primaries, and below the down pipe. This would be nice and compact, but an absolute PITA to assemble, and I'd also worry about all the heat in that area possibly compromising the diaphram in the WG.

Placing the WG under the brake master, would allow the diaphram end to be away from the heat, and allow the dump tube to flow back into the down pipe under the header.

Also instead of welding the dump pipe to the down pipe, you can use a slightly larger tube for a short length at the down pipe for a slip fit. This allows easier re&re, and also allows for heat expansion and contraction. I did this on a friends turbo Del Sol, and worked great.

[ForcedFirebird]

Thanks for the input. I'll proabably have to wait to get the downpipes started and everything mocked in the car to see.

Got a little more done today, creeping along...