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Thread: 200+ WHP?

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by PCGUY112887 View Post
    You will not get 260 WHP that way. Need to at least add headers/full open exhaust to that list.
    I wasn't talking about wheel horsepower, notice BHP, brake horse power.

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  3. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by PCGUY112887 View Post
    Totally agree... I thought I would be outflowing my air box because the opening is only in the very front of it and it's just a little slot, but I drilled holes in my airbox to test and my MAF showed that I was drawing in no extra air, just warmer air. I need a new air box bottom I use a K&N dropin however.
    Not to thread hijack, but would a fender well intake be better than the stock airbox? One thing I have noticed with the cone filter is that it murdered my gas mileage and I'm either going to run it into the fender or put the stock box back in.

    Dual Outlet Exhaust with Resonator Delete, Front STB, Rear STB, GMPP Trailing Arms

  4. #13
    that one guy
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    isnt bhp the same as whp? thats what i always assumed

    88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph

    mods - last updated 3/29/09
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  5. #14

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    Not the same thing at all. BHP is measured at the crank. That is, with the engine directly connected to a dyno. Wheel horsepower is measured at the wheels on a chassis dyno. The difference is the loss through the remainder of the drivetrain.


  6. #15
    What gain can be realized from just porting the intakes and going to headers? I am thinking that head work and a cam might have to wait for a while yet...

  7. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by carbon View Post
    What gain can be realized from just porting the intakes and going to headers? I am thinking that head work and a cam might have to wait for a while yet...
    a decent amount from what I've heard. headers are good for 20hp then ported intakes maybe 5hp and better throttle response.

  8. #17
    that one guy
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    ohhhh learn something new everyday. i didnt think there was an acual term for that other than hp at the crank lol

    88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph

    mods - last updated 3/29/09
    http://http://img.photobucket.com/al...xsmt/specs.jpg

  9. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewinder View Post
    Not to thread hijack, but would a fender well intake be better than the stock airbox? One thing I have noticed with the cone filter is that it murdered my gas mileage and I'm either going to run it into the fender or put the stock box back in.
    Fender is the best way to go... next to stock air box with K&N dropin. Your MPG may jump around some when you change up your intake, as it takes the car some time to relearn values before you get accurate MPG ratings.

    I also had no idea that BHP did not equal WHP... I thought that is how much power you had "at the brakes" so it was the same as WHP... just figured it was a region difference since the only time I see BHP is on foreign things.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepo...ake_horsepower
    Last edited by PCGUY112887; 02-26-2009 at 12:07 AM.
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    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
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  10. #19

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    why reaching for an Horspower figure?? If your modifing a 3400 it's for the Torque.
    Mike 60degree addict.
    Beretta 96 3500 - 14.981@ 93.32

    65MM thorttle body, Crank trigger 97 venture ECM and Dhp powrTuner

  11. #20

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    I (and all the machinists I know) have always used the term "Base Horsepower" when referring to the measurement at the crank as that is your starting point after which all other factors (drive train, rotating assemblies, brake drag, ect) diminish from that initial base reading. It appears now that most guys are using the term "Brake Horsepower" as dynometer is also technically known as a "friction brake".

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