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W-Body for Life!

Originally Posted by
pmaniac69
thast what I was thinking, same thing with the gen2 engines I believe also, I torqued them all down, rotated the motor a few times, and checked them again
I did this process about 3 times just to be safe
correct, gen 2 just require torqueing to 19 lb-ft.
i'm looking at the 94 3.4 instructions and it requires you to do it the old school way.
Last edited by robertisaar; 10-24-2009 at 08:31 PM.
1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E,
OBD1 Conversion...for now, future plans include a 3900, T04E-46 (Knock-Off) turbo (For the 3100, ~T61 for the 3900), and a F40.
OBD1.5 to OBD1 Conversion harnesses for sale, click
THIS link or PM me for more information.
Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)?
PM me!
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10-24-2009 08:29 PM
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Site Coder
That's because a 94 3.4 is a Gen 1...
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Originally Posted by
robertisaar
correct, gen 2 just require torqueing to 19 lb-ft.
i'm looking at the 94 3.4 instructions and it requires you to do it the old school way.
19? hope my valvetrain holds up, cause I think according to the book when I changed my motor I did them at 14
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W-Body for Life!

Originally Posted by
bszopi
That's because a 94 3.4 is a Gen 1...
i know, i'm just pointing out that even the latest Gen 1 motors didn't catch up to the Gen 2 in that respect.
pmaniac69: alldata says 19. where did you read your number from?
1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E,
OBD1 Conversion...for now, future plans include a 3900, T04E-46 (Knock-Off) turbo (For the 3100, ~T61 for the 3900), and a F40.
OBD1.5 to OBD1 Conversion harnesses for sale, click
THIS link or PM me for more information.
Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)?
PM me!
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chilton 
I'll go double check it, maybe I am thinking of something else
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Update...
Well I pulled the intakes...ughhh.. and found the lifter on #3 Exhaust wasn't pumped up so I've replaced it along with roller rocker arms from a 96 3.4 from pull-apart. The engine now runs great. Nice and smooth. Lots of pep for a 3.1. I appreciate all of the responses that I received from this forum. This site has been a great help to me. Once again, Thanks. I really appreciate the information.
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"Yes... I AM IRONMAN..."

Originally Posted by
betterthanyou
Well I was going to say bent valve but you have compression on all cylinders so thats a good sign. Bringing each piston to TDC is not the correct way to adjust the valves. The correct way is to rotate the engine and watch the rocker arms. When the exhaust begins to open adjust the intake valve and when the intake valve fully opens and then closes slightly adjust the exhaust valve. I would also add 1 full turn after zero lash. When you replaced the cam please tell me you used new lifters.
Are you saying that you replaced the cam during all of this? If you did...Please tell me you coated the lifter "feet" with either Moly-D or some other type of Engine Assembly Lube and added some Cam Conditioner to your engne oil...and also that immediately after the first start of the engine, that you raised it right up to 1,500-2000 RPMS for about 20-25 Minutes to properly condition your new Cam's Lobes? (and then immediately afterward. you changed the Moly-D clogged Oil Filter and put in a fresh one with some HQ motor oil). If not... there is always a chance that the lobe under the old lifter that is "ticking" was damaged ...or wiped...
EDIT: Ooops...Roller Rockers...Damn... My Bad... Sorry about that..(Whew!)
Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 10-30-2009 at 10:40 PM.
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I used pre-lube greese and everything and also primed a new oil pump with my drill. On initial start, I used 5w/30 autozone branded oil with an AC Delco filter. The engine was run around 2500 RPM for about 10 minutes (with the lifter ticking). I changed the oil with Castrol Full Synthetic 5/30 again with a new AC Delco filter after 2 hours of runtime. Hope this was right. The engine sounds good. Thanks.
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6 > 1

Originally Posted by
60dgrzbelow0
Are you saying that you replaced the cam during all of this? If you did...Please tell me you coated the lifter "feet" with either Moly-D or some other type of Engine Assembly Lube and added some Cam Conditioner to your engne oil...and also that immediately after the first start of the engine, that you raised it right up to 1,500-2000 RPMS for about 20-25 Minutes to properly condition your new Cam's Lobes? (and then immediately afterward. you changed the Moly-D clogged Oil Filter and put in a fresh one with some HQ motor oil). If not... there is always a chance that the lobe under the old lifter that is "ticking" was damaged ...or wiped...
EDIT: Ooops...Roller Rockers...Damn... My Bad... Sorry about that..(Whew!)
Roller engines don't need that break in for the cam.. or special oil
you just cote the cam in assembly lube and the rollers on the lifters (which have been soaking in oil) and slap it all together with some lube on the pushrod ends and the rocker tips and fire it up.
1989 Camaro RS; Cammed 3500 swap, 45mm ITB's, Street/Strip Kitted 700R4, 3500 stall, Megashifter, 3.73 posi, EQ- LT headers, 3" Hooker Supercomp exhaust, etc...
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There is NOTHING more nail biting to me than the re-start of a fresh build... hahhaa.. I've gone through it twice now, and my hart has gone to my throat both times.