3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

[Superdave]

Ok I just thought i read that a new one had to be placed there but if I can get away with using the old and using a diferent hose then im ok with that. I think I will understand the placement of the parts much better once the engine is in the car. Pics on the internet are one thing but its always better to see it in person.

I used the BCC unit, worked great.

I had the V8 radiator in mine, not sure what the upper hose was from but the lower was from a 3.4 4th gen.

Hopefully this pic auto-resizes...

[fasteddi]

new engine 4.jpgnew engine 2.jpgDid you have to just cut the upper lip of the timing cover? I started to fit some things together while i await the pushrods and noticed that the lower intake will not sit down from the timing cover but didnt wana start hacking things up till i was sure.

[Canyonero]

Yep, chop it off.

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[fasteddi]

Thanks for the conformation. I assumed i had to but you can never be to careful when ya never have done this before.

[Guest]

When in doubt, cut it out...

[fasteddi]

Sounds good to me. So i just have to get the intake to fit on, wait for the push-rods, but in the mean time i'm tossing in the engine this weekend so i can start building up the drivers side header and figuring out how to get my accessory to fit and so forth. Should be interesting along with the DIS. Ill be honest been putting off the whole dis thing because of the ring I either have to make or notch out that pulley...that is new territory for me.

Too bad its not as easy as last years build. (the pic attatched) that was a cake walk.

[Superdave]

Yep, chop it off then you'll have to grind it down a little bit more to make sure you have enough clearance for the intake to seat when you torque it down.

[fasteddi]

Made some progress fitting up some of the pipe so I can make up the drivers header.



new engine 17.jpg

[fasteddi]

Some updated pics.

Build is going well. I still need to get a different throttle cable and get the radiator situated with a 2.8L fobody one for the intake of the rad on the pass side. But else then that its just alot of little things that im working on.

Still aiming to get this puppy going by april/early may.

[Maverick H1L]

FYI, my throttle cable is from a mid-90s Grand Am. Cavaliers of the same years also seem to have a throttle cable that will work, but I couldn't get that cable out of the car (broke it trying to get it out of the firewall ). You will need to modify the cable bracket a bit to get the cable end to mount to the throttle lever on the throttle body (the end is different).

:edit: Also, get rid of the stock 3x00 FPR and fuel line fittings. You're going to need to get the 6AN fittings from TCE and you will definitely want an adjustable FPR for the boost. I have my FPR mounted to the firewall behind the engine, about where the factory distributor was. My fuel rail is also oriented with the fuel hose fittings at the back of the engine (which makes getting a gauge on the pressure port pretty difficult without a 90* fitting due to the TB mounting ears).

You can use the factory fuel injector harness provided you point the injectors with the connectors towards the middle of the engine. The harness will just barely make it, and you can use the factory retainer on the front fuel rail bolt to hold the harness in place.

I strongly recommend running the wire for the coolant temp gauge with the CTS wires and running a 3-wire late model CTS. What I did was to get a 3/8 NPT plug for the factory 3x00 CTS mount by the pass side valve cover, remove the coolant pipe for the heater core, and tapping the remaining hole in the intake (under the TB neck) for the CTS.

[Guest]

I used a stock 3100 FPR on my Franken60 years ago, successfully. When I had my truck on the dyno I had a friend watch the fuel pressure (perma-mounted gauge on the rail), and he informed me that the fuel pressure rose with boost pressure. I initially used an MSD FPR, but found the stock FPR worked better. I did modify it to be adjustable, but ended up putting it right back to 44.5 PSIG base pressure anyway.

As far as coolant system and sensors go. I tapped the hole in the thermostat housing that originally was the heater core return in the transverse application, for 1/2" NPT, then used a 1/2" to 3/8" NPT bushing for the CTS. I then returned the heater core to tube that runs under the intake. I did this mostly because it made the heater core hoses really short, since that tube ends up near the heater core itself.

I used the original throttle cable for an S-10 in my truck, but had to swap throttle body arms with one from a TBI S-10 and made my own throttle cable bracket. I went a better way in my Datsun (using a 3400 throttle body), where I was able to use a stock throttle cable bracket because I used a mid '90s Buick throttle cable. I don't recall the exact model, but the cable is quite long and works well in longitudinally mounted situations. It's almost too long for my straight 6 engine in my Datsun.

You can see the throttle cable in the following picture, it exits the firewall, passes between the two reservoirs on the master cylinder runs along the fender and then turns back into the throttle body, using a standard car throttle cable bracket. It will work equally as well with a 660 mounted longitudinally. Pedal feel is nice, I'm also using a progressive throttle cam, which makes driving nice.

[ForcedFirebird]

The 3.4 DOHC GP cable is also very long. Used it in a Camaro and like Raven said, was almost too long.

[caffeine]

I think I got mine from an Oldsmobile intrigue

[robertisaar]

When I had my truck on the dyno I had a friend watch the fuel pressure (perma-mounted gauge on the rail), and he informed me that the fuel pressure rose with boost pressure.

not surprising. a spring loaded diaphragm operating correctly SHOULD raise fuel pressure at a 1:1 ratio with boost until the spring starts acting funny due to extending too far and fuel pressure failing to rise any further(or raising too slow in reference to manifold pressure).

[fasteddi]

I will recheck the fuel pressure as I do have a afpr with a reliable gauge. I used it before but once I realized that the stock FPR on the 3.1L worked correctly and rose with boost and my injector well in check at 43.5psi base, I took the AFPR off just to keep the clutter down in the engine bay.

Ok im going junk yard hunting this sunday and I plan to look for a different radiator and it that doesn't happen then Ill just have to buy a new one with the inlet on the pass side.

Ill look for T cables from a intrigue/grand am and such, ill measure them to make sure they are long enough. One thing I haven't looked at and need to is the length of my TV cable. I think it should be long enough but I do need to double check that.