3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

[Maverick H1L]

IDK for sure if AZ can test it. Don't even bother asking them how much for a replacement module. Unless you want to pay as much for it as you did your turbocharger . IDK why they're so ridiculously priced...

[Superdave]

AZ can test it, have them run it at least twice so it gets nice and warm.


Have you tried to datalog the ECM to see if it's reporting RPM during cranking? That will tell you real quick if the ICM is passing the ref pulse to the ECM.

[fasteddi]

Ok I plan to work on it tommorow after work for a few minuets. I dont recall seeing a RPM on the datalogg or anything resembling that the ICM was talking to the ecm. But i cant say for certain. I will make sure to look at all those thigns tommorow. Its mind boggling and truly is making me go nuts. Ill see if AZ can test it and if its shot look to get a used on. I figured the ICM was outragously priced.

[Guest]

Have you tried checking for spark with the 6 pin connector unplugged?

If there is a wiring issue in this harness, it's possible that the "advance" and dwell is being pulled low and not allowing spark to happen.

Check for spark with only the power and CPS connectors attached. If you get spark then (which you should), then your problem is in your wiring between the ICM and the ECM.

I still don't like the way your trigger wheel looks. The gap between the 1/4 notch and the sync notch looks too wide to me, or that the notches are not wide enough. If the CPS/ICM doesn't get enough time between edges, it will not see the notches, and therefore will not create a spark event.

For reference, this is what my wheel looks like on my Datsun (also used it on my Franken60 12 or so years ago, holy Sh*t that's been a long time).

[fasteddi]

Hopefully tonight after work i get time to work on the car.

The notches are placed right but are about 3/16th wide. Mabey that is my issue. I see that the sensor sees the notches as its pulses from .3 Vts AC to .8xx ish but mabey the durration is not enough between them. I can widen them up. I do see that yours look wider them mine by quite a bit. How wide are yours? 1/4, 5/16"?

I have tried it without the 6 plug connector and still no go. No reference to the ecm either when the plug is connected.

[Guest]

I'll have to get you some measurements later.

[fasteddi]

I worked on it for 2 more hrs. No luck. I measured the notches and a fellow hybrid guy said 1/4 inch wide and 3/16 deep worked. I widened mine up and they look more like yours now at the 1/4 sync notch but still no luck. Im at my witts end.

I datalogged and no reference also.

Thinking that this hybrid idea was a bad one. Ive spent a good 10 hrs just trying to get it to spark.

When measuring the coil terminals is there suppose to be 12vdc at both terminals If i took off the coil pack itself? Just wanted to make sure that is normal.

[Guest]

No, there should be 12V at only one terminal (per coil) IIRC, that is with all off the coils removed. You may get 12V on both terminals if you remove only one coil at a time.

A screw it, I'll go and test on my car. I'll post results in a bit.

[fasteddi]

Thank! Im away from the car or id go back out and try.

[Guest]

I just tested the ICM on my car, tested two actually, and I think one might be bad now. lol.

Anyway, you should be getting 12V on only one terminal per coil. Oddly (and I discovered this back when I was testing a COP set-up), one of the coils has the 12V pin opposite the other two.

So the pattern is this:
(12V and ground plug) + - - + - + (CPS plug).

So if you are getting 12V on both terminals for each coil, you have one of a couple things happening:
A) your ground is not good, either from the coil to the engine block, or from the engine block to the battery/chassis.
B) your ICM is shot.

Hopefully if it is a poor ground it hasn't damaged the ICM.

[fasteddi]

I appreciate the help!! Big time!! I will go over the grounds on the car asap and hopefully it didnt ruin the icm either.

I only took off the first coil pack but it was definitly + +

At least i finally found something that is wrong insted of just chaseing my tail even though a ground loss can make me do the same....lol

[Guest]

Just for reference, the 2nd ICM that I believe might be bad, had the same pattern (only 1 terminal per coil with 12V), until I got to the third coil, nearest the CPS plug, and that had 12V on both. The only connection I had to this ICM was the power plug FWIW. I didn't try swapping it in place of the one that is on the car and working to verify functionality. It was just a spare I had in my cabinet, to use for testing. It was because I found the one coil to have 12V on both terminals that I decided to actually remove the coils from the ICM in the car.

So you are zeroing in on the problem now.

[fasteddi]

Ok thank you for the help. Ill let you know what I find out.

[fasteddi]

Well only had a few minuets to look over the wiring and here's the numbers i have. less then .5 Ohm from bat to driver head, bat to block, bat to pass head. Same for both heads to chassis and the battery to chassis. I check a few time on each and they all looked good. I even checked from the plug harness on the coil to the head, block, chassis, and battery.

On a stock thirdgen camaro there is a red/pink wire and a white wire going to the coil. Currently I only used the red for the +12 and then used a ground that I ran myself for the - since the white wire that was there was for the tach output. There is nothing wrong with using that method is there? Although I will add I was a idiot when i first tried to fire the car and had that tach wire(white) connected as the ground. I know that is wrong now but it is what it is. That may be the reason why its giving me issues.

Hopefully i can get out to a j yard and find a few icms and see if that icm is dead either because i toasted it or it went bad for some other reason.

Thoughts??? Thanks again!

[Guest]

Yes, using the original ignition wire and a dedicated ground connection is fine. Grounding the tach wire will not cause an issue, as long as it's just for the tach (which it should be).

I would try replacing the ICM at this point and see how that goes.

If you could take some detail pictures of the ignition system, I might be able to spot something if there is something out out pf place, but at this point I would do as you propose and replace the ICM, then go from there.

Do you have access to an oscilloscope?