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BLOWN 95 3.4l dohc Monte help please

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  • BLOWN 95 3.4l dohc Monte help please

    Well she's finally gave in on me today.. had it for 4 years now and it's been threw hell and back a dozen times. I have drove the absolute dog shit out of this car and all my friends give me shit on how it's lasted this long. Well I'm not junking it and not selling it. Don't care how long it takes and don't have much money but I can get little by little. I'm going need a lot of help on complete engine rebuild from top to bottom. I'm aware I'll need machine help which I'll pay to get that stuff done. But if anyone could go ahead start dropping any links with info on rebuilding it, any videos you know of, any advice, just anything that would help me get this baby back alive again. It would be much appreciated thanks. Ty

  • #2
    Complete engine rebuilf? How about starting by describing WHAT EXACTLY HAPPENED?

    Do you have a rod knock? Hole in the block? Timing belt problem? No compression in one or more holes? No oil pressure? Something else? What are the symptoms?

    I've valve-jobbed a couple pair of heads. Couldn't be easier. The intake valves need almost nothing, clean-up with .002 or less cut off. The exhaust valves look like crap, need .005 taken out. Replacement valves aren't as concentric as the originals, which really stinks. All four heads I dicked-with needed NO seat-cutting at all. Looked beautiful. Had to do some touch-up on two exhaust seats using a valve grinding stone--but I turned it by hand. That's how nearly-perfect they were.

    All the heads were slightly warped. I had the head gasket surface cut 0.015 on all of them.

    Depending on the model year and VIN number, you may or may not need to modify the camshafts for oil routing. Was a service bulletin for the LQ1 that applies up to '95 for certain vehicles. Details used to be at the following link, but I suspect all that got wiped-out during the upgrade. I get nothing at the former web address:

    http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthre...ick-%28cold%29

    I'd expect the bottom-end to be fairly rugged; although of course anything can happen; and the pistons are cast not forged.
    Last edited by Schurkey; 10-27-2016, 08:02 PM.
    ^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Schurkey View Post
      Complete engine rebuilf? How about starting by describing WHAT EXACTLY HAPPENED?

      Do you have a rod knock? Hole in the block? Timing belt problem? No compression in one or more holes? No oil pressure? Something else? What are the symptoms?

      I've valve-jobbed a couple pair of heads. Couldn't be easier. The intake valves need almost nothing, clean-up with .002 or less cut off. The exhaust valves look like crap, need .005 taken out. Replacement valves aren't as concentric as the originals, which really stinks. All four heads I dicked-with needed NO seat-cutting at all. Looked beautiful. Had to do some touch-up on two exhaust seats using a valve grinding stone--but I turned it by hand. That's how nearly-perfect they were.

      All the heads were slightly warped. I had the head gasket surface cut 0.015 on all of them.

      Depending on the model year and VIN number, you may or may not need to modify the camshafts for oil routing. Was a service bulletin for the LQ1 that applies up to '95 for certain vehicles. Details used to be at the following link, but I suspect all that got wiped-out during the upgrade. I get nothing at the former web address:

      http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthre...ick-%28cold%29

      I'd expect the bottom-end to be fairly rugged; although of course anything can happen; and the pistons are cast not forged.
      Well to start things off I had all the top end gaskets redone and the oil distibutor pump gasket or whatever it's called that's notorious for pouring oil out the back of the engine. Because it was and that fixed it. Then apparently the torque converter bolts came loose and we're rattling. Sounded like a rod was about to shoot threw the block. The shop tightened the bolts and it fixed the noise. Was fine for few months then it just started again so I took it to the shop hoping it's the torque converter bolts again. Well it wasn't. Knock was still there and was different then before. And I also started losing power taking off. Like it was straight missing out. Then I was driving to get my mom and it started knocking LOUD and this screeching noise with the knock. Very bad sound. I was right by the shop so I stopped in and it had no power at this point and was way louder. The mechanic told me it's definitely fucked but not sure what Isn't happy in there. Could be a spun bearing, rocker arm, piston, but I took it to my brothers house litterally 1minute down the road from the shop and parked it. Didn't think it was going to make it that long. So it never actually blew on me so there might be some saveable parts in the motor still , going to get it towed home.

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      • #4
        If you have an Instagram I recorded what it was doing when I left the shop, you can hear it in the video it's pretty bad , thebird_ is my name if you want to hear it

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        • #5
          Pretty sure it won't turn out to be a rocker arm.

          Consider running the engine with the serpentine belt removed. If the knock/screech is in the alternator or A/C compressor, it'll be gone when you remove the belt. Don't run too long, as you'll have no water pump. 30 seconds would be fine, and plenty long enough to find out if it's engine knock or accessory knock.
          ^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert

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          • #6
            Does anyone have any idea where you can find a video / how to/ book of any sort that's specifically on the 3.4 dohc ?

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            • #7
              have you tried the GM service manual for the car/engine?
              91 LQ1 GP GT

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