Engine heater for 96 Monte Z34

[DFresh]

Looks like it got a bit too cold for my Monte here in Kansas, -4 degrees. Can't get it to start now. It turns over and the battery's only a few years old. I can hear it firing a little, but just won't start. Had the same problem a couple years ago and after doin all kinds of checking it just started after being in the garage a few days and gettin warmed up a little I guess. I was thinking of getting some type of engine heater. Has anyone ever installed or used any kind of heater on the 3.4? Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get it started? Can't get in the garage cause another dead car's in there.

[z34phoenix]

RE: Engine heater for 96 Monte Z34

have you ever changed the fuel filter? what weight oil you running? maybe spray some starting fluid into the intake by way of a vac line on the TB. i would also say jump it from another running car. the battery may, be not putting enough amps to get her going.

[DFresh]

RE: Engine heater for 96 Monte Z34

I know the fuel filter does need to be changed. Runnin 5W-30 oil I just changed a few days ago. I'll give the jump a try from another car and then try the starting fluid if that doesn't work. Thanks

[series8217]

Even if you manage to start your car on 5W-30 in that terribly cold weather, you better not take it over 2 grand until the oil is warmed up; the pump is going to have a very hard time flowing any oil.

Use 0W-30. You can only find this weight as a synthetic but it is the best you can do for your motor. Even in the summer 0W-30 is too thick on a "cold" startup as far as flow properties go.
Here is why: Say pressure relief on the oil pump opens at like 90 psi. I've seen 80 psi at 40 degrees at cold idle. That means spinning the motor just a little faster gets it to 90 psi. Beyond 90 psi it doesnt matter how fast you spin the oil pump, it will not flow any more oil, just send it back to the pan. This means you dont get the oil you need at high RPM, or even moderate RPM when its that cold.
A block heater would be a very very nice thing to have.

[Jakemetz63]

Use some stratigically placed 100 watt lightbulbs, seriously. Lightbulbs are a very poor lighter, but a very good heater.

[series8217]

Use some stratigically placed 100 watt lightbulbs, seriously. Lightbulbs are a very poor lighter, but a very good heater.

Cool idea.
Some of those 500 watt incandescent work lamps would probably work great too. Lots of IR output.

[z34phoenix]

lighter fluid works good too!!! and dont forget the thermite!!!

[Juglenaut]

maybe spray some starting fluid into the intake by way of a vac line on the TB

Hold on, stop do not spary that...



Xw30 oil are all 30 weight oil. Most 0w30 oils lose some viscocity at engine operational temps. 0w30 oils only flow a fraction of an amount better at low temps over 5w30. The difference is only a few 10ths of a CST.

Something else has to be wrong as I have had very few problems starting my cars here in SD.

[series8217]

Xw30 oil are all 30 weight oil. Most 0w30 oils lose some viscocity at engine operational temps. 0w30 oils only flow a fraction of an amount better at low temps over 5w30. The difference is only a few 10ths of a CST.
.

Yes, XW30 are all 30 weight oil. As is 0w30. It doesnt lose some viscosity at engine operational temps compared to 5W30 or 10W30.. they are all the same at 212 degrees. If it was less viscous at 200 deg than 5W30 then it would be 5W20 or 5W25 of course!
There is a range of tolerance for 30 weight oil. Its not enough to matter. 30 is generally a little thicker than necessary for a warm engine as it is. Wont hurt to have a bit more or less flow. Its not in the range where it makes a practical difference, hence it not changing the rating.
The difference between 0W and 5W may be small at the 50 degrees or so but at -4 he really needs the thinner stuff. 5W is noticeably thicker at that temperature compared to 0W.

[Juglenaut]

It doesnt lose some viscosity at engine operational temps

On the contrary many 0W brands do lose a few 10ths over 5W so why use it. the CST ratings between them are very minimal even below zero. Even then you still want to mantain viscosity because the lower the viscosity, the less the load the oil can support at the bearing on the crankshaft. Also depends on the viscosity index of a oil, there mat be a point where a cridical point may be reached. In any climate these engines are not designed for 0W.

It gets to 20 below around here and have little problems sticking to 5W.

[DreX]

You can get propane heaters on summit. Basically its like a camping propane lights but bigger. They radiate a lot of heat, are designed for garages. Buy a couple of them and push your car in the garage. I was thinking to get a set of them for a "oven paint" idea. So I can paint the car my self but my wife will be all over me if try to pull that stunt. LOL You never have to get your wife way too angry, remember you sleep with her..... LOL

Dre

[1988GTU]

Keep a light bulb lit under the oil pan.







lol

[corning_d3]

My car likes my reddi-heater and modified stovepipe exhaust. I saw one being used at a small airport to warm small airplane engines.

[Lyle's GTP]

OK, here goes. The difference between 5w30 and 0w30 on cold starts is tramendous. Don't let anybody tell you otherwise. Something is not right with your car. Maybe a moisture build up is causing something to stick. I've cold started my car down to minus 40 degrees with 5w30. It didn't like it, but it ran on it's own. I've switched my car over to 0w30 since then and it starts WAY better cold now.

If it says '30' on the jug it's good enough for me. I'm not going to nit-pick. Because I ran 5w50 for over a year and noticed no difference between it and the 5w30.

Now, as for engine heaters. There are a few types you can use. Frost-plug style, Circulating (rad or heater hose) and Oil pan.

Frost-plug - Most common, and cheapest. Work fine but not the best. Simply because it is a localised heating and doesn't circulate.

Circulating (rad) - Installs in-line, in your lower rad hose and "perkulates" the heated coolant through your engine. More money but alot better and probably the easiest to install.

Circulating (heater hose) - About the same price as the rad design. Same idea as the rad style but actually has a hose that sucks form the bottom of the engine and then dumps into your upper heater hose. I think that this is the best because it bypasses your rad completely.

Oil Pan heater - Simply adhears to the bottom of your oil pan and heats your engine from the bottom up. About the same cost as the circulating heaters.

All of these styles come in alot of different wattages. For a V-6, 600-1000 watts will be plenty.

Oh, You can also get battery warmers aswell. They are just a heating pad that fits around your battery. Keeps it nice and toasty.

I'm personaly going to install a circulating heater and an oil pan heater when I rebuild my engine.

Hope this helps

Lyle

[pwmin]

its probably not the oil. something else is wrong. my gp never has any problems starting at below 0 temp's with 1030 oil even with my remote start. it has a stupid block heater that i never use. i want to take it out so it doesnt start leaking like they always do.