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3.4L DOHC, runs fine, then on occasion won't start

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  • 3.4L DOHC, runs fine, then on occasion won't start

    Ok here is the deal. I have a 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme with a 97 3.4L LQ1 crate motor in it. Put the new motor in about 6 years ago and 50k on it.

    I was driving last monday, and it hesitated a couple of times as I accelerated across a road and then about 5 seconds later died. I couldn't get it restarted, it seemed like it was spinning the motor but no signs of life. While waiting for the tow truck, I managed to get it started after swapping out the ICM & coil packs (I have an extra, it used to be a problem in this car), checking all the fuses, swaping the relays between the fans and ECM etc. Seemed to me like it just decided to start after 30 or 40 minutes. Drove it back to work, then drove it home that night. I took the ICM and coils to autozone, and they declared the icm bad, and the coils good. And I thought good, that is that.

    Tuesday was meet the teacher night, and after driving to work, and then about 15 minutes over to a Wendy's before the MT night. When I went to leave at 8:30.. no go.. Cranked wierd like it was trying to fire, but sometimes more like a mis-fire. Swapped ICM and Coils.. nothing but spinning. Called my wife and she drove me home, and dropped me off early the next day and I played with it... put the ICM and coils that were on it back.. just cranked. Checked to see if there was fuel, sprayed it all over. Checked the fuses and the wires at the ICM.. looked good. Then once again it started. Went in cleaned up, taught all day, drove it to a shop near my house.

    They looked at it Wed, Thurs, Fri and supposedly called me late friday to say that they thought it was something in the wiring harness causing a mis-fire, but they also said that from camshaft sensor should be hooked up. The 92 has 1, the 96-97 two becuase it is OBDII. I still have the original computer, so I don't use that sensor. So I go late Saturday morning over there, my wife drops me off and I go out to the car and it won't start. Supposedly it hadn't started since I dropped it. Work on it for about 2 hours, checked the wires on the ICM (can't really see much of the one from the CKP), checked the wires out of the computer and fuse area. Later I bought a new Volt meter (my old one was malfunctioning), saw the right power to the ICM, signal from the CKP, but also did an ohm test on the CKP and it read 984, and was supposed to be between 300-900. Charged the car battery, becuase it didn't want to spin well... after about 10 or 12 cranks it fired off and stalled, a couple more times and it ran... threw the tools in the car and van and drove it home.

    Sunday I tried to replace the CKP, and just don't have a long enough 10mm to get in there with my big hand. My pastor suggested his mechanic so I drove it over this morning (Mon). 3 times while driving it sputtered: turning right and accelerating medium light, from a stop light in 1st gear, and getting ready to accelerate from a turn onto the feeder onto the freeway (which was a right but the turn was completed). It would hesitiate like there was 0 power then catch.

    Mechanic replaced the CKP, started and ran great. Then on another test drive this afternoon, the mechanic drove down to the local gas station/convience store, and it wouldn't restart, sounded like it was mis-firing when it tried to start.

    What can this be? Shorted wires? if so why does it run well sometimes and then completely not start, and no blown fuses? 24x sensor? I was reading on line that it couldn't cause a no-start, but just running bad. I was reminded by a friend that it can't be a Camshaft position sensor.. it isn't hooked up in OBD, and nothing has been connected to it.

    Ideas? Thanks for your help
    Last edited by Scott205; 09-17-2012, 11:22 PM.
    2014 Chevy Cruise LT
    2000 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Motorcycle

  • #2
    WHERE are you checking that the fuel "sprayed all over"? The schrader valve service port? Maybe tells you that the fuel pump is working, it does NOT tell you that the injectors are spraying.

    What is the fuel pressure when running? My '92 just went through a spasm of misfire, poor power, stalling--all of it intermittent. I finally got a fuel pressure gauge on the port WHILE THE CAR WAS ACTING UP. 30 psi, sometimes less. When the engine was running "good" the pressure was 37--40, which is still too low.
    What is the cranking compression of all six cylinders?
    Are the spark plugs fouled or worn?
    What does the scan tool show for RPM during cranking?
    ^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert

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    • #3
      Sprayed all over my hand.. I had checked the injectors before when it was having issues and it was getting a pulse..

      I am 99% sure that it is the wiring going from the CKP to the ICM. (That is assuming they actually did replace the CKP). Getting a OHM reading now of 1098... The mechanic had found a short in the wire right near the plug on the ICM and put in butt connectors... ran fine for 3 days.. Friday is cut out three times in the morning and then coming home it stalled 10-13 times... the 3rd or 4th time it stopped and wouldn't start, i played with the wire from the ICM to CKP and it started... then kept restarting first try almost every time going home.. That is a 20-21yo harness that goes by the exhaust manifold and i guess my heater core valve is malfunctioning becuase that pipe was hot too (It was a cool 85 today).
      2014 Chevy Cruise LT
      2000 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Motorcycle

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Scott205 View Post
        The mechanic had found a short in the wire right near the plug on the ICM and put in butt connectors
        Plain old crimp-style butt connectors? Not soldered and heat-shrinked?

        That's not a "mechanic", that's a butcher. If you paid him, you were cheated.

        Originally posted by Scott205 View Post
        my heater core valve is malfunctioning becuase that pipe was hot too (It was a cool 85 today).
        WHAT heater core valve? Heater core is hot all the time.
        ^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Schurkey View Post
          Plain old crimp-style butt connectors? Not soldered and heat-shrinked?

          That's not a "mechanic", that's a butcher.
          Agreed. That wire needs twists through the whole length of it to reject interference to maintain a good signal for the ICM, just like Cat5 network wire.
          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
          91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
          92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
          94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
          Originally posted by Jay Leno
          Tires are cheap clutches...

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          • #6
            I am pretty sure that it has another place down near the exhaust or near the wire bundles that has a bad spot. I played with it Saturday and have the loose end of the wire at the top and it is running good.

            I am going to send the mechanic to find one in the junkyard if GM doesn't sell them anymore to have it replaced, then take this one apart and solder in new wiring for a backup.

            By the way, the inference they are worried about from the signal should be negligible assuming proper shielding was used, after all it is an A/C voltage signal, the biggest interference is actually the other wire in the twist.. twisting it is supposed to cancel the 90 degree magnetic interference, but at low voltage, that seems excessive to me.. new it probably matters less than 2%, if they simply shielded it with aluminium foil like cable/antenna wire there wouldn't be any.
            2014 Chevy Cruise LT
            2000 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Motorcycle

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            • #7
              But they don't shield it. If you think it's only 2% necessary try untwisting it and see how she runs. I doubt GM DIS/HEI plays nice as far as quiet EMI goes.

              Cat5 is low voltage too...

              Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
              Last edited by pocket-rocket; 09-24-2012, 02:29 PM. Reason: Fixed "smart" phone typo...
              -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
              91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
              92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
              94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
              Originally posted by Jay Leno
              Tires are cheap clutches...

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
                But they don't shield it. If you think it's only 2% necessary try untwisting it and see how she runs. I doubt GM DIS/HEI plays nice as far as quiet EMI goes.

                Cat5 is low voltage too...

                Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
                Actually the whole reason they came up with Cat5 was to twist it.. and Cat5e (which is pretty much industry standard) is twisted differently. The old 100baseT was not twisted or shielded, and it works very well until you go over a 100 speed.. gigabit cables (Cat6). That being said.. you could use two Coaxial cables to do the job and still have Cat5e or better quality. The big differnce being that your two coax cables will be much much larger. Most of the ethernet cable has evolved simply to save money in cable prices (much development before fiber optics were cheap) and in space savings.

                That all beind said, I purchased a new Harness from GM Parts online today... I figure it isn't worth the trouble of replacing that thing again.. first one got 20 years.. maybe the second one will get 5-10.

                Scott
                2014 Chevy Cruise LT
                2000 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Motorcycle

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