Definately not a V motor... My Rebuild.

[ericjon262]

Wow I didn't post it, it's in my signature but my tune was 219/275 he got it to 255/310 after leaning it out and messing with the timing a bit.

nice numbers, sounds like hella fun!

[3400-95-Modified]

Well I was getting a bit sick of the Clutchmaster Clutch I had in there... When it was up to operating temp if you were on any sort of incline and tried to release the clutch like a normal human being, it would chatter so hard you could hear the exhaust hitting the cross member... I would have to slip it to the point of smelling clutch to get it to engage smoothly, this is after 5k of break in. Now keep in mind here, this is a FX100 which is supposed to be like stock engagement. It's a full face organic material clutch.

I got conformation I could send it back for evaluation so I figured while I have it out I will fix my third gear problem where it pops out when you are just lightly driving around on and off the gas.

So on to the trans rebuild LOL..

Got some parts to clean.



Reference photo...



Bad third/fourth gear sleeve...


Bad 3rd/4th fork.

[3400-95-Modified]

Here are some pics of the Clutches... Stock with 50k on it first... then the 5k Clutch Master clutch.





Overall Pressure Plate side



Pressure plate side



Flywheel side



Clutchmaster Overall pic pressure plate side



ClutchMaster Pressure Plate side



Clutchmaster Flywheel side



Clutchmaster Pressure plate

[3400-95-Modified]

Sept 16th update:

Input shaft all taken apart...



The ring on this is what someone said I need to replace but I cant figure out how I'm supposed to press that off... There is like no space to get in there with a bearing separator... I hope it's not part of 3rd gear because to replace that I need to buy 3rd and 4th drive gears and the 3/4rd driven gear since that is one part.






I'm hoping when the sleeve/hub assy arrives that the teeth on the sleeve look like they are in significantly better condition as to what I had that way I can really point the finger at that and the fork for why it would pop out of third.

Sept 18th update:

Well leaning toward that part being laser welded to the gear, or friction welded... so It's not getting replaced. The 3rd/4th set I would need to replace it is over $200 for the drive and driven gears and then on top of that I would need to replace more bearings on the driven shaft. I'll leave it alone and hope for the best with the new hub/sleeve syncro and shift fork going in for 3rd.

Got an update that the "clutch material was bad" and they are repairing it and sending it back... Crossing my fingers and hoping for the best.

Hard to believe this small pile is $200 worth of parts and I'm waiting on one syncro set which is over $100 alone!...

[3400-95-Modified]

Got the clutch back yesterday. Whole thing looks brand new so I'm crossing my fingers. Having the flywheel re-surfaced to spec and hopefully it works this time.

Still waiting on the 3rd syncro set to show up and then will hopefully have time to assemble next week.

[3400-95-Modified]

Got the clutch back yesterday. Whole thing looks brand new so I'm crossing my fingers. Having the flywheel re-surfaced to spec and hopefully it works this time.

Still waiting on the 3rd syncro set to show up and then will hopefully have time to assemble next week.

Got everything back together Thursday of last week... Took it for a test drive all seemed well except the clutch was still very hard to engage... still shaking the engine/chattering. SO I went to take it to work Friday AM and realized it had no 5th gear...

After some thinking I determined I put the Baulk levers for 5th in backwards so it was locking out 5th and not Reverse when moving. Pulled the transfer case and tail shaft off Friday night and then removed the input nut and fixed the levers, they were in fact backwards. Put it all back together and then buttoned up the details Sat AM.

Back on the road now and I put in a stiffer trans mount to hopefully lessen the amount of movement of the engine when the clutch skips so I can lessen any possible damage elsewhere. Clutch Master's called me and told me to drive it for about 500 miles and update them on how it's bedding in... I hope this goes away since its a 100% fully surfaced flywheel and essentially a brand new clutch setup, and a full face organic disc like this shouldn't be this hard to work with... I could understand something with an un-sprung hub and semi-metallic clutch material having these pitfalls.

The feeling I get is as if the disc it self or the flywheel/pressure plate has high spots, or only grabs in specific areas, not equally around the whole disc... So you get a chattery or skipping type feeling. I only say it "chatters" because it would quite literally shake the motor so much the exhaust or something else would be hitting the sub-frame and making a clunking noise.