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  • Questions about Turbo Feed and Turbo Return lines

    Alright I am like just a hair away from having everything I need for this project.
    and I need to know if I am heading towards right direction/light or hell here lol. SO I humbly ask for the more experience people in this forum for help here identifying what I need or what some things are. I should be able to get his project started by 2 weeks. and I think my buddies want to work on this a sunrise to dawn for about 2-3 days or is that probably impossible?

    (I got 65mm 3.5l tb with adapter, wottech sports upper, 8mm wires, zex plugs, wideband 02 & boost gauge, trans cooler, #42 fuel injector, tuned pcm(I should had bought a programmer but this will do), intercooler/wastegate/bov/garret 60 turbo, older style timing chain set, 180 t stat, bunch of 45 and 90 bend and new cat and new mufflers, gaskets set, egr delete so far)

    I hope I ain't short of anything here other than the return and feed line connections. I am unsure what I need exactly, but I am planning to buy this GlowShift Oil adapter(18x1.5mm) for my feed lines to the turbo. but as for the return, I am stuck at something, I think I need this weld bung but there is this adapter piece that looks like this but isn't exactly like it connected to the return line and I do not know if this should be taken off or is there a separate weld bung I need to get. I wish I have a close up pic, but I think the bigger line is the return and the thinner line is the feed right?

    here is pics from the guy(BoostED00GagT) I bought the turbo from and this was his set up from searching his forum:
    g1.jpgg.jpgG 002.jpgG 044.jpg
    Picture 007b.JPGPicture 008b.JPGPicture 009b.JPG

    I do not know what those two gasket looking like things in between those manifolds are are yet cause I can't figure it out since it doesn't seem like it should go in between the manifold as the manifold is longer, I understand where most things go now, and I am putting this into a 2000 monte carlo, which might work out good because the battery is on the left side and i don't need a battery relocation. I hope this works without major relocation of anything (I HOPE) Well Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks if u read everything lol.
    Last edited by narutov2; 05-29-2011, 09:56 PM.

  • #2
    I did see that those two orange pieces has the following on one side www.tcemotorsports.com and ps3x004b on the other. BUt still couldn't figure what it is but got a good idea, I thought it was header flanges at first but from reading the description from seller (couldn't get a hold of him, think he is busy) but it said it included "half in phenolic spacer for the upper and lower intake plenums so the wastegate will clear throttlebody" so I am guessing this raises the upper higher, which probably means I will have to use 2 pairs of upper intake gaskets, I believe, I won't know till I build it I guess. I will probably need to use the spacers for this to work, BUT I am hoping that lx5 throttlebody will clear the wastegate without using it since I don't know much on how the spacers work completely(a foreign idea). Guess I just need the thing to weld the return line too, but still Need help identifying what I need to make this work, I guess maybe only the seller can tell me what kind of weld on bung I need.

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    • #3
      If you dont want or need the phenolic spacers I will buy them off you if the price is right.

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      • #4
        to boom of doom 88-that is if I don't use it first, so u would have to wait,

        also back to my side- I wish I looked this stuff up earlier since I was busy the whole day, should had just ask my friends, since I am like a total beginner to mechanics etc, I didn't know what a barb fitting was, at all...( but I was in charge of doing all the research, honestingly didn't know a thing about fittings either, it was all by theory lol) well, guess the seller clamped a hose onto that fitting, but question is how did he return the oil sent through a hose, man the things I have to find out myself, makes this seems so much more interesting. but anyone can feel free to help at anytime I will keep updating.

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        • #5
          Well the oil flow just needs to be vertical. pumped into the turbo at the top and draining back into the oil pan. I guess it could be pumped back through the valve cover but I imagine the oil would be pretty hot and not to mention it would imbalance the oil flow from back to front.

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          • #6
            ok, well I figured it out in my head lol, I feel like I am just spamming the forum, well I think I just need the same size male fitting but dam they are like 10 bucks? Well also I am still debating on getting that glowshift adapter, as I might just use a t fitting like everyone but I will have to see how far the oil filter or the oil pressure sender is to where the turbo would be before I make a decision, well Thanks for hearing my rambling and talking to myself posts...
            Last edited by narutov2; 05-30-2011, 01:18 AM.

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            • #7
              not a problem! I find myself up at late hours when noone else seems to be posting anything anyway

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              • #8
                true true true, but the problem usually is the sun is gone, and I can't look at the car for reference at all..... like for instance I think the oil sender and filter is back to back according to this 2005 pic http://www.v6z24.com/specs/images/engines/3400v6.jpg and the filter would be even farther than where the sender is, so that t fitting sounds great and cheaper now ($8-14vs$30), but have no clue how to hook it up, but I want to see for myself before buying, and I think all of the 3400 sfi oil pans are aluminum, which means I need a aluminum bung to weld on it, and then problems like if the mig welder I have would work etc.....and now the project gets delayed once again... wish answers were easy to find.

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                • #9
                  you dont need a bung to weld on, there is a boss already on the oil pan that can be tapped for an AN-6 male fitting

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                  • #10
                    do you mean to like drill it and screw on a fitting that is male on both sides? can you explain in detail how that works? can I use a larger size than an-6? thanks

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                    • #11
                      yeah just drill it out and then tap it for the proper thread. But... heres the kicker.. I forgot its on the backside of the oil pan, Not very convenient. Putting it on the front would require welding a bung.. my bad

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                      • #12
                        I see yea I think maybe that was why the return line I had, had a barb fitting so that you could use a regular hose over it so it have a longer reach option, but it I am already drill it, I might as well tri welding it in the front, as I would think I have more room to drill/weld in the front vs the back with all the suspension and crap. Thanks man

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                        • #13
                          Get a -6AN TAP and also use the recommended drill bit size for that TAP. Then use a -6AN Male x barbed adapter. The adapter will screw in nice and tight.

                          Keep in mind -AN fittings have a very slight tapper and will only screw in as far as the tap was used. i.e. if the tap goes in half way the adapter will only thread in half way. But that is okay, you don't want a lot of the male end protruding into your oil pan. The crank shaft will win, lol.

                          I'll try to get a picture of mine later today. It is easier then you may be making it out to be. It's okay, I was the exact same way. it's good to be cautious.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by boomofdoom88 View Post
                            yeah just drill it out and then tap it for the proper thread. But... heres the kicker.. I forgot its on the backside of the oil pan, Not very convenient. Putting it on the front would require welding a bung.. my bad
                            Actually, I tapped the front side, no boss of course but the pan is thick enough to hold the adapter well. After 1+ years of spirited driving and my return adapter is still in there tight.



                            Narutov2: Is your turbo water + oil cooled or just oil cooled? Mine is only oil cooled. It is not necessary but I put an oil cooler in the oil feed line to the turbo. This cools the oil more and helps pull more heat from the turbo. Not necessary but it helps......customizing is fun!

                            I'de love to see videos of the ride running when your done.

                            How are you tuning the car? Or is the PCM already tuned for the turbo, injectors etc?
                            Last edited by Schmieder; 05-31-2011, 08:00 AM.

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                            • #15
                              THe pcm is tuned for turbo plus 42 injectors egr delete etc, but it isn't a fine tune(i think that is the term) it was a pretune from zzp. the turbo is only oil cooled I believe. But I only got a trans cooler for now, because I don't know if I have enough room to install a oil cooler yet, but Schmieder did you buy both the oil cooler and oil filter adapter? or did u run ur oil cooler and feeder in the oil filter adapter? I just ordered the oil filter adapter from glowshift, with a non restrictive barb fitting thing , to screw onto the oil pan, since I wanna give the tapping idea a try. plus quick trivia question all the LA1 engines are aluminum except the block was iron right? well at least now it seems like I got all the parts I need, or my set up, just need to make sure I gather up all the tools.



                              damn wrong fitting, still need to look for a fitting, cause I think the one i bought was too small.
                              Last edited by narutov2; 05-31-2011, 01:55 PM.

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