My Official turbo built for my 2000 Monte Carlo

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

Well the project is pretty much done in the end. after weeks and weeks and weeks of procrastinating. I called off work along with 2 other friends and tackled it today. AND FINALLY everything works. brakes, idle, boost, everything period.

AWESOME!!! I'm happy for you!

Although it is whistling in a leak it is working good enough for me to say it's all good. lol. It does seems like it was going to stall when it sits at the light, like the car would studder and stuff, but isn't that what you guys call kr? all my check engine lights seem to be fine now.

No, KR is "knock retard" which is a number in the ECM's mind. When someone has KR ther ECM is retarding the spark timing to eliminate ping/ knock/ detonaton. It is a sign that the knock sensor is working, and the ignition timing, boost, air/fuel ratio, and fuel octane are not well matched. One or 2 degrees is OK but when this happens it causes the engine to lose power under boost and it can feel like a surging or "glitching" in the torque.

The stuttering idle is something else. You may need to do a little tuning on it. Too lean at idle can cause this. Try making minor adjustments on the fuel pressure and see if you can clean up the idle.

Ran it for a good bit, had the intercooler pop off a couple times, but now clamped it enough to bend the pipe lol

now just gotta finish up my front bumper from the body kit since the aftermarket one i had had no side lips to mount the bumper and I used duck tape temp for about a year... cause just tooo lazy. Well it should be smooth sailing from here, I hope.

Super happy for you. Please post a video. Just be safe!

David

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

... this is typical of a large build like a turbo install. Just got to work out the kinks and flaws.

LOL I have got lucky on several turbo builds. Each time the engine has fired off as if nothing happened. Needed tuning but none the less there was a drama-free start after the install of the turbo system.

[narutov2]

Well one thing I didn't like was how much gas this thing takes. And the pedal is really hard.

Another thing is that it moves really slow without boost, so meaning I can't drive this thing like a normal car anymore?

I'm trying to make this a daily driver, in theory this should be the same gas as long as I don't use boost right? How are your boosted mpg ?

thanks

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

Well one thing I didn't like was how much gas this thing takes. And the pedal is really hard.

Another thing is that it moves really slow without boost, so meaning I can't drive this thing like a normal car anymore?

I'm trying to make this a daily driver, in theory this should be the same gas as long as I don't use boost right? How are your boosted mpg ?

thanks

For my 60°V6 2.8, I get about 26 MPG highway after turbo install. That is calculated over a 50 mile stretch, at 75 MPH with the A/C on. I don't know what the EPA estimated milage for a 1988 Olds Cutlass Ciera with 2.8 engine was originally. But with a 3 speed transmission, I don't expect it would be much more than that.

When I first drove the car, it had bad tires and no A/C so I was going very slowly. I got over 30 that way, before turbo.

For my 3.8SFI Turbo, fully built 400 HP engine, I see 20 to 22 MPG on the highway. It has a low geared (3.29) final drive with LSD, so the engine turns some RPM's. These engines were not known for their fuel economy, and this one is so much fun to drive I can't keep my foot out of it!

Bottom line, if the engine has stock cam and transmission gearing, there is no reason the around-town power and milage should be hurt by the turbo.

In light of the rough idle, low off-idle power, and poor economy - I think you would be very well served to get this car tuned, with a technician on-site with the car, using a wideband system. I don't have too much faith in tune-by-mail unless the tuner has EXACTLY THE SAME CAR with EXACTLY THE SAME MODIFICATIONS as yours.

I am positive that someone with experiance on the software for your ECM could make it run factory-like in a few hours. Something is going on with the ECM program causing it to overfuel and reduce timing. Air leaks can do this depending on where the air is going to or coming from - but it is most likely a tuning issue.

Sincerely,
David

[timg]

The mileage should be about the same unless you're on the gas all of the time. If it isn't, either something is wrong mechanically or you need a new tune.

If you have piping popping off, either have the ends rolled or weld a bead on the ends. It's cheap and most shops can do it.

Tim

[TGP37]

David is right, it should drive just normal. Sounds like your AFR is off and needs tuned, badly.

You should actually increase mpg IF you don't go into boost. The turbo increases engine efficiency by utilizing exhaust gas energy that was otherwise wasted.

I have HPTuner hardware and can tune your PCM but there is one issue, the credits. I have zero credits remaining otherwise I would offer to tune it right quick tomorrow. If you purchase the credits needed to tune your PCM, I'll tune it for you.

Or find a professional shop. Preferably one with a dyno.

[narutov2]

Well I think I fixed the mpg problem somewhat. I could get about 18-23mpg right now, rather than the 10mpg which I was getting, I mean hell I saw the gas gauge move as I stepped on the gas.

New problem is APR is reading lean lean, like it was reading lean lean 20, and it was stalling on stop signs and red lights, after shaking like it was shorting out or dying. I remembered that my friend adjusted the idle to read low rpms because when we first got the car to start it was idling around 1k rpm and we thought that was strange, but I adjusted that back. which seemed to help the apr. cause now it is reading around a 17.4 somewhat. which why I want to know, what are your turbos idling at? with or without cam? cause I am running only a stock cam.

I still think it is leaking air somewhere but can't find it, I'm thinking of finding a way to reciculate the bov to see it that works.

Plus zzp has this rewire for the fuel pump, and people say that helps the apr too, should I get it? since they owe me 75 for core for pcm.


I guess now the main thing is trying to get it to last. Also on the side is the car suppose to get really hot and smells weird? like its normal for a turbo to show higher engine bay temps right? but is it suppose to give off a odor smell??? soooo many little problems.s

[timg]

Your A/F ratios seem off. You may want to have someone local tune it. You should be seeing around 14.7:1 at idle and cruise. Under boost, it should gradually drop to maybe 11.5:1. The only time it's really okay to see 20:1 is when you're off the throttle and decelerating.

Tim