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Desired ECU Serv # for f-body tuning

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  • Desired ECU Serv # for f-body tuning

    I have a 1994 ECU now, and I'm looking to switch to an ECU w/ removable PROM. Which ECUs should I be looking for? When I look up 1993 Pontiac Firebird on car-part.com I also see 1993 Luminas, Regals, Cutlasses, and Grand Prixs too. Those aren't iron heads are they? Don't I need an iron head ECU for proper ignition timing or some such?

    Perhaps it's just a matter of switching the PROM, but I'm just a beginner to tuning (researching still) and would like something I can drop in immediately without having to source a chip.

    Thoughts? Are there specific ECU #s I should be looking for?
    '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
    '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
    '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
    '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

  • #2
    1227730
    Past Builds;
    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
    Current Project;
    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

    Comment


    • #3
      Which vehicle(s) would I be most likely to find that in?
      '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
      '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
      '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
      '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Superdave View Post
        1227730
        LOL, that's not eactly a direct plug in. ROFL

        I'm not aware of any direct plug ins for your application that will allow easy tunability.

        A 7730 or if your ECM is mounted under the hood (Ihave to assume this is for one of the swapped vehciles in your sig), a 7727, would give you the ability to use quite a few different BCCs and masks out there, $A1, $8F, $58, $59, $88, $8D/S_AUJP, etc.

        None of these are SFI though.

        About the only OBD1 SFI ECM that I can think of is the Turbo Regal/Grand National 1227148. This is a MAF ECM, and is quite rare. I happen to have one, that I will be using on my test bench (once I figure out how to simulate the MAF signal). The only reason I have this ECM is because a friend of mine has a TR that I will be tuning for him.

        This ECM will NOT provide any tranny controls, if you have an Automatic tranny.

        BTW, would you be interested in selling your 3.4 PCM? I have a desire to try and hack that ECM to make it tunable, but it will be an undertaking that will take a few years and possibly a few PCMs to get it done.

        Comment


        • #5
          I could have sworn I replied to this already.

          My application is an Isuzu Trooper with a 5-speed manual. No tranny controls needed. My ECU is currently in the glove box, but I was hoping to move it out to the engine bay. I can make either work. The ECU used to be in my center console, but my new wiring didn't end up being long enough. Also, I have the connectors for the underhood type. I don't really want to change the ECU connectors if I don't have to. If I could get a whole engine harness for the ECU, I wouldn't care.

          I want to hang on to my M/T ECU, but I have an A/T one if that helps. I'm currently running a #16196742, and I have a #16184737 on the shelf.

          Would it be advantageous to convert over to MAF?
          Last edited by Canyonero; 10-16-2008, 04:11 PM.
          '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
          '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
          '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
          '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

          Comment


          • #6
            I googled the Serv# I'm using (16196742), and I'm not sure it's the right one either. Thoughts?

            Looks like I can get the 1227727 and a harness pigtail off ebay.
            '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
            '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
            '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
            '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

            Comment


            • #7
              IMO no, there are no real advantages switching to MAF, though I could have sworn that the 3.4 SFI PCM was a MAF system.

              Anyway, if you're not worried about retaining SFI, then the '7730 (under dash) or '7727 (Under hood). There's a later underhood ECM that is said to be a better option due to increased SRAM, I don't recall the service number and I'm not really sure how much of a difference it will make.

              These ECMs can use a number of different codes/masks, so the options for tuning and upgradability is virtually limitless using these ECMs.

              Comment


              • #8
                To keep the off topic discussion out of the B/S/T forum....

                Depending on what your ultimate goals are, the OBD1 ECM can be made to work very well with just about any set-up out there.

                I'm currently running a '7749 with $59 in my 1973 Datsun 240, running a Nissan 2.8L I6.

                Running the 3.4 will be no problem at all.

                If I was in your shoes I would look at either the '7730 as an under dash option, or since you want to re-gain your glove box, a '7727 would be a very good option as well, since this is an under hood version of the '7730.

                The '7727 came in many early '90s W-bodies, also used in some Corvettes of about the same time. Getting an ECM and harness from a W-body would likely be the best option.

                The only thing you will lose with this is the SFI, which IMO isn't that big of a deal.

                you can use many different bin files (and masks) to get the best match to your combination.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I ordered a 1227727. Will I still need a VATS bypass with the '7727? Any other considerations? Trying to find a new harness to work with now...
                  '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                  '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                  '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                  '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The need for a "VATS bypass" soley depends on the code (bin) being used.

                    Just as an example, in a '7730, using $A1 (60 degree V6 bins), there are no parameters for VATS, but in the same ECM using $8D (SBC , usually F-body) has VATS parameters in the bin.
                    Also within the $8D bins there is a "flag" that can be turned off to disable the VATS. Really it comes down to how the specific bin you are using is set-up. I would say that since you are wanting to get into tuning, you'll either choose a bin that doesn't use VATS, or turn it off anyway.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sweet. I don't know much about tuning yet, but it sounds like there are some knowledgeable people around here
                      '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                      '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                      '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                      '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Maybe this is a question I'm not supposed to ask, but: where do I get the .bin files?

                        So I have a 7727, do I need to order an adapter with a ZIF socket? Or can (should?) I do everything with an emulator?
                        '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                        '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                        '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                        '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          -Brad-
                          89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                          sigpic
                          Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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                          • #14
                            I have or have ordered about everything I need to get started with this swap, short of the wiring harness itself (I'll call some yards tomorrow). So, I apologize if someone has answered this for me already and I didn't read it as such: what would be the best starting point .bin for my 3.4L iron head engine with a 5-speed?

                            I have a 1227727 ECU (came w/ AXKK chip), the Moates APU1 device, ordered a memcal adapter w/ ZIF and a couple chips, and I'm hoping to get a W-body harness so I don't have to mess around with the harness connector.
                            '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                            '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                            '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                            '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Ok, got a W-body harness on the way. Sweet! Now all I need is snow tires and chains for the little car so I'll have something to drive when I'm working on the Trooper. And I need my roomie to get his damn stuff out of my garage.
                              '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                              '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                              '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                              '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                              Comment

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