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LX9 RWD Swap - timing cover and pump specifics

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  • #46
    Originally posted by shapeshaver View Post
    Hey Dave, which alternator is that? I am trying to figure out where to source the right alternator and pulleys. What did your alternator come off of? And the water pump pulley? Tensioner?
    Stock alternator for a 3.1 Cavalier, water pump pulley was either a 2.8 Camaro or a 3.4, cant remember. Tensioner was pieced together with parts from mcmaster-carr.
    Past Builds;
    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
    Current Project;
    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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    • #47
      Is your tensioner spring loaded?
      1962 Sunbeam Alpine
      www.lx9alpine.com
      LX9 swap in progress

      Comment


      • #48
        Ah, I think I can see what you did. The idler pulley is stud mounted and the belt tension is achieved by the alternator tensioner. Correct?

        So, did you sell your Camaro then?
        1962 Sunbeam Alpine
        www.lx9alpine.com
        LX9 swap in progress

        Comment


        • #49
          Caffine, your setup is probably most like what I am going to need to do. I only have an alternator and I need it tucked in close and out of the way of the close confines of my car's sheet metal. Where did you source your pullies and alternator from?

          EDIT: Except I'm running a CCW cover and pump. So, I will do something similar to what SuperDave did.
          Last edited by shapeshaver; 06-13-2014, 04:25 PM.
          1962 Sunbeam Alpine
          www.lx9alpine.com
          LX9 swap in progress

          Comment


          • #50
            Yep, pulley is on a stud and belt tension was set with the turnbuckle. Not ideal for a car that's daily driven but it worked good for an occasional driver.

            I have pics of my original setup too with the 3.4 Fbody brackets, that used a regular tensioner but had those big ugly brackets. It worked great just didn't look so good. lol


            Yep, sold the Camaro last year as a roller. Engine was sold and installed in a Fiero.
            Past Builds;
            1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
            1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
            Current Project;
            1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

            Comment


            • #51
              Originally posted by caffeine View Post
              I've found that only minimal belt contact on the water pump is necessary, but it doesn't hurt to have more either.
              How much is "necessary" then? Have you tried your no-idler setup at 6K+ rpm to see if it slips? I would love to not have to use an idler if it works without one. I just question the amount of resistance the water pump will have when turning high RPMs.
              1962 Sunbeam Alpine
              www.lx9alpine.com
              LX9 swap in progress

              Comment


              • #52
                I pulled the Pulleys from a V6 Camaro today finally. I also pulled an alternator from a 3.1L car but didn't like the way it sounded so I didn't walk out with it. I'll just buy a re-manufactured one somewhere. The question is how to incorporate an Idler, or not to. Dave, did you look for a spring loaded tensioner that would work before making your post mounted Idler? Once I have all my pulleys in place, where do I find a serpentine belt that is just the right length?
                1962 Sunbeam Alpine
                www.lx9alpine.com
                LX9 swap in progress

                Comment


                • #53
                  Belts usually have the length as part of the part number, I took a longer belt that I had laying around, and pinched it down with a set of long nosed vice grips. I put the belt under tension and marked it where i liked it, then measured the length.
                  '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                  '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                  '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                  '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

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                  • #54


                    For an 81.5" belt, I bought a Goodyear 4060815. In my case I was measuring for 3.1L brackets with a Smog pump and AC delete, so there was no OEM part number to look up.
                    '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                    '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                    '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                    '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Originally posted by shapeshaver View Post
                      How much is "necessary" then? Have you tried your no-idler setup at 6K+ rpm to see if it slips? I would love to not have to use an idler if it works without one. I just question the amount of resistance the water pump will have when turning high RPMs.
                      Yes the setup has been tried up to 7k rpm with no cooling issues and no apparent slipping. I also use a very similar setup with about the same amount of contact on my Firebird; I've driven with that belt setup for 15,000 kms.

                      On my friends truck we had a custom accessory setup for a supercharger and with the charger removed there was so little belt contact on the water pump that the belt didn't even change direction lol. No overheating problems with that one either.
                      '89 Firebird, 3500 Turbo, T56, 9-bolt/4.11
                      '86 Fiero, 3500, 4-speed

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Originally posted by shapeshaver View Post
                        Once I have all my pulleys in place, where do I find a serpentine belt that is just the right length?
                        Go to the Dayco online catalog and use their "Dimensional Lookup" for a belt and part number.

                        Dayco’s high-quality aftermarket parts are designed to enhance vehicle performance and ease of installation. Check out our aftermarket product line.
                        Ed

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by caffeine View Post
                          Yes the setup has been tried up to 7k rpm with no cooling issues and no apparent slipping. I also use a very similar setup with about the same amount of contact on my Firebird; I've driven with that belt setup for 15,000 kms.

                          I'm sorry if it seems i'm over clarifying this issue, but, referring to this image that MARS posted of the no-idler setup, you are saying it will work just fine with that amount of WP contact even at 7K RPM with no squealing at normal belt tensions? If so, that would work really nice in my Sunbeam!


                          1962 Sunbeam Alpine
                          www.lx9alpine.com
                          LX9 swap in progress

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Originally posted by 45es View Post
                            Go to the Dayco online catalog and use their "Dimensional Lookup" for a belt and part number.

                            http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog
                            Originally posted by Canyonero View Post
                            Belts usually have the length as part of the part number, I took a longer belt that I had laying around, and pinched it down with a set of long nosed vice grips. I put the belt under tension and marked it where i liked it, then measured the length.
                            Awesome, thanks you guys! That'll simplify things a lot!
                            1962 Sunbeam Alpine
                            www.lx9alpine.com
                            LX9 swap in progress

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Originally posted by shapeshaver View Post
                              I'm sorry if it seems i'm over clarifying this issue, but, referring to this image that MARS posted of the no-idler setup, you are saying it will work just fine with that amount of WP contact even at 7K RPM with no squealing at normal belt tensions? If so, that would work really nice in my Sunbeam!
                              Correct
                              '89 Firebird, 3500 Turbo, T56, 9-bolt/4.11
                              '86 Fiero, 3500, 4-speed

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Just got the 4-cyl and 4-speed out of my Opel. I was intending to replace the clutch, reseal the engine, and convert to EFI - but now I'm exploring the possibility of stuffing my LX9 and T5 in there instead. This wagon weighs 1900lbs.

                                10363377_10100184522447751_1293405022113864550_n.jpg

                                IMG_20140614_155726904.jpg
                                '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                                '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                                '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                                '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                                Comment

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