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  • Spongy brakes...

    I just did the rears (replaced a caliper, both rotors, and pads). I've always had crappy braking before, and doing this hasn't affected much. I have a 93 with ABS, so I followed the haynes instructions, "primed" the abs, bled the brakes, and bled the ABS module. Everything according to instructions, and got all the air out. But it still feels spongy, and the pedal goes 75% down to the floor before braking occurs... It would be impossible for air to still be there - I bled it twice, and did the "start engine to initialize ABS to free air bubbles" procedure twice as well. Do I need a new MC? Do you still think there's air in it?
    Okay now, that's enough of that.

  • #2
    Did you adjust the rear piston out to the pads correctly? If i remember right, you have to do this or else the brakes don't work good at all..



    Cliff Scott
    89 BerettaGT
    89 Volvo740
    Cliff Scott
    89 BerettaGT
    04 AleroGX

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Cliff8928
      Did you adjust the rear piston out to the pads correctly? If i remember right, you have to do this or else the brakes don't work good at all..

      Cliff Scott
      89 BerettaGT
      89 Volvo740
      What do you mean? I don't recall adjusting anything at all...

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      • #4
        heh... whoops... didn't log in. Didn't know you could do that.
        Okay now, that's enough of that.

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        • #5
          I haven't done it before myself, but a friend told me about somethin with turning the piston back out somehow in the back to properly adjust the rears so the pedal feel was normal..


          Cliff Scott
          89 BerettaGT
          89 Volvo740
          Cliff Scott
          89 BerettaGT
          04 AleroGX

          Comment


          • #6
            When I replaced my front rotors I just took the cap off the master cylinder and used a C-clamp to push the piston back... worked for me. That should work for the rears as well.
            --Rob
            Currently attending Wyotech, Fremont, CA. Start Date: 1.24.05. Grad. Date: 4.21.06
            1992 Chevy Lumina Z34 5 Speed FOR SALE $1400 AS IS RUNS WELL

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            • #7
              Originally posted by blk92z34getrag
              When I replaced my front rotors I just took the cap off the master cylinder and used a C-clamp to push the piston back... worked for me. That should work for the rears as well.
              Yep, that's what I did. I took it to a shop to have them test drive it, and they were like, "the brakes are fine... I've seen much worse"... I guess I just demand higher standards I'm gonna replace the front rotors and pads, anybody know what size Torx bit the caliper mounts take? It's huge - larger than my bigest T50...
              Okay now, that's enough of that.

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              • #8
                To set rear piston simply activate the park brake several times, and after each set push and hold the brake pedal for 10 seconds or push the pedal while setting the park brake. 5 reps should do it, then re-check for air in the caliper or dirty oil and bleed off some oil for giggles, then set the rear park break a few more times and it should be good.
                I am back

                Mechanical/Service Technican

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                • #9
                  anybody know what size Torx bit the caliper mounts take? It's huge - larger than my bigest T50...
                  It's a T60, your best bet is to go to a bargain tool store and get a brake socket set. It will be cheap and will have a T60 in it.

                  Lyle

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                  • #10
                    I have a whole set of Torx bits 50 ain't gonna do it.
                    I am back

                    Mechanical/Service Technican

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Lyle's GTP
                      anybody know what size Torx bit the caliper mounts take? It's huge - larger than my bigest T50...
                      It's a T60, your best bet is to go to a bargain tool store and get a brake socket set. It will be cheap and will have a T60 in it.

                      Lyle
                      Got it. Replaced the rotors and pads in front, and I'll try that technique to set the rears tomorrow. Fun fun!
                      Okay now, that's enough of that.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ryan.hess
                        Originally posted by blk92z34getrag
                        When I replaced my front rotors I just took the cap off the master cylinder and used a C-clamp to push the piston back... worked for me. That should work for the rears as well.
                        Yep, that's what I did. I took it to a shop to have them test drive it, and they were like, "the brakes are fine... I've seen much worse"... I guess I just demand higher standards I'm gonna replace the front rotors and pads, anybody know what size Torx bit the caliper mounts take? It's huge - larger than my bigest T50...

                        You used a C-Clamp to compress the piston in the rears? Something's not right here...

                        For the rears you should have to turn the piston while pushing to get it in correctly...

                        Cliff Scott
                        89 BerettaGT
                        89 Volvo740
                        Cliff Scott
                        89 BerettaGT
                        04 AleroGX

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Cliff8928
                          You used a C-Clamp to compress the piston in the rears? Something's not right here...

                          For the rears you should have to turn the piston while pushing to get it in correctly...

                          Cliff Scott
                          89 BerettaGT
                          89 Volvo740
                          Well, technically it did turn as it went in.. at least the right did, I replaced the left with a new caliper so it was ready to go.
                          Okay now, that's enough of that.

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