No announcement yet.

Lumina AC questrions

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Question : Lumina AC questrions

    I have a 1998 Lumina LS 3100 and have been without the AC this year and have decided to finally fix the system. I have a good set of gauges and a vacuum pump, but would like to know if anyone could give a few answers to me before I begin.

    The first picture labeled "Orifice_Tube?", is this where the orifice tube is located? I have a Haynes and it describes this area, but just wondered if anyone could verify.

    Second picture labeled "Leakage?", does this look like leakage from the low pressure valve and possibly from the pressure sensor? Is the arrow on the right pointing at the pressure sensor, where the wire can be removed and shorted to kick in the compressor?

    Third picture labeled "Valve?", these don't look like typical schrader valves and I've seen reference to a "JRA" valve in the repair kits. Any info on these? They look to deep to use a standard schrader valve removal tool.

    The system has no R-134a in it and the compressor has been unplugged since I noticed the air not working last September (2014). I see no leakage around the compressor or hoses.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I would take a look at your compressor itself.... generally, a V5 compressor will leak all of the oil/refrigerant out through the "belly seals" or the shaft seal. depending on how fast of a leak, you can see/hear it pretty easily.
    1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
    Latest nAst1 files here!
    Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!


    • #3
      The smaller valve is the low pressure valve. No leaks can been seen in the photos. Sure seems like you need some leak detector and a charge. Then you can go from there. Keep in mind there must be enough of a charge to get the compressor to turn on. If you are lucky than you may just need to replace the seals for the lines. Sure agree on the compressor leaking! That is one thing that was leaking on mine, the other was the condenser.
      Best to replace the dryer while your at it. It's in photo #2.

      There should be a full conversion to 134a kit out there with everything you need. At least there was a few years back.
      95 Beretta 3100 with 3400 intakes and TCE TB
      High flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler
      Grand Prix trans with 3.33FDR


      • #4
        1. Yes,remove the bronze colored nut and you will see the tube,I carefully used needle nose pliers to pull old one out.
        2. hard to tell if it was leaking but I don't think it was at that anyway
        3. Your valves look just like mine in my 1996 Monte,I used regular 134a gauges just fine.

        I would go to Wal-Mart and buy a can of 134a and another with dye in it. Pull a vacuum for at least 45 min to one hour,let it sit for 15-30 minutes or more to see if it leaks back down. If it doesn't it will take the first can without even starting it up and that should be enough for the compressor to kick on. When it does throw another can in there.

        See if it leaks out and if it does at least you haven't spent too much money...yet =P

        When you first remove your old orifice tube take note to see if it has a bunch of junk on the little screen inside,if it does I would go ahead and buy a new compressor.

        Now,you could just buy a new dryer,a pack of new seals and a compressor THEN charge it but what happens if there is a leak in the condenser or evaporator? I do it the cheapest route I can first.