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VATS 95 camaro 3.4 L Fuel ENABLE Wire and etc Help

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  • #31
    i dont think they have a prime.... i read somewhere about jumping a relay off to keep the fuel pump running, but i dont know where the relay is or what wires to jump. I just disconnected the fuel filter and turned the key on and it isnt even hardly pumping gas out of the straight line from the tank...... would this indicate that the pump isnt pumping correctly?

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    • #32
      Originally posted by kcscott11 View Post
      i dont think they have a prime.... i read somewhere about jumping a relay off to keep the fuel pump running, but i dont know where the relay is or what wires to jump. I just disconnected the fuel filter and turned the key on and it isnt even hardly pumping gas out of the straight line from the tank...... would this indicate that the pump isnt pumping correctly?
      Sounds like you do indeed have a bad pump.
      -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
      91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
      92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
      94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
      Originally posted by Jay Leno
      Tires are cheap clutches...

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      • #33
        id rather fuel pump than something else, i have a inline fuel pump i coudl throw on it and test it, do yall think that would work just enough to see if thats the problem?

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        • #34
          Originally posted by robertisaar View Post
          do the F-cars with the 3.4 have a priming connector like the OBD1 Ws? that would keep the pump running long enough...
          It do...



          I'm trying to find out where the stupid thing is located. I know on a W body, it's on the front side of the drivers side strut tower, on an S10 it's about a foot in front of the firewall on the drivers side...

          Edit: BTW, kcscott11, it looks like this (borrowed from this post: http://www.60degreev6.com/forum/show...fter-rebuild):



          I've no idea on the inline pump, but I'm sure it couldn't hurt.
          Last edited by pocket-rocket; 04-29-2010, 01:34 PM.
          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
          91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
          92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
          94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
          Originally posted by Jay Leno
          Tires are cheap clutches...

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          • #35
            well my fuel pump is definitly working... dunno what the problem was earlier. Problem is the plastic fuel line going into the fuel filter broke and i cant for the life of me patch it, im trying to use rubber hose, hose clamps and metal line to patch it, but its just not working, anybody got any tips on a good way to fix that cheap crappy fuel line?

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            • #36
              They make plastic fuel line repair kits. You have to have some patience and if you've never done a plastic fuel line repair before, buy two kits. That line is part of the in tank unit assembly. For some models the line is replaceable and on others it is made to the in tank unit.

              If you ain't rock and roll, you must be driving a Honda

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              • #37
                got the darn car running today. Bought the bypass module, apparently my soldering skills arent so great! Fixed the fuel line today, and installed the module, and it fired right up. I went to a hardware store and bought barbed tube splice thing, instead of paying 23.99 for the kit, i payed 1.40. I used boiling water to soften the plastic line and slid the barbed tube in, then i put rubber hose on the other end of the splice, and hose clamped it , and hose clamped the rubber fuel line to the fuel filter, worked perfect. car, fired up first turn of the key. Smoked like crazy, which isnt surprising cuz it hasnt been started in a few years, after running for about 20 minutes it stopped smoking. So far i have about 350.00 in the car total. Next thing is that it seems to have overheated somewhat.... it was definitly boiling water in the radiator. I noticed that the fan didnt kick on, so im guessing thats hopefully the problem. How do i test this damn fan? i dont want to just start cutting wires to hook it up directly to the battery, but i guess if thats last resort ill hook it up to something that is switched 12volt. Anyways, anyone know a way to jump the fan off someway without cutting wires? Thanks. K.C.

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                • #38
                  Well, IF you had a 12 pin diagnostic connector I would simply tell you to bridge A to B as in gathering codes . . . the fan is on during self diagnostic. Being that you have a '95, I suspect that you have the infamous OBD1 with the OBD2 style ALDL. In that case, you will have to locate the Fan1 relay and with the key on, engine off use a 12 volt test light to ground the dark green/white wire and the relay should trip the fan. I do NOT recommend attempting to use ign1 power to provide direct voltage to the fan . . . the car will not shut off for several seconds as the fan spinning down then becomes a generator and keeps the circuit alive until it is nearly stopped spinning. I've seen a lot of tech.'s get stumped by that little driveway mod. In either case, your fan's relay gets its control signal from the ECM. Do you have access to a scanner? And don't forget to check for power to the relay, with the key on there should be power to two terminals.

                  If you ain't rock and roll, you must be driving a Honda

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                  • #39
                    Ok where did you splice the module into... I just bought a 95 3.4 V6 camaro also... I just bought the module and have been reading through all of these. Did you splice it in at the ECM or under the dash? I just looked at the connections on the back of the ECM and It looks kinda like it could be a tight fit and also how do I know which pin is C23?

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