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Homemade Pneumatic Engine Pre-Oiling Machine

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  • #16
    While I'm waiting for some other parts and the opportunity to work on this to happen... I just want to mention why doing something like this is so very critical to our engines... in particular for the process of breaking in the camshaft lobes on a fresh engine build...or in the case of an engine that has had to sit in someone's garage for years on end. It has been argued here that all one needs to do to avoid having to go through all of this rigmarole is pull the ICM connectors, top off the oil level...and crank away like hell to restore oil pressure. In some cases...many people would just say, "F*ck it! Crank it up and lets see what happens!" Okay... if you think so... But...

    Well... whether new or old...so many bad things can happen it is not funny. In the case of new or newly rebuilt engine... starting a motor that does not have a perfectly pressurized stream of oil mixed with ZDDP and other break-in additives surrounding and pressing on all the critical moving parts can either add 10,000 to 15,000 miles of wear in just a few minutes at the very least ...or in the worst case scenario ...wipe the lobes off of a brand new cam shaft as though you threw a bucket of sand in these moving parts. In the case of the camshaft lobes in non-roller lifter style engines...the pressurized oil containing ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate) gets squeezed incredibly tight between the faces of the hydraulic flat tappet lifters and the lobes of the camshaft and that super pressure serves to chemically harden and strengthen the metals in contact at around 2,000 RPM. This takes about 25-30 minutes, after which, the camshaft and lifters will have been nicely "cured" for the life of the engine.

    This process cannot take place where there is no oil pressure to be found as is always the case with an un-primed new engine, newly re-built engine or any engine that has been sitting for years on end. In the case of the bearing surfaces of the crankshaft... it is the very hydraulic pressure itself which ensures the long life of an engine because when so pressurized...the moving journals and connecting rods are separated from their mating bearing surfaces by the thinnest slick of oil that acts as a barrier against all the churning, turning and often pounding forces of all these internal moving engine parts that are changing direction tens of thousands of times a minute...perhaps for millions of revolution cycles during the life of the engine. Preventing journal and bearing surface damage from occurring is simply impossible without a reliable and constant supply of oil to lubricate, cool and cycle fresh lubricant in and out every properly running motor... like a blood supply. In order for this to even begin properly... that "Blood Supply" must be where it needs to be...in abundance and of the right type..BEFORE.. the engine is ever turned over from the forces of Four Stroke Combustion.

    If you want a real world analogue of this process, you only have to rub the palms of your hands together for a few seconds to feel the heat of friction develop very quickly. Now just imagine if you could do that at the rate of several thousand cycles. Without some type of lubricant in between ...your hands would burst into flames! When the metal parts of an engine come into direct contact with one another... in the absence of lubrication, they tend to heat up very rapidly and expand towards each other. The resulting expansion is what happens when bearing surfaces melt and are wiped out. In the cases of piston rings fusing to and literally welding themselves to the cylinder walls, the super strong connecting rods can bend like taffy. The list goes on an on as these illustrations prove that the single most critical activity happening to keep your engine alive...is having the proper kind and amount of oil under proper pressure inside your engine. So with all that said... I think that projects like the "Oober-Loober", if successful in design and function, can make a mechanic breath a sigh of relief just knowing that: "The engine he is about to Start... will NOT come apart!" When I have worked out all the initial design and function issues, I'm confident this gizmo really will do the job right.

    And just for grins...or in my case "Cringes" here are some live videos of engines being deliberately destroyed when Motor Oil is replaced with a mixture of Water and Sodium Silicate...

    How 'bout this Ford Explorer going "Tits Up" during a live video of this intentional engine seizing activity at a dealership doing do for the very first time...

    Our 1st Engine Seize after the Gov't paid us.


    Water and Sodium Silicate.... Uhhhh.... NOT good replacements for Good Ol' Motor Oil!

    Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.


    A Dying Volvo.... Listen to the awful groans!



    the owners traded it in with a hole in the block so that makes it legitimate but if it were me i'd still swap in a j/y motor and keep driving. still a waste...




    engine,engine failure,engine failures,engine failure analysis,oil pressure,crankshaft failure,bearing failure
    Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-31-2011, 09:24 PM.

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    • #17
      I wish I had this damned thing designed, built and tested already. I mention this because if the R&D of this damned idea was finished, then anyone could buy the OTC parts and construct their own functional unit. Were it finished by now, end users like one of our members who is at this very moment concerned about this issue with his own engine; a long dormant LX9 engine would be able to quickly pump some fresh GM "EOS" Engine Oil Supplement and Motor Oil into his bone dry LX9 motor in the most convenient way possible. This would also have saved him from the hassle of having to R&R the Oil Pump Drive and then use an Oil Pump Priming Tool w/ Electric Drill to prime the engine. At the moment, this is the smartest and best suggestion he has obtained so far...(courtesy bszopi and also bob442).



      Meanwhile back in the design trenches... I've taken Pocket-Rocket's concern to heart over whether the really tiny pump I just acquired will have enough power to really push and pressurize the motor oil deep inside the block. This has prompted me to look at a company called SHUR-FLO at not only their line of 12 VDC Electric Water Pumps, But they also make a series of similar pumps that are designed to run via compressed air, metered carbon di-oxide or compressed nitrogen for use in High Volume Soft Drink Machines. The value of this technique has already been proven for me on "The FrankInjector Machine" by making it easy to precisely control the fluid pressure for the EFI Cleaning Fluid, so I feel confident it would work here as long as the line can take the pressure.

      The pneumatically operated pump would also solve my other concern over the possibility of having the electric version of the SHUR-FLO liquid pump spike or surge suddenly to a level that might accidentally hydraulically float the crankshaft bearings off of their seats in the block or even warp them out of shape in the process. Runaway hydraulic pressure can do mean things. The pneumatic method though would allow for a more gradual and controllable means of doing this; albeit with the need of an external compressed air/gas as the power source. Both of these pumps cost about the same and although they've been designed to pump either water or a viscous type of Coca Cola syrup... I think either of them would do well in this application. Here are some images of these pumps:
      Attached Files
      Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-31-2011, 09:26 PM.

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      • #18
        Every RV company I've worked for uses Shur-Flo. You can't go wrong with them. I've installed them in anything from a 15 foot $15k travel trailer to a 44 foot $400k class A diesel pusher luxury motor home. They make a good product. Just make sure it's compatible with petroleum products (but you knew this ).
        -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
        91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
        92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
        94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
        Originally posted by Jay Leno
        Tires are cheap clutches...

        Comment


        • #19
          Yes I have thought about it lot ever since I read that it is supposedly designed for fresh water and concentrated soda syrup delivery systems. I considered that the oil might eventually dissolve any rubber seals and such...until I downloaded the PDF on the pump design. I noticed that it does not use a bellows style pump to actuate its internal development of hydraulic pressure. Instead, it uses a four hollow rotating plate to cycle the liquid in a manner that simply moves liquid into a position where it tries to squeeze the fluid out of the pump body and moves it down the line. This is possible in this situation as well, since all liquids are virtually incompressible...so the fluid either leaves the "Out" port under this compressive attempt...or failing that escape...blows the pump apart. But even with the failure staring me in the face, the fact is the pumps only cost around $45.00 on eBay and I'm willing to take the plunge and get one. R&D often means taking risks and if it fails the preliminary tests I have in mind to prove it out with before committing it to an actual priming job, I'll abandon this approach and come at the problem from another angle. Thanks for the experiential insight you have about its reliability, though. I'm still encouraged to give it a try..

          Comment


          • #20
            This is completely Off Topic...But...that link I just placed in the last post bounced me over to this:



            WTF? I've never had any application/browser get hijacked like that on any flavor of Linux....WTF???? !!! (Brad...HELP!)

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            • #21
              I just get the following error message on FF:

              Code:
              Server not found          
              
              Firefox can't find the server at 4008a.bestproductdiscounts.info.
              -Brad-
              89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
              sigpic
              Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

              Comment


              • #22
                Code:
                Oops! Firefox could not connect to 4008a.bestproductdiscounts.info
                BTW, IIRC The diaphragm style Shur-Flo's will generate around 45psi of pressure, so it would probably be ideal for engines. There are some with heat sinks on the bottom that have a circuit that will lower the pump speed as pressure builds and raise it when pressure drops. I forget what those models are called though (Smart something I think) but they are all black and have a larger pump head than the regular ones.
                -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                Originally posted by Jay Leno
                Tires are cheap clutches...

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by 60dgrzbelow0 View Post
                  This is completely Off Topic...But...that link I just placed in the last post bounced me over to this:



                  WTF? I've never had any application/browser get hijacked like that on any flavor of Linux....WTF???? !!! (Brad...HELP!)
                  Brad... Thanks for checking... I finally figured out what the problem was... I have a D-Link Model DIR-628 N-Router that I've set up as a secure Wireless Access Point. Unfortunately... during the initial unit IP set up process, I had the "Advanced DHCP Service" tab selected and it engages D-Link's proprietary security feature that re-routes the DNS to GKW (God Knows Where) when it spies a suspicious DNS location. I solved the problem by turning off the DHCP Service and attaching this unit via a standard LAN RJ-45 cable to another 8-Port Router and that took care of the issue... (Whew!) What a PITA!
                  Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-30-2011, 11:57 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
                    Code:
                    Oops! Firefox could not connect to 4008a.bestproductdiscounts.info
                    BTW, IIRC The diaphragm style Shur-Flo's will generate around 45psi of pressure, so it would probably be ideal for engines. There are some with heat sinks on the bottom that have a circuit that will lower the pump speed as pressure builds and raise it when pressure drops. I forget what those models are called though (Smart something I think) but they are all black and have a larger pump head than the regular ones.
                    I think so too... After all ...the engine would not require the normal higher oil pressure of 65 PSI that it would if running anywhere from 650 - 5500 RPM... so 45 PSI would certainly be enough to get in and around all the bearing surfaces... Can you recall the exact model number of that SHUR-FLO unit? I want to be "SHUR" that I order the right one...
                    Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-29-2011, 07:29 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I'm pretty Shur (lol) it was any of them that was used for potable water. I can check the ones we use at work on Monday if you like though (along with the specs listed on the pump). They aren't the cheapies like the travel trailers, but I'm not even sure those models we used years ago are even available anymore.
                      -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                      91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                      92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                      94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                      Originally posted by Jay Leno
                      Tires are cheap clutches...

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Cool Beenz...that silvery looking one that runs on 12 VDC will be the first one I get since the PDF mentions its use in RV applications. I'll order it today and begin testing the assembly of all this HW some time next week. I was thinking that since they sell repair kits that include the gaskets... "As sure as there's Carts to Horses..." (Master and Commander Russell Crowe) I suspect I could get either some Neoprene or flat Nitrile material to make an oil-proof copy of the original unit encasement gaskets if it comes down to it. We'll see. Thanks for the update... this is encouraging.
                        Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-29-2011, 01:44 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Not a problem. You have more motivation for doing things like this than I do, which is why I don't mind offering up my thoughts and insight. Those silvery metal cased ones are the ones we used to use way back when (and I believe I've got one in the shed somewhere). The ones we use at Keystone are a bit bigger and have black plastic cases with a white pump head on them.

                          Edit: Actually I just went back and looked at the pic of the silvery one. That is not the style we used to use, but I wouldn't doubt it was a replacement redesign of the ones we did use.

                          Edit #2: Ok, here is the old style we used to use:

                          Pentair Shurflo RV Water Delivery Pumps offer a smooth, consistent flow at all operational ranges and low current consumption. Shop our collection today.


                          The variable ones we used on the high end RV's (scroll down till you get to the one that says Extreme Series Smart Sensor™ 5.7)

                          Pentair Shurflo RV Water Delivery Pumps offer a smooth, consistent flow at all operational ranges and low current consumption. Shop our collection today.


                          I don't see the ones listed that we use at work, so I'll have to charge my phone and take it in and snap a couple pics on Monday.
                          Last edited by pocket-rocket; 01-29-2011, 02:04 PM.
                          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                          91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                          92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                          94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                          Originally posted by Jay Leno
                          Tires are cheap clutches...

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Pocket-Rocket... I just don't know what I would do without your stimulating conversations, Dude! (Poor Ben... I know he'll miss you...) Have a look at THIS...:



                            Jesus Palomino...Can it really be just THAT easy? ...And check out these specifications:

                            DRILL PUMP

                            Type: Flexible Impeller

                            DIMENSIONS

                            Length: 2.6 Inches Width: 4.4 inches Height: 2.8 inches

                            WEIGHT 0.5 Lbs

                            IMPELLER BUNA - N Flexible Reversible Impeller

                            PORTS 3/4 inch Male Garden Hose Fittings

                            ACCESSORIES

                            · 30 inch Garden Hose

                            · 1/4 inch ID Oil Changing Kit

                            PERFORMANCE

                            · Pumps to 216 GPH

                            · Self-Priming to 8 Feet Vertical

                            · Discharges up to 40 Feet Vertically with 5/8 inch Harden Hose <------------------------------------------------ Oh Yeah... It'll pump all right!

                            · Discharges up to 200 Feet Horizontally with 5/8 inch Garden Hose

                            · Pressure - Lubricated Shaft, Bearing, and Seal

                            Drill shaft—flexible BUNA impeller

                            TYPICAL APPLICATIONS

                            Oil change, winterizing, automatic transmission fluids, anti-freeze solutions, low viscosity gear and liquid transfer.

                            I've got a variable speed Roto-Tool motor that I could probably dummy up with something like a 3/8" Drill Chuck and then bolt the whole thing down on a mini-frame with the primary output line going into the FRAM C3 External Filter Cannister Body and then out into the....... next thing I need to make for this work......the Modified Oil Filter Manifold. I bought one of these just now... But if there is anybody else following this build/experiment...you might want to grab any of them if they are still left!

                            (Queue the BLUR Victory Woo-Hoo Song...)

                            The Official Video for Blur's fantastic track 'Song 2'.Taken from The Best Of Blur DVD which you can grab today by clicking the following link:http://www.ama...
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-31-2011, 09:28 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I may hop on one of those myself... The thing I like about it (besides it's awesome pumping specs) is that it has a flexible impeller, so if the oil won't flow, you won't bust off impellers using something like my half inch DeWalt drill. To move thick oil through oil passages you are going to need some power, so you might want to pick up a drill (even an old corded would work fine) at a garage sale, estate sale or Harbor Freight. I'm not sure a Roto-zip or the like will have enough ooompf to push it.

                              And Ben won't miss me, he has a land of cars and sunshine with a lack of snow now. Here lately I was hardly able to go to his place to visit anyways.
                              -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                              91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                              92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                              94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                              Originally posted by Jay Leno
                              Tires are cheap clutches...

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Ok, I was wrong, we use FloJet pumps, not Shur-flo

                                FloJet
                                Model # 03526-144
                                12VDC
                                5.2A (10A fuse)
                                2.9GPM
                                50 PSI max pressure

                                Taken from their website:

                                Triplex Automatic Water System Pump


                                Model No.: 3426, 3526 & 3626 Series

                                * Self–Priming
                                * Dry Running
                                * Soft Noise Absorbing Mounts
                                * Snap–in Port Fittings
                                * Built-in Bypass : Less Pulsation
                                * Reduces need for accumulator tank
                                * Corrosion Resistant Materials
                                * Meets ISO 8846 (Ignition protection)
                                -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                                91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                                92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                                94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                                Originally posted by Jay Leno
                                Tires are cheap clutches...

                                Comment

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