Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Lower radiator hose question

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Lower radiator hose question

    Okay, not really sure where to put this...

    I need help with my lower radiator hose. It's stainless steel due to the fact that I needed a custom hose because my stock hose was getting crushed by my "wonder bar" frame brace (connects front frame rails of car through sway bar links).

    The problem I'm having is that I have no heat (well, very little). The reason I have no heat is because I have the radiator fan set to turn on at 195* coolant temp. And the reason for that is because every time the coolant temp reaches about 200-205*, the stainless steel hose blows out of the rubber coupler. Yes, the coupler is tight. I've even tightened it with a ratchet and socket to make sure. It stays on the radiator neck and the hose blows out of it. The radiator cap is new-ish (bought it used, it's a Mr. Gasket Thermocap but it looks pretty new).

    I have no idea why this keeps happening (it's happened twice now and I've lost several gallons of coolant and I would rather not lose my 70/30 mix instead of 50/50). I can't afford, with these cold temps, to have only half of the windshield getting defrosted and none of the other windows being able to be seen through. It's bad enough I'm having a problem with the vacuum doors in the system (possible bad switch--doors are opening that aren't supposed to, and I have one known bad motor I can't find a replacement for), but this no heat is killing me.

    Anyone have any suggestions? What if I tried getting some bulk rubber hose about 6" long and used more than one clamp on the radiator connection on the stainless hose?

  • #2
    My car never runs much over 195* and I've never had an issue with no heat. But at the same time the fan in my car is pretty pathetic so it takes a while for the interior to warm up.

    If you are using a stainless tube as a coupler does it have a lip on each end? If not I would suggest putting a weld bead on each end of the pipe to give the hose clamps something to seat against when pressure wants to blow off the hose.
    '89 Firebird, 3500 Turbo, T56, 9-bolt/4.11
    '86 Fiero, 3500, 4-speed

    Comment


    • #3
      What style of system do you have? Is the recovery bottle under pressure or not? Did you remove the bottle? Plug or clog the line in some way?

      If the cap works then pressure should never get above the rated pressure on the cap. But the line to the overflow needs to be clear so pressure can bleed off.
      1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
      1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
      Because... I am, CANADIAN

      Comment


      • #4
        Completely stock system with the exception of a 180* AN fitting (for the heater core inlet hose to intake manifold) and stainless hoses (except upper radiator hose) and a 93-97 Camaro heater core (because of the Camaro dash, and yes, it was bought new). Yes, I have the bottle installed, and the line running to it from the radiator is the same one that was on my old bottle, except about an inch shorter due to a damaged end, that I can guarantee wasn't plugged (because it kept leaking coolant every time I had to move the bottle unless I kept it above the bottle). I'm pretty sure of the pressure rating of the cap but I'll double check it tomorrow. I might have a bit of a restriction at the radiator connection of the hose but I'm not entirely sure on that (due to the length of the hose).

        Comment

        Working...
        X