96 Corsica 3.1, probable ring failure

[keantoken]

Thanks a lot, although I need to know what the part is called or else I can't possibly order the replacement. Maybe this is what you mean:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBGUW?keywords=distributor&qid=1450945923&ref_=sr_1_4&s=automotive&sr=1-4&vehicle=1996-47-439-20--1-9-5-1200-550-1-1-129--1-0&ymm=1996%3Achevrolet%3Acorsica

Any tips on getting the side bolts out? I got one out with a grip socket. 3 left to go, and if I can't get them all out I'm screwed. Might as well take off the oil pan with a sledgehammer instead.

[Guest]

Or do yourself a favour and just pull the engine out of the car.

From one of your earlier posts it sounded like to wanted to pull the crank as well, which will require pulling the engine anyway.

[cutlass supreme FE3]

Thanks a lot, although I need to know what the part is called or else I can't possibly order the replacement. Maybe this is what you mean:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBGUW?keywords=distributor&qid=1450945923&ref_=sr_1_4&s=automotive&sr=1-4&vehicle=1996-47-439-20--1-9-5-1200-550-1-1-129--1-0&ymm=1996%3Achevrolet%3Acorsica

Any tips on getting the side bolts out? I got one out with a grip socket. 3 left to go, and if I can't get them all out I'm screwed. Might as well take off the oil pan with a sledgehammer instead.

yes those are the o-rings for the distributor plug.
as for getting those side bolts out, it is not impossible but takes some time and patience.
like another member noted lowering the subframe is the way I would go about it if you are still not planning to remove the whole powertrain out of the engine bay.

[keantoken]

I was told by someone that my cylinder compression was fine and that it was probably actually the timing chain or gear that was the problem. There was enough blow-by that changing the piston rings might be a good idea though. I wonder if a timing chain problem could increase blow-by?

[3400-95-Modified]

Timing chain would have no effect on blow-by... The definition of blow-by is linked to the rings leaking period. This whole project sounds like it's not going to materialize into a good solid engine in the end, especially if your struggling to get bolts out now, what are you going to do when you need to put them back in and torque them? The only application that can handle dropping the pan in the car to investigate something is the older MPFI engines, because every bolt is easily accessible and you only need to slightly lower the subframe to get the pan clear.

Anyone who said 90 psi for compression wet and dry is sufficient should not be giving automotive advice.

[keantoken]

I've found a replacement engine from a 2001 car and the engine looks exactly the same on the outside. How do I know if the engine is compatible with this car?

[keantoken]

Well, the car is still there... I'm thinking of putting a 3.4L engine in it since I can't find a 3.1L engine. It sort of makes sense since I can put the 3.1L plenum on it which is supposed to work better. I don't remember the details but I basically decided it was impossible to get the oilpan off, there is just not enough clearance between the transmission and oilpan to get to the bolts. Even if I did get it off, the responses about the bearings made me nervous. The pushrods are not bent, but pretty well worn. If they are meant to rotate while in operation they have not been for probably a decade. I think It would be better just to find a lightly worn engine.

I did just finish replacing the head gasket and oilpan on an old Honda which was a nightmare because it's a badly done engine swap. So the experience I gained nearly ruining this car has been useful. Now I have to somehow get the crank pulley bolt off to change the timing belt...