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Video re-seal V5 A/C compressor...

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  • Video re-seal V5 A/C compressor...

    Hi folks. A while back, I made a still picture thread about re-sealing the V5 A/C compressor. This week, I did a full video teardown and rebuild. In this video, I go through all the steps to refurbish and re-seal the unit, including the shaft seal, body O-rings, and other areas.

    This is especially important now that the parts stores are pushing Chinese knock-off compressors that absolutely do not last. You are much better off with a good original unit. The seal kit was about $30, the pulley bearing about $20. For comparison, a new Delphi compressor sells for about $250, and a quality reman for about $200. So you are saving about $150 for around 2 hours work.

    Another concern is the compressor configuration. They all require the same seal kit and shaft seal. However, there are multiple mounting "ear" configurations, multiple pressure switch port configurations, and multiple pulley configurations. For the older cars, it is getting hard to find the exact compressor you will need. Often the parts stores will sell a "universal" one that they claim will fit - but you have to modify the wiring harness, re-bend your A/C aluminum tubing and put stress on other parts to make it fit. If you take off the compressor and put back the same one, then you know it will fit without drama.

    Due to feedback from my other videos, I chose to include the entire process, including parts cleaning. This lead to a long (1 hour) video. But, you can see every step of the process. The actual repairs didn't take much longer than the video takes to watch.

    For the still-pictures thread, see here.

    The video was filmed at a later date, with different compressor therefore the picture thread and the video may differ slightly.

    In this rather lengthy video, I teardown a Delphi Harrison V5 air conditioning compressor. This compressor was used for many years across the General Motors ...



    Thanks for watching my video! If you liked it, please rate and comment. If you didn't like it or have constructive criticism, please leave a comment and help me improve my videos.

    Sincerely,
    David
    David Allen - Northport, AL
    1986 Century T-Type, Iron Head 3.1 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
    1988 Olds Ciara XC, GenII 2.8 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
    1972 Chevy Nova, 305 Small Block V8 EFI
    1984 Century Olympia, 3.8SFI Turbo, over 400 HP
    http://home.hiwaay.net/~davida1
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/turbokinetic

  • #2
    I really hope you're washing those parts in a good parts washer after that scotchbright...They're terrible for leaving behind fine carborundum powder that will lap all the moving parts into a puddle of metal powder quickly...completely ruining your "cleaner is better" mentality. A white rag with a tiny bit of ATF on it will tell the tale of how clean they really are-brake cleaner won't lift most of that scotchbright powder!

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Xnke View Post
      I really hope you're washing those parts in a good parts washer after that scotchbright...They're terrible for leaving behind fine carborundum powder that will lap all the moving parts into a puddle of metal powder quickly...completely ruining your "cleaner is better" mentality. A white rag with a tiny bit of ATF on it will tell the tale of how clean they really are-brake cleaner won't lift most of that scotchbright powder!
      Yes, the parts were washed with caustic soap which breaks down the oil and aluminum dust.

      Cleaner is better is true, which includes removal of abrasive residue.

      I've used this procedure for years, and some of the earlier compressors are still in operation without issues.
      David Allen - Northport, AL
      1986 Century T-Type, Iron Head 3.1 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
      1988 Olds Ciara XC, GenII 2.8 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
      1972 Chevy Nova, 305 Small Block V8 EFI
      1984 Century Olympia, 3.8SFI Turbo, over 400 HP
      http://home.hiwaay.net/~davida1
      http://www.cardomain.com/id/turbokinetic

      Comment


      • #4
        it's not the aluminum dust that's the problem, it's the abrasive that is in the scotchbrite pads. Scotchbrite is just extruded plastic wool, but the plastic is mixed with what is essentially valve lapping compound. It's extremely hard to get it all out, and on iron surfaces it's nearly impossible-so I raise the caution.

        I can't explain the number of engines that have "hard to seat" piston rings due to the rebuilder using a scotchbrite pad on the bores before he scrubbed them down (or after, in the worst cases) and the rebuilder just doesn't understand why the scotchbrite is so bad.

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        • #5
          any advice on the "sealing washers"? it's getting really close to the time of the year where I'm going to regret not having a/c again, I think I'm down to just the manifold-compressor connection now in terms of getting everything buttoned up.

          GM mentions a lot of different options for the washers in the service manual, very few of which are actually available today. I think I saw 4 choices of washer on rockauto that apparently cover everything?

          there's also what looks to be an assortment kit for going through and replacing all of the O-rings in the lines that comes with sealing washers, for $8 it doesn't seem like a bad deal to be assured that some combo of parts in there are going to work.
          1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
          Latest nAst1 files here!
          Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

          Comment


          • #6
            Ugh...the GM sealing washer system.

            Of all the methods to seal the lines to the compressor, GM's sealing washers have given me the most trouble out of all of them. Even flare fittings I have had better luck with.

            Keen to hear any tips you got, David.

            Comment

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