262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics

[pocket-rocket]

I don't think there is a scraper that fits the 3500 is there?

No.

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[TGP37]

I keep forgeting you are using the 3500 along with it the subtle differences.

Make one, only a slab of steel with cut outs. Start with heavy duty cardboard at same thickness as the steel. Cut out the board for a template and then just transfer onto the steel plate.

Probably a little harder then it seems at first but should be doable.

If you can get 0.5mm gap between the moving parts and the scraper, that would work well.

[pocket-rocket]

I believe the 3500 block is notched for rod clearance so you would have a hard time getting one to fit between the pan and rotating assembly, unless it voted to the main caps and sat vertically instead of the traditional horizontal orientation.

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[TGP37]

I believe the 3500 block is notched for rod clearance so you would have a hard time getting one to fit between the pan and rotating assembly, unless it voted to the main caps and sat vertically instead of the traditional horizontal orientation.

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I had a feeling there would be some complication.....resulting in the lack of scrapers sold for the 3500.

[ericjon262]

well, I bought a 5 wire LS1 Maf, and a 3 bar Map sensor, I'm going to use the LS1 TB that I have since it will fit with a little porting.

[ericjon262]

[TGP37]

Awesome!

[ericjon262]

now I just need to find a DRTC... Anyone? anyone? bueler?

[ericjon262]

getting ready to order my header parts!

[TGP37]

I thought about cutting garden hose to the length of primaries, shove one end into the port and duct tape the other ends together. Bend around to view how a set of equal length pipes could twist about the engine bay. It would provide a great pre-design look at things.

If the headers were built to simulate the smooth transition of the hose, they will flow beautifully. As the hose will bend along 1 axis, 2 at most w/o direct interference.

[pocket-rocket]

One time I was told to use copper tubing cut to primary lengths and cover it in that foam pipe insulation about the diameter of the primaries by someone who made a set of headers for his car.

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[TGP37]

Another great idea!

What I like about the hose idea is it forces the most gradual path possible. As the hose will only bend as little as possible (if not kinked or damaged).

I may do the hose idea to find the rough draft path. Then use the copper tubing trick to fine tune the rough path outline.


I also considered the hose trick and filling the hose with hardener of some sort to hold the hose in place upon removal for measuring. The ends would be best placed in a jig holding them as far apart as the pipe diameter used later. But the copper trick also seems viable for such.


Ericjon, gotta love header fabrication. Something about it makes the day easier to wake up to.

[ericjon262]

I can't wait to get started on them! I really enjoyed making the first set, this time around though, I'll tack them, and then have a pro finish them, that way I know they will be sealed up tight! I like the hose idea, I make do something similar, but I'm still trying to finalize the idea before going public!

[ericjon262]

did I mention I got my 3 bar map sensor, and a LSx 5wire maf in? shit's gett'n real!

[TGP37]

So are you running the 3 bar map as a back up to the MAF? Or, an idea I am thinking about, having an in dash switch that opens or closes the MAF ground wire. Switch between MAF or SD. Being how MAF is better for low flow accuracy (street driving) and SD is better at high RPM flow accuracy (racing) though both work pretty well alone.

I do agree in backing up the MAF with the 3 bar MAP. In case the MAF fails in high boost, you won't spike dangerously lean and melt shit.