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262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics

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  • I don't know how or why that happened.
    Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

    I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

    Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

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    • It use to happen on another site I'm on. That and it would double up words from the far right of the reply box. Right there it would read "the(1st line) the reply box(2nd line, far left)". Whatever it is I think it's happening here.
      95 Beretta 3100 with 3400 intakes and TCE TB
      High flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler
      Grand Prix trans with 3.33FDR

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      • engine side of the harness it 100% again, and much more well done then before, I am way happier with it. I've now moved over to the chassis side. but I need to get a few relay harnesses to upgrade the relays to a more weatherproof variety.

        I'm waiting on so many parts right now, it's not even funny...
        Last edited by ericjon262; 04-13-2013, 11:43 PM.
        Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

        I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

        Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

        Comment


        • didn't get as much done today as I wanted, but I did get the fuel pump installed, and the tank back in the car. I also got the new relays wired in, and the hotwire for the fuel pump mostly done(just need to runt he wire to the pump)

          later 3rd generation Fbodies use a better style relay then what the Fiero came with stock, and when I was snatching the pigtails at the JY, I noticed they had a nice little bracket to hold them, so I took that too.

          also, for anyone interested in 3500 swaps, early 90's 3800SC(maybe N/a too) bonnevilles, and 3.4 Fbodies have a nice little adapter plate that holds the ICM in place with 3 larger bolts, the reason I mention it, is that I find it's easier to drill 3 big holes accurately, then 6 little holes. I took pics, but my phone didn't save them, so I'll have to re-take them.
          Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

          I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

          Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

          Comment


          • here's the ICM adapter I was talking about.





            I re-installed the mock up engine today. so I could get the harness finished, the fuel lines done, and the coolant lines done. the harness sits now at about 75% complete.

            the main battery positive cable is done, the ground still needs to be terminated at the rear of the car on the engine block.

            I'm going to try to do a systems check tomorrow afternoon/night. if all goes according to plan, my car will have electrical power for the first time in about 2 years tomorrow.
            Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

            I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

            Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

            Comment


            • Hit my first snag on the coldside, I expected it though.

              My BOV flange pipe is too long, the problem is that the only direction I have to go in is down, and with that long of a straightaway, it hits the trans mounts.




              the plan right now, is to cut the pipe the width of a T bolt clamp past the flange, and cut the silicone much shorter too. The resulting assembly should be about the width of the two peices of silicone butted directly together as pictured below.



              I still need to do a real test fit of the new layout to make sure it will fit as planned, but I think it should work fine.


              Edit:

              feeling around in the dark tells me it'll be really close, may need to clearance the transmission mount a little bit. it can be pretty close though, because the whole coldside will move with the engine
              Last edited by ericjon262; 04-19-2013, 11:20 PM.
              Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

              I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

              Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

              Comment


              • I've seen some mounted right on the intercooler. Probably not the best idea in your set up (or maybe it is). But if you run into a hard problem w/ the BOV placement, it is an option to consider. Anything pre-MAF will work, or go recirculation valve instead after the MAF.

                Here is my BOV. The pipe is mildly flared outward and when clamped into place, isn't going anywhere. I would do something similar or something for the silicon to bit on. Like rough sand paper texture, flared ends, tacky paint even works (I know, I tried it).

                But just to show, I did the compact design and it works well so far.

                bovss.JPGbovss2.JPG
                Last edited by TGP37; 04-20-2013, 11:58 AM.
                1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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                • I should be able to make it work. I think I may cut the flange off of the and have it welded to another pipe, in a more convienient location
                  Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

                  I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

                  Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

                  Comment


                  • "finished" the wiring harness again, not to happy with the looks of it, oh well, I'll remake it later when I have more time to throw at it. tomorrow morning I'm going to do a systems check and make sure everything opperates as it should. hopefully I won't be changing a bunch of fuses...

                    not sure why, but every time I had made a harness, I had started at the sensors and worked my way to the PCM, it hit me as I was working on the harness last night, I'd be way better off doing the opposite. It's much easier to make 3-4 wires even and neat in one spot then it is to do 60+.

                    I got the material for my downpipe in, I got it about 30% complete,



                    I should be getting a whole heap of parts in on wednesday to finish up the exhaust.
                    Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

                    I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

                    Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

                    Comment


                    • What are you using to connect the wires? Crimps or soldering?

                      It seems like 1 out of 10 crimps like to fail and create an intermittent issue, a royal PITA. Since I have re-soldered ever crimp connection. I can break a crimp connection easy, soldered connections are hard to break. I will NEVER use crush style bonds in a car again.

                      I found preheating the copper 2-3 seconds before applying solder really helps penetrate the wire. With some good heat shrink sleeves you can get the soldered joint to be roughly same size as the wire itself.
                      1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
                        What are you using to connect the wires? Crimps or soldering?

                        It seems like 1 out of 10 crimps like to fail and create an intermittent issue, a royal PITA. Since I have re-soldered ever crimp connection. I can break a crimp connection easy, soldered connections are hard to break. I will NEVER use crush style bonds in a car again.

                        I found preheating the copper 2-3 seconds before applying solder really helps penetrate the wire. With some good heat shrink sleeves you can get the soldered joint to be roughly same size as the wire itself.
                        My process:
                        1. Cut
                        2. Strip
                        3. twist together
                        4. solder
                        5. liquid electrical tape
                        6. heatshrink
                        Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

                        I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

                        Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

                        Comment


                        • !!!!


                          Houston, we have POWER!

                          so far, everything is looking good, the harness is installed, the PCM is communicating with my tuner, and the junkyard SPL. headlight motors work!
                          Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

                          I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

                          Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by ericjon262 View Post
                            !!!!


                            Houston, we have POWER!
                            Its running?

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                            • I was referring to electrical power.

                              ok, so far I've only had a few little speedbumps. but now, I've got a good one, key on engine off, I don't have a CEL, and the charge failure light doesn't stay on either.

                              grounding pin C on the C203 gets a bright CEL, so the bulb is good, that means the issue is somewhere between the C203 and the PCM. I'll have it fixed tonight.

                              Edit:

                              I just pulled the harness to double check that it is pinned correctly, and guess what, everything is correct... hmmm ???
                              Last edited by ericjon262; 04-23-2013, 09:03 PM.
                              Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

                              I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

                              Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

                              Comment


                              • ok, more info, I made a jumper, pulled the clear PCM connector, and grounded pin 5, CEL comes on. bad PCM? maybe missing a ground? according to GMtuners pinout, I've got all the grounds in place and accounted for.

                                OBD2 PCM's show a CEL with the engine off too right?
                                Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.

                                I get bummed out every time I type "titties" in the search bar and nothing pops up....

                                Built not bought, because bolt-ons don't...

                                Comment

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