You guys might like my new truck engine

[robertisaar]

I always forget about those applications... even if it is on the wrong side, notching it doesn't seem too difficult... I want to say I've heard of people threading the other side of the block for the starter as well.

[Xnke]

Fun part is that if the 2.2 and the 4.3 use the same manual transmission then a built-in NV3500 is out there

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[Xnke]

Turns out the manual 2.2 uses the NV1500, so that's a nonstarter. Darn.

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[Xnke]

Been pretty busy, but I decided to start on the headers today.

Passenger side first, as it's got the most crap in the way. Keep in mind these headers should have a primary length of 44", then merged into a 2.5" collector for another 10". I've only got the first 20" of tubing done here.

Tight, tight, tight on the A/C compressor, not much way around it.



Have to maintain some room from the knock sensor and the crank position sensor on that second tube...CPS is not visible here because the block is bagged.



This enormous starter motor is going away. It's almost as big as the cylinder head. Denso big block mini starter got ordered, and I will mod it if needed to fit. Standard SBC is 153 teeth on the flywheel, but straight-across starter bolts. BBC is 168 teeth, with offset bolts. V6-60 family has offset bolts in the BBC pattern, but a 148 tooth flywheel. I am hoping that I can shim/modify the new starter to work. If not, well, then I just need to build a BBC so I can use this starter.



The wire brush is laying on the two bellhousing bolt bosses, showing me where 1" off the bellhousing is. I will still be able to route pipe within 3/8", this was just a quick way to get me in the ballpark.



Since these header tubes have to be over 40" long, and the total distance they have to travel changes by 11" from front to back, packaging is going to get interesting.







Working on that last tube:



Not quite right yet...



Was kinda overly focused and a bit tired so I forgot to take the rest of the photos. Here's a few shots on my kitchen table, I wasn't going back out to the shop tonight, temperature was too low. It was 38F/3.3C in the workshop for the last few hours.





Tomorrow night I plan to start the other three cylinders, which should be much easier to do, as there is not much on that side. Just have to miss the oil pressure sending unit, and keep them tight to the block and pretty much straight down. Since the local coating shop shut down I have to figure out who I want to coat these, since they're mild steel. I could coat them myself, I've done it before, just have to get the coatings again.

[berettaguy]

Hi, this is a pretty interesting project to follow. What are your goals for the truck/build? It's hard to tell from pictures; is the intake airflow even across all the cylinders?

[Xnke]

Intake airflow is more than good enough as far as flow balance-that has a lot more to do with the headers than most people realize.

Once you slap boost at it, a lot of the intake flow balance evens out as far as distribution. The intake runners are all equal length as delivered from GM, and with my gutted plenum being fed from the top middle, most of the air is going to be diffused into the valley area, so any kind of laminar flow is right out. It'll all be turbulent flow, which can make for a very active port entry with little to no dead areas. Since the actual intake runners are long and pretty straight, airflow has enough time and distance to get somewhat straightened out by the time it gets down to the port. It's not perfect, but it's good enough...going by flow bench numbers this engine should pull enough air to make 300HP WITHOUT the blower, IF cam/headers/intake were further optimized for N/A operation. They're not.

I will be driving the truck daily, then every now and then will be bolting up some Mickeys and choppin' folks at the track. That's about it. The T5 will die a horrible death, and it'll get a 4L70E more than likely-or I'll see if Six_Shooter will loan/rent me his bellhousing jig.

[berettaguy]

Good deal, I love seeing your fabrication skills and all the cools you must have.

Why'd you change your mind about the NV3550 you had initially been talking about?

[Xnke]

Can't be bothered to find one right now, is all. I already have a 4L70e with the correct bellhousing, I already have a few FS5R30A Nissan boxes, but I do not have a 2WD Dodge box.

If I find one for less than 500$ I might buy one, but for now I don't have one.

[Xnke]

Overkilled the shit out of a valve cover notch tonight. Might have to grab another valve cover next time I'm in the yard and do it over, but it's purely cosmetic at this point. The rocker arms have plenty of clearance.

This is a Gen2 valve cover-it doesn't *really* fit on the head. The two bottom valve cover bolts do not line up without cocking things all stupid, and they use a different style of bolt to hold them down. They DO clear the alternator, though.



This is the un-modified Gen3 valve cover, before I started chopping. The black cut line would make it the same height as the Gen2 cover.



Well, now it clears the alternator....I didn't realize at the time I was marking it up that I was taking a BIG chunk. Oh well, it's painted black, and I can't see it from the driver's seat.



Another gratuitous header shot-this time they're on the engine. I still haven't done much with the other side, yet.



Maybe more tomorrow.

[Guest]

-or I'll see if Six_Shooter will loan/rent me his bellhousing jig.

Due the weight of it, it would likely be cheaper to have one made locally or make one yourself. The jig I had made was solid steel, so it has some weight to it. I'd estimate around 25 lbs, that would be expensive to ship.

I like where you're going with the headers.

I've already been thinking about making some new ones for my car, but with a different turbo set-up in mind.

[Xnke]

I already have one that would fit the Aisin AZ-6 6-speed manual from the 240SX to the Nissan L28, would have to modify it to fit the 660 main journal size, though, so I don't really want to do that...i still do a bellhousing conversion service with it.

I guess I could make another jig, but I probably won't for now. Still have to work out the intercooler plumbing, although I might have a way to do it. It's *tight* inside the plenum.

[Xnke]

So I've spent a little time on this and gotten to this stage of the game:



A few more bits of tubing bent and a couple of welds will have the intake manifold completely finished. I'm still working on that. Once the intake is done, and the wiring harness is done, I'll buy the rest of the bends to finish up the exhaust headers.

The wiring harness isn't so bad. I've only had to lengthen a few wires, most of them have been too long actually. I am making plans to fit the 4L60e auto trans later when the manual blows up, the wiring harness already supports it and so does the ECU, so why not? If I didn't have to use the truck regularly for a while I'd convert it to automatic right from the start-but I do use it and thus being able to tune the engine and transmission independently (even when the stock factory auto tune is still in the computer) is a bonus. I am not 100% sure that the transmission control code will enjoy the 2-bar map sensor code, because it hasn't been tested yet.



Have to add a switched power circuit and a power ground, already have the two sensor grounds and two sensor signals for the O2 sensors. They'll be along the trans wiring harness, as the exhaust runs down that side of the car already. The VSS sensor is also in that section, but someone got to it with snips before I pulled the harness. I have another connector, but I have no idea how much of the wiring was cut out with it, so I'll probably have to add some back once it's in the truck.

Getting down to it, It is starting to feel like I would have a far easier time of things if I just added an "engine" fuse/relay block to source all the switched power from. The truck harness has three fused circuits for the ECU, but the camaro harness has five, plus the one I add for the heated O2 sensors, plus the automatic uses two fuses. Total fused circuits is now up to 9, and while some things (like injector power circuits, they're split) I am ok running from a single fuse, other things (like the torque converter clutch solenoid) I'd prefer to have their own fused circuit.

The interior connectors haven't been too terrible so far-Only one of them is a power circuit, the starter line is superfluous so no worries there, the automatic gear select wiring is nicely separated out from the dash harness in the Camaro.

[robertisaar]

I am not 100% sure that the transmission control code will enjoy the 2-bar map sensor code, because it hasn't been tested yet.

I'm not sure if I ever elaborated on it, but the t-side gets an emulated 1-BAR MAP signal sent to it from the e-side. in theory, below 100kPa, it should act exactly as it would from the factory.

above that, I don't know what to expect.... maybe have to add considerable line pressure into the PE line pressure adder to keep from smoking clutches.

[Xnke]

We'll find out eventually, although not for a while.

I have found a manual trans that can hold the power and fit the truck, so the 4L70 will sit in the corner for now. I wanna put the blower engine into a Chevette later, but for now I'll just keep it in the manual S10.

[Xnke]

Looks like I will be getting some work done on this soon. I have the belt drive almost buttoned up, just need to make a shim for the blower drive and find an S10 water pump pulley, then I can measure for belt length and start that hunt.

Am gonna try to get the intake manifold sealed up tonight, and get my injectors mailed out for cleaning and flow testing Monday.

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