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  • berettaguy
    replied
    Hi, this is a pretty interesting project to follow. What are your goals for the truck/build? It's hard to tell from pictures; is the intake airflow even across all the cylinders?

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  • Xnke
    replied
    Been pretty busy, but I decided to start on the headers today.

    Passenger side first, as it's got the most crap in the way. Keep in mind these headers should have a primary length of 44", then merged into a 2.5" collector for another 10". I've only got the first 20" of tubing done here.

    Tight, tight, tight on the A/C compressor, not much way around it.



    Have to maintain some room from the knock sensor and the crank position sensor on that second tube...CPS is not visible here because the block is bagged.



    This enormous starter motor is going away. It's almost as big as the cylinder head. Denso big block mini starter got ordered, and I will mod it if needed to fit. Standard SBC is 153 teeth on the flywheel, but straight-across starter bolts. BBC is 168 teeth, with offset bolts. V6-60 family has offset bolts in the BBC pattern, but a 148 tooth flywheel. I am hoping that I can shim/modify the new starter to work. If not, well, then I just need to build a BBC so I can use this starter.



    The wire brush is laying on the two bellhousing bolt bosses, showing me where 1" off the bellhousing is. I will still be able to route pipe within 3/8", this was just a quick way to get me in the ballpark.



    Since these header tubes have to be over 40" long, and the total distance they have to travel changes by 11" from front to back, packaging is going to get interesting.







    Working on that last tube:



    Not quite right yet...



    Was kinda overly focused and a bit tired so I forgot to take the rest of the photos. Here's a few shots on my kitchen table, I wasn't going back out to the shop tonight, temperature was too low. It was 38F/3.3C in the workshop for the last few hours.





    Tomorrow night I plan to start the other three cylinders, which should be much easier to do, as there is not much on that side. Just have to miss the oil pressure sending unit, and keep them tight to the block and pretty much straight down. Since the local coating shop shut down I have to figure out who I want to coat these, since they're mild steel. I could coat them myself, I've done it before, just have to get the coatings again.

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  • Xnke
    replied
    Turns out the manual 2.2 uses the NV1500, so that's a nonstarter. Darn.

    Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk

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  • Xnke
    replied
    Fun part is that if the 2.2 and the 4.3 use the same manual transmission then a built-in NV3500 is out there

    Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk

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  • robertisaar
    replied
    I always forget about those applications... even if it is on the wrong side, notching it doesn't seem too difficult... I want to say I've heard of people threading the other side of the block for the starter as well.

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  • Xnke
    replied
    Seems like the 2.2 S10 would have a 60 degree pattern too, but the starter pocket is on the wrong side. Is this right?

    Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk

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  • robertisaar
    replied
    I don't know if that is a year-dependent change or not, but 3800 f-bodies from 95-02 would have the same bellhousing pattern if that opens up options.

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  • Xnke
    replied
    Have been working out of town the last month, but have gotten a few things going the right direction now. Found a few places to buy Delphi connector parts, including the pins, back shells, and colored covers for the ECU connectors. I was thinking of using the camaro forward harness assembly I have but there is a LOT of it that would be wrong/too long/too short, so I am going to split it and make an "engine" harness, "engine bay" harness, a "transmission" harness, and a "body" harness.

    The trans harness will be for the manual, but the EFI harness that it plugs into would have all the auto trans stuff populated. This way if I keep breaking T5's I can just plug in the 4l75e I have sitting in my floor. I haven't converted the bellhousing yet, I am still thinking about that.

    Did the 4l60e's with removable bells ever come behind the V660? I haven't seen one yet.

    Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk

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  • Xnke
    replied
    Got a little time to do some work the other day.

    Learned that deciding to work on the car after putting in a 14 hour workday is just not a great plan.

    Started welding up the intake tube-the tubing I cut up was only 1.2mm or so in wall thickness, I got scared of burn thru so welds aren't as nice as they could be. Meh, I can't see it with the hood closed, even with the big-ass cowl it's gonna need.



    As you can see I did get it moved down and in the last little bit, it's in the right spot now.



    This, this is the bolt boss that used to hold the coil pack in place. I've chosen it as the new bracing point.



    About right here is where I realized that not only is the throttle body mounting plate that I cut out two weeks ago not symmetrical, but that I have welded it to the intake tube wrong-way around. Too late now. The section uncovered isn't critical anyway, it's a section of the throttle I'm not using and it's totally sealed off. Still sore over it.





    Here's the original northstar throttle bracket, bolted up. With the unmodified bracket, cruise control would be possible...but I modded the bracket due to the throttle cable being too close to the alternator plug for my liking. I can always pick up another bracket and mod it to use the cruise if I wanted too. My truck doesn't even have it fitted...but I might buy one later that does.

    Yes, my phone camera sometimes is actually a potato. Sorry.

    The T-bolt clamp above will get replaced with a proper flange at some point. The heads come off for the final scrub-up and valve check, then assembly and everything except the rocker arms and pushrods will get fitted and bolted up to the block, so I can get the engine sealed up properly.

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  • Xnke
    replied
    The shortblock is all but assembled, waiting on the cam to show up and a new crankshaft key. Once I have those two items then everything from the heads down can be assembled.

    In the meantime, the bottom end is in a bag, the heads are bolted on straight through the bag in the photos below. I am checking clearances and have been working on the throttle body inlet tube.

    This is the new threaded hole in the head for the power steering bracket-it's level with the old hole but moves over about 15mm.



    It's not blind though, so thread sealant is required here. I will probably just bond in a stud.

    The camaro alternator mount already has a blind hole in it that just needs to be drilled through, and it'll bolt up to the GenIII/IV cylinder heads. I'm lucky I had a set of GenII valve covers, because the alternator-to-valve cover clearance is TIGHT.



    Really, really tight. May need some additional clearancing later when all the gaskets get fitted up. Only about 5mm there now, and I'll loose 2mm total when all the gaskets go on.

    Here's the intake mocked up on the heads, I am trying to work out where I want the throttle body to sit in this photo. I've got that nailed down, but it will take some work to get the pipe snaked in the way I want. It's going to take a lot of cuts no matter what, so I chose not to cut up the 3" aluminum bend I bought for this and I'll just lobsterback it.



    I am almost done with the cylinder heads, then I can bolt them down on the block with the headgaskets this time.

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  • Xnke
    replied
    As I sit here looking at those photos, I am asking myself if those intake manifolds need to be coated. I'm thinking thermal barrier coating on the bottom of the lower intake, and high thermal dispersion coating (....flat black) on the upper intake and the exposed side of the lower intake.

    I've done coatings before, but I'd want to find a good bake-out oven to degrease these parts with. Even have a long soak in hot degreaser they still oozed oil when welded on.

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  • Xnke
    replied
    Forgot to do the rocker arm thing today. I'll get around to it...

    I did assemble the Tower Of Power today, needed to figure out what to get to make the throttle body fit where it belongs. This may be a wide flat cowl hood when I finally get it on there...

    Gonna have to address this problem...



    It's possible I'll need to add a little metal to the back of the base plate, but more likely I will need to add a bolt boss to the supercharger case. It's doable.

    And this is why. The bypass valve pretty much straddles this screw, there's plenty open area there to flow air through but I'll have to bevel and radius the opening to make airflow smooth, to keep bypass noise down. I didn't do this on the datsun and the bypass valve is FUCKING LOUD.



    I did get the intercooler core mounted, just gotta work out the tubing inside the intake manifold. May get interesting.



    The Tower, minus the cylinder head I didn't need. I may bolt it up tomarrow to level things out, but for what I needed, it was just more bolts.



    And this is where I want the throttle body to sit, If I can get it here then I will have absolutely no problem removing the valve cover without unbolting the supercharger. Will take a 135 or 180* 3" aluminum bend, Or I could be a cheap bastard and pie-cut it.



    If I were to pie-cut it it would be hours of grinding and sanding inside the bend to get it smooth, so it may be worth it just to get an aluminum bend when I order more exhaust parts.

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  • 34blazer
    replied
    Looking good

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

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  • Xnke
    replied
    Got the upper intake manifold and supercharger mounting plate drilled, tapped, and countersunk today for the supercharger mounting plate. I may start assembling the engine next week, and just use the camaro oil pan to keep the sump covered and clean until I can buy another S10 oil pan.



    Just need the oil pan and to make new pushrods, and that'll have the engine assembled all the way up to the lower intake manifold. That's the stage I need to get to in order to set the belt drive up and the super positioned properly on the manifold. Until I have the supercharger position nailed down, I can't machine for the intercooler core.

    Of course I could just dummy everything up...which is the right way to do this.

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  • Xnke
    replied
    Finally got the cam ordered. Has taken a long while!

    Crane Cams has the SFI flat-tappet shaft, I had a little talk with the guys there and we settled on a 266* intake, 278* exhaust, 0.469" intake lift and 0.498" exhaust lift. Decided a 114* LSA will keep the usable revs down where they belong in the truck and will help out with running more boost later on while still keeping the 9.0:1 compression ratio.

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