Custom 3900 (LX9)

[thatscustom]

http://www.xzclassifieds.com/del-wes...take-i7262417/

Here is a hole set of LS ti. Valves for $299.00, that I found using Bing. I just wanted to show you builders that this stuff is out there. A little more looking and new/overstock valves will show up. These pictures are not grate but the parts look good and you could email him for better photos or info. Need to check overall length and stem size.

I'm not aware of smaller ti. intakes than these, and they would require new, larger seats. Or maybe get them cut down. .


These sorta look new but the pics are poor.

[thatscustom]

Well I've thought I was done with the lightening and polishing of the crank a few time. But after studying it for awhile, I did a little more, then studying it for awhile I did a little more, then...

Now it may be time to get the journals ground down at the crank grinders

[thatscustom]

I tend to jump around on the different parts depending on machines I can get on at work. Or what I can get metal for. Or boredom. And the hard one, money enough for.

This is a timing cover for remote water pump I have been working on. I will most likely get stainless button head bolts to re place the black oxide ones in this fit-up.
It's the stock cover with all the extra stuff milled off and bungs welded on for ¾ pipe tap. An 1/8 inch thick plate covers the opening.

[thatscustom]

filedata/fetch?id=425538&d=1503374205&type=thumbWhat is this __ doing now?

I intend to enlarge the oil pan into the space the exhaust would use. I am leaving that area with the three holes as a dam to help control oil sloshing away from the pickup. I intend to make one-way doors to help by closing off the holes. This oil pan is from an Uplander (?) and not the G6,and dose not have the recess for the filter. A little more room there too .




In the second picture you can see it is bolted to a ¾ inch thick plate of aluminum to help control warping when the welding is being done.

I bought a little tig welder to put some of this aluminum stuff to gather with but I still s*ck at welding aluminum. So more practice I guess before I can move on with this project.

[Guest]

The way you plan to modify that will not clear the front engine mount in a fiero. You will have to cut it up and redo it. Letting you know before you go to put it in the car and the pan hits the mount

[thatscustom]

Thanks Bigchees;

You are right and it helps to let others know too.

This is the only picture I have on my hard drive that shows that mod in process on the 2.8 motor. The frame section is not in place in the photo and the engine is raised but you can see where it's going.
Blue poly Trans mount.
I never decided what to do for the little shock / flex mount on the front side of the motor. What have others done?
filedata/fetch?id=425547&d=1503880712&type=thumb


Sorry the photo isn't clearer. And I'm not good about showing the process step by step and documenting it. So I like comments and questions to help get the info out.

George

[34blazer]

I would not have drilled that crank AND cut the journals to 2.000". It may be OK to gun drill the rod journals on a V8 or Odd Fire V6, since two rods share the same journal and it is one solid connection. Not the case with any even fire V6 since the journals have been offset and significantly weaker in this form. Also, grinding the journals as small as 2.000" is asking for trouble since now you have significantly reduced the rod journal/main journal overlap, which significantly reduces the strength of the crank. I fear that the crank will not hold up to what you will be asking it to do, it may shear clean off between a rod and main journal well before the maximum power/rpm levels.

If I may suggest: dig up an LZ4 crank with the shorter stroke and it may hold up a little better. Just my 2 cents.

But I am interested in how this plays out, especially with the details of cutting the rod journals down and what is needed to bring back the harness of the material. Cryo treating, perhaps?

[34blazer]

double double post post

[thatscustom]

I changed direction on the oil pan, as can be seen here. I cut a section out of a different oil pan to graft onto the pan to create one that is is full depth for the entire length. There is more work to do on it, but I like how it's coming out. However should I need to make another one I will use two pans that are exactly the same for construction.

[thatscustom]

[thatscustom]

The friend I have helping me hot glue (weld) the pan together asked me to open a big hole in the large aluminum plate I had it mounted to so he could weld the inside also. However I use it for many things. So I taped these angles to try and keep it flat during the inside welding.

[thatscustom]

I did not like the way I thinned and chamfered the first rods big end as it had two different setups for each side. This is the fixture I made in the hope I can do both steps on one side at once. That needs to wait for the crank to be done to get side clearance right.

[thatscustom]

I need to bore my block to fit the LS pistons. This will require a torque plate to get the bores round. Engine machine shops around here don't have one for the 3.9, and to buy one for my self it looks like more than $500. too much for my blood.

I bought this 2 inch thick “tool plate aluminum” off ebay for under $70. Here I have milled the outside to size on my mill.

[thatscustom]

I did the drilling and boring after work, they have good machines. I only work 2 or 3 afternoon's a week. After work I get an hour or two to do my own stuff before everyone leaves and I have to clean up and leave also. I have to take my parts off the machine each time. That means the next time the machine is free after work I must set every thing up again, adding a lot of time to the job.




Checking it on the block. I will make aluminum spacers so I can use stock bolts at the stock torque. I ordered some tubing tonight for this.