External Crank Trigger

[Superdave]

I'm planning on cutting the mount and just bending it 90°, welding in a gusset and drilling a new hole to mount it to.

after measuring the TCE setup will clear the frame by about 1/8" or so but the mount has to be completely out of the way. I've got holiday stuff to deal with but Monday night i should be able to make it out there and make the adjustments.

I'll post pics

[CNCguy]

and yet another setback for me...the TCE setup does not clear the Jbody rear mount. I'll have to redesign the body mount when i can get a spare one to hack up.

How much does the frame need to be notched to clear the bracket? I cannot tell from the pic and but it doesn't appear to need much removed. Could the face of the UDP be cut off a little as well as the legs of the adapter? That would move the CPS closer to the block. Also, the reluctor wheel sits lower in stock dampner compared to the UDP unit, I would guess about 1/8" or so.

The original design didn't use a seperate reluctor wheel. Instead, notches were to be machined in the outside of the stock dampner. It kept everything about 3/8" closer to the block but left a small chance of spark error if the dampner moved. That would also be an option.

[Superdave]

and yet another setback for me...



the TCE setup does not clear the Jbody rear mount. I'll have to redesign the body mount when i can get a spare one to hack up.

[gectek]

ok so has anyone tried test fitting on a 99+ ga?

[bszopi]

Yes. The 3500 trigger is a 56x trigger versus the old 7x trigger. You can fab a new trigger ring to put on the crank, and then fab a spacer to set the old style sensor the correct distance from the new trigger. Or, you can just buy the external trigger.

[CNCguy]

ok so the trigger is for the 3500 crank because it has a diff setup that eliminates the in block sensor for the lobe on the crank is that right?

Correct... The 3500 has a 52X reluctor. Using the external trigger allows you to use an older ECM on the newer engine and also gives you the ability to change the initial timing.

Edit: Oops 56x like Brad said

[gectek]

ok so the trigger is for the 3500 crank because it has a diff setup that eliminates the in block sensor for the lobe on the crank is that right?

[RacerX11]

I have an UDP available as well that is not being used. Lemme know if it is needed.

[Superdave]

If you rotate holes in the pulley, you must also put new holes in the reluctor wheel. The orientation between the crank and reluctor must not change or the timing will change. Changing the hole location by 20 degrees would change the base timing by the same amount.

Dave
If you can live with the stock dampner for a while, I will trade you one of the new design reluctors when we make them. They will mount differently and should work with the UDP. We will be making the new ones sometime in late January.

Actually, i was going to PM you and offer to send you my UDP and trigger wheel to see if you could make it fit.

my idea was to cut in a new keyway 180° in the UDP... then use a lathe to make a .010" - .020" inset for the trigger wheel (to keep it centered).. then just drill/tap 3 new holes for the wheel.


but yah, that sounds cool. I doubt mine will be running by then.


shoot me a PM and lemmie know if you want to borrow the UDP


Dave

[CNCguy]

hey dave why dont you just make 3 new holes in the underdrive yourself. Get yourself a a protractor, 360*/3 = 120* is the center of each hole, then just drill them out...

If you rotate holes in the pulley, you must also put new holes in the reluctor wheel. The orientation between the crank and reluctor must not change or the timing will change. Changing the hole location by 20 degrees would change the base timing by the same amount.

Dave
If you can live with the stock dampner for a while, I will trade you one of the new design reluctors when we make them. They will mount differently and should work with the UDP. We will be making the new ones sometime in late January.

[wasas9]

hey dave why dont you just make 3 new holes in the underdrive yourself. Get yourself a a protractor, 360*/3 = 120* is the center of each hole, then just drill them out...

[93ztwo4]

^ that would ba awsome since i gave a 3500 liked up but need to know this

[Superdave]

hummm so dave will this clear the frame rail where the back mount is?

not sure yet, it looks like it though.

maybe this weekend i'll drop the engine in there and check on that...

[93ztwo4]

hummm so dave will this clear the frame rail where the back mount is?

[Superdave]

well, screw it. i'm going to use the stock 3400 pully. I got quoted $150 for the machine work to make the FFP pully work. Not worth the few HP gain