New DOHC Aftermarket Source

[dohcfiend]

i wouldn't bother with the turbo kit. not that it is a waste but nobody could afford it. i see a headers thread where the guy is having trouble getting a measly $500 committment.

[gpse3400]

confused??? use a brace to a rear mount on a main to bottom mount pushrod...mount???

Mehh I think I confused myself..

Ok on the TDC the rear mount and brace/bracket for the automatic. I used that on my 3400 as all the bosses on the block are the same. I also used the regular main lower mount for the 3400. So I had one big mount below one little mount in the back, 2 pitch fork style torque struts, and one transmission mount. All were solid rubber.

[91DOHC284]

I like the idea of a new plenum... i fucking hate the one that comes stock on these cars and i dont have a clue as to how to chop them or whatever. but if your talking about major performance i'd like to see a trubo kit that is like bolt on. like a good turbo that works well with these car's and a proper bolt on kit with intercooler and piping and the works. i know it would be costly but i think alot of people would go for it. i know i would. and hopfully something that isn't butch. like not choping holes in the car to fit the piping. i want to keep my car as original as i can so i cant take all the performance stuff off when the car becomes valuable. sometime in the next 50 years lol

[latemodelnewbee]

poly motor mounts can't be nearly as bad as some of these guys are making it sound. granted I haven't driven a front wheel driver with poly mounts, but have solid ones in my hell camino after I kept tearing energy suspension poly mounts. I used to drive the camino everyday up until I got my Z34 and I never though the vibrations where bad, just a little more noticable than the stock rubbber ones (which didn't last 1 gear at WOT). I can't see how being front wheel drive would make that much of a difference on a vibrational issue.

[Juglenaut]

When I had my 3400 I used the rear twin cam brace to run the rear mount with the main bottom mount pushrod mount.. ..

confused??? use a brace to a rear mount on a main to bottom mount pushrod...mount???

[Juglenaut]

If you make a cam cog or drive cog from 7075 it has to be anodized and should be t4 or t6 temper. Any 7075 part must be anodized

I would like to see 7075 suspension links that would be nice

[gpse3400]

i am running the solid rubber lower front mount as well.

stiffer springs will get rid of your wheel hop.

poly is not that bad for engine mounts, it has been used in many other applications with success.

i never implied the pump was a problem, other than the fact it is so good it sucks the pan dry during high rpm acceleration.

the pan isn't baffled very well so hard cornering and high rpm is a problem.

other then that, it doesn't get the oil back to the pan fast enough is another contributing factor to an oiling system that is less than ideal.

I installed a polyurethane transmission mount on my old '94 Z28 and it was unbearable so I removed it... But after reading up, there are apparently different grades of polyurethane going from mush to a rock ...All I can say is if it can be made stiff enough while still holding back the vibration, I would go for it.

Hard to imagine stiffer springs when the car rides so hard already, at least mine feels that way... My car has over 185K, yet I do not have any odd vibration relative to the suspension, everything seems fine and it tracks straight....I was entertaining the idea of changing out the control arm bushings but I dont think I will get anything out of it. When I had my 3400 I used the rear twin cam brace to run the rear mount with the main bottom mount pushrod mount.. The engine and transimssion were litterally pushing forward on the torque struts. Very ridgid, wheel hop was all pretty much gone....And I had the same suspension on that car too...It had alittle bit of a resonace at first but then it quieted down on the inside...

I have to disagree with you on the oil pump pumping the pan dry...If it did that we wouldn't have these cars any more, let alone off the lot for any extended period of time. As far as the pan is concerned...It does just fine for putzing around town...I guess somethings could be changed with it if you plan on going very hard in turns....Maybe making a swinging pump pick up.....

[pocket-rocket]

For the cars that have lifter tap (like mine...) there was a kit that GM sold to fix it. It involved plugging a hole in one place and drilling a hole in another on the cams I believe. A long while back I had the PN for the kit, but I have yet to dig it up again. IIRC, engines made after something like 94 or 95 had this done from the factory and did not require the kit. Lucas and Mobil 1 don't do a bad job though. Normally I won't put anything but Mobil 1 in the 92, but that ticking gets so aggravating.

[series8217]

i never implied the pump was a problem, other than the fact it is so good it sucks the pan dry during high rpm acceleration.

I think aaron was the one who started that myth, and it's just been repeated since. I haven't seen any real evidence of it. In fact the heads are likely under-oiled hence the lifter tap problems a lot of us have.
My car spent a lot of time at high RPM at the race track and never had a problem. If the oil pan is underfilled I could see the pump getting starved. Also as you say, the pan isn't baffled very well.. in fact it's baffled quite poorly.
Some weld in baffles and trap doors (tested of course!) would be great. I know Chris West heavily modified his oil pan in his 3.4 DOHC Fiero for track use. I'll see if he has any pics of the inside.. he doesn't have the motor anymore..

[pocket-rocket]

Poly is available in the same firmnesses as "rubber". Just specify a soft poly when the part is engineered; and you get all the advantages of poly with the "softness" of typical rubber mounts.

Personally, I don't have issues with the poly suspension bushings I've installed on several of my vehicles, even though other people with similar vehicles bitch about "harshness with their poly bushings.

I was going to make note of this. I found out while researching poly for the transmission cross member on my truck. When I had to change the transmission, the bolts holding the member to the frame were rusted solid with the tubes inside the stock rubber mounts. So I had to use my "heat wrench" to persuade them loose. Needless to say, it fried the rubber. I went to the dealer, and they don't sell bushings for the cross members, but they just happened have a brand new cross member for around $200! Anyways, one of my friends worked at a machine shop and said he had permission to machine me new bushings out of poly if I bought the material. It was at that point where I found there were tons of grades and firmnesses of poly. It goes from something much softer then the rubber our mounts are made out of, to something hard enough to scratch aluminum, IIRC. My 92 has a full poly bushing kit in it from RSM. I didn't go through the complete hell Ben went with his, but it was already installed on my car when I bought it. Yes, it does ride a little harsher then my 91 w/ stock rubber, but it also would run circles around the 91 in any kind of cornering/handling exercises. To get something, you kind of have to give something. Want better handling? Sorry to say, but you have to sacrifice a little ride quality.

Quick fact: Polyurethane is actually in the rubber family :P

[datsun1973]

Thanks!

[dohcfiend]

i do not have the CAD files on me, they belong to the CNC guy that made a majority of my parts.

If he allows me to have them, i will have the cad files for the following:

Aluminum front timing cover
Cam Timing Tools
Billet 10% UD WP pulley
Billet Serpentine Tensioner
Billet A/C Delete pulley

I have other parts that i have brokered with vendors to have made. Unfortunately you cannot have them for R&D b/c i am kinda using them.

Custom intake arm that allows a n* Tb to be bolted on-MMS
Teflon Crank scraper-Ben/sappyse107/WOT-TECH
1 inch billet spacer for 96-97 dohc plenum-Dave96z34

[Schurkey]

Polyurethane main mounts I guess..... would be good for a track car or something, but for a everyday car you'll induce so much vibration, might even stress and break some bosses due to there not being any give...I'm up for controlling all the wheel hop these cars have but polyurethane is alittle too rough...at least for me. Some hard rubber mounts would be good for everyday use. I'm running a solid rubber front lower mount.

Poly is available in the same firmnesses as "rubber". Just specify a soft poly when the part is engineered; and you get all the advantages of poly with the "softness" of typical rubber mounts.

Personally, I don't have issues with the poly suspension bushings I've installed on several of my vehicles, even though other people with similar vehicles bitch about "harshness with their poly bushings.

[FastZ34Lumina5]

You would have me for a set of headers if ya make them for the 1991 to 1993 Motors.

[datsun1973]

Email me the CAD files to AndyandKelly77@Peoplepc.com if you have them