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GT35+3500

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    anyone know the name of the connector used on the 3500 fuel injector?

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    did 60# injectors come stock in anything?

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  • TGP37
    replied
    Originally posted by 1988GTU View Post
    If you're that concerned with the oil blowing by the seals (which you shouldnt be) you could orientate the turbo cartridge to be perpendicular to the engine/trans leaving the oil to put pressure on the walls of the metal rather than the seals when gravity and gforces presents itself. Honestly, that is over thinking the situation though.
    I did not tilt mine, just an observation regarding longetivity. Probably more of a concern for really high boost with insane turbine rpm's.

    I like your idea though, it removes any doubt. Like trying to turn a spinning wheel, the gyroscopic effect, would not be an issue. Imagine a bike wheel spinning at the speed the turbine does and then turn it. Changes in orientation definitely apply but probably too minor for street turbo.....or is it?

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  • 1988GTU
    replied
    If you're that concerned with the oil blowing by the seals (which you shouldnt be) you could orientate the turbo cartridge to be perpendicular to the engine/trans leaving the oil to put pressure on the walls of the metal rather than the seals when gravity and gforces presents itself. Honestly, that is over thinking the situation though.

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  • TGP37
    replied
    Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
    Re-read the last part of that... it's incorrect... You want the BOV before the MAF if the MAF is after the turbo, that way the air it releases is NOT metered yet even though its gone through the turbo.
    Good catch, mental typo lol!

    Originally posted by 1988GTU View Post
    Keep the compressor and turbine housing balanced/level to the ground and try not to have it tipping/leaning forward or back if possible
    On that topic, during rapid acceleration (when turbo rpm is at it's highest) the direction of force isn't perpendicular to the ground. The same is for oil flow as well. If one dripped liquid while accelerating it drops at an angle in relation to the ground.

    So I considered tilting the turbo forward x amount of degrees off balance at rest. When under boost the exhaust seal won't receive unnecessary force towards the rear of the car and the oil flow out will receive less resistance.

    I wonder if doing such would help keep the turbine seals and shaft life last longer.
    Last edited by TGP37; 05-27-2012, 01:36 PM.

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  • 1988GTU
    replied
    In order to prevent your turbo from spewing its seal and leaking oil everywhere, you need to have the oil drain tube angled no more or less than the 5 and 7 o'clock like Jon said. You are relying on gravity to drain the oil to the pan, therefore, you will want no restrictions in the line at any point and want the entry point to be above the oil level inside the oil pan.

    Keep the compressor and turbine housing balanced/level to the ground and try not to have it tipping/leaning forward or back if possible. Additionally, keep the turbo pointed in the most efficient way to prevent from using harsh bends ( 90* ) and to keep heat soaking in mind for surrounding parts (brake booster is a common issue) .
    With certain applications and designs, a more aggressive angle can be allowed, but if avoidable, don't default to the possible headache.

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  • bearbear3_4
    replied
    Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
    I think what matters most is to have the turbine shaft be parallel to the ground, and the oil drain to be between 5-7o'clock but don't quote me on that one... that's just how I've SEEN them installed.
    That is what's recommended

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    thats what I thought, just wanted to make sure though.

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    I think what matters most is to have the turbine shaft be parallel to the ground, and the oil drain to be between 5-7o'clock but don't quote me on that one... that's just how I've SEEN them installed.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    When I mount the turbo, does the "cartridge" have to be mounted vertical?

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
    The MAF can be pre-turbo, but the BOV would need to pipe the released intake charge back into the system (after the MAF, before the turbo) to avoid dumping already metered air. Otherwise, the BOV must be after the MAF sensor.
    Re-read the last part of that... it's incorrect... You want the BOV before the MAF if the MAF is after the turbo, that way the air it releases is NOT metered yet even though its gone through the turbo.

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  • TGP37
    replied
    Originally posted by bearbear3_4 View Post
    On my 3900 I run the stock 5 wire maf between the BOV and TB that way it only reads the air that will be entering the engine.
    The MAF can be pre-turbo, but the BOV would need to pipe the released intake charge back into the system (after the MAF, before the turbo) to avoid dumping already metered air. Otherwise, the BOV must be after the MAF sensor.

    I too suggest the same as Bearbear3_4. It is more reliable and you get the cool BOV sound. But try to keep the BOV several inches away from the MAF. And keep the MAF atleast 6" from the Throttle body (GM's advise).

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    Originally posted by 95SleeperAcheiva View Post
    stock lower end can handle 15-18 lbs of boost?

    I got a turbo sitting here for my DOHC and I was worring about pushing 8.

    maybe, we'll find out!

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  • bearbear3_4
    replied
    Originally posted by ericjon262 View Post
    I'm going to run a 5 wire MAF, so it would be best to have the MAF close to the TB so the IAT reading is more accurate.
    On my 3900 I run the stock 5 wire maf between the BOV and TB that way it only reads the air that will be entering the engine.

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
    A fiero, yeah that will pull freaking hard man with that much boost. My heavy ass 96 GP with 8psi is a beast. But a Fiero 5-speed with 15psi.....lol. gonna be nice.


    You can have the BOV after the MAF. But the MAF would need to be pre-turbo and the BOV redirects the discharge back into the intake between the turbo and the MAF. This will provide the best respool after shifting. As the discharged air circulates and keeps the turbo spooled up a bit longer. Though, I haven't actually worked that setup yet so I could be misinformed.
    The BOV on my Legacy is after the MAF on my TMIC, and the MAF is pre turbo, Stock this car had a 100% recirc valve that would release the excess pressure back into the intake post MAF sensor, so yes that method works just fine, but way too many people out there want that BOV sound so in that case yes if your running 100% VTA then you will get fireballs and backfires and rich conditions on shifts. Thats why I have mine setup at 50/50, you still get a decent amount of BOV sound, but most of the air is also recirculated so you get less of a pop or fireball.

    My Legacy's MAF is also a 5-wire so the IAT is pre Intercooler and it runs fine, many keep it that way and don't convert to a blown through MAF, just a fyi.

    A lot of the discussion that I see online on running a draw through vs blow through is mostly due to turbulence, they say there is much more after the turbo than before it. However I do not know how much a FMIC and piping will change that story if your Maf is almost the last thing on the system before the TB.
    Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 05-07-2012, 08:19 AM.

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