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  • 95SleeperAcheiva
    replied
    stock lower end can handle 15-18 lbs of boost?

    I got a turbo sitting here for my DOHC and I was worring about pushing 8.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
    A fiero, yeah that will pull freaking hard man with that much boost. My heavy ass 96 GP with 8psi is a beast. But a Fiero 5-speed with 15psi.....lol. gonna be nice.


    You can have the BOV after the MAF. But the MAF would need to be pre-turbo and the BOV redirects the discharge back into the intake between the turbo and the MAF. This will provide the best respool after shifting. As the discharged air circulates and keeps the turbo spooled up a bit longer. Though, I haven't actually worked that setup yet so I could be misinformed.
    I'm going to run a 5 wire MAF, so it would be best to have the MAF close to the TB so the IAT reading is more accurate.

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  • TGP37
    replied
    A fiero, yeah that will pull freaking hard man with that much boost. My heavy ass 96 GP with 8psi is a beast. But a Fiero 5-speed with 15psi.....lol. gonna be nice.


    You can have the BOV after the MAF. But the MAF would need to be pre-turbo and the BOV redirects the discharge back into the intake between the turbo and the MAF. This will provide the best respool after shifting. As the discharged air circulates and keeps the turbo spooled up a bit longer. Though, I haven't actually worked that setup yet so I could be misinformed.
    Last edited by TGP37; 05-06-2012, 11:03 AM.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    well, I'm not too worried about how easy/hard it is to tune I'm outsourcing that. I re-thought the oil cooler thought... I don't know what I was thinking...

    I'll try to post a few update pics soon!

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  • timg
    replied
    Why cool it pre turbo? If you run an oil cooler, let it benefit the entire engine.

    I didn't remove any valves built into the brake booster, but I didn't add any either.

    I've had my MAF pre-turbo and post turbo. Pre-turbo meant huge fireballs out of exhaust every shift with a loud boom to go with. It also meant occasional stalls when the engine ran so rich it killed itself after the BOV released pressure. MAF post BOV has been very stable and easy to tune without any of the drivability problems I had with it pre-turbo.

    Tim

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    I think I will go ahead and put the maf right ahead of the TB, that way it will read exactly whats going into the engine. would it be a bad idea to run my oil feed through a oil cooler pre turbo? also, I got my turbo in today!

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    things to remember on maf placement is how with the compressed air temp will affect the reading, as well as if pre you will have a BOV and vent to atmosphere so you will get pops on shifts from it registering air going in but never making it to the engine so it will be a little extra rich.

    Blow through MAF's are not a bad idea, but I think they are a bit more difficult to scale... I've never messed with one like that and my legacy is a suck through so with my 50/50 BOV I will get some pops on shifts if I'm a bit aggressive with it, but overall its not bad.

    Originally posted by timg View Post
    My brake booster doesn't have a check valve. If I try to use brakes under boost, there's no assist, but as long as I'm not WOT and trying to brake, it's not an issue.

    Tim
    A brake booster has a check valve from the factory stock for the same reason, a N/A engine you loose Vac at WOT so they put a check valve on it so there is always vac in the booster to assist you. Why would you remove that?
    Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 05-04-2012, 09:13 AM.

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  • Z26-T
    replied
    For the brake booster, most systems come stock with a check valve in it. That is so there is always a reserve inside the booster, which increases the life of the diaphragm. It's also so the booster doesn't empty when the engine is shut off. The booster should also retain enough reserve for 3 assisted brakes before it's depleted.

    Think about the question. The computer needs to know what's going into the engine.. So would it be better for it to know what's going into the turbo or the throttle body?

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    I'm going to go obd2 for engine management, where should I put my MAF? pre or post turbo?

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  • timg
    replied
    My brake booster doesn't have a check valve. If I try to use brakes under boost, there's no assist, but as long as I'm not WOT and trying to brake, it's not an issue.

    Tim

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    I started thinking about it, and the only vacuum, port I can think of that isn't a sensor is my brake booster, which I think I will plumb to a canister with a check valve.

    I'll have to see if a buddy has a copy of maximum boost I can borrow.
    Last edited by ericjon262; 05-03-2012, 01:19 PM.

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  • timg
    replied
    I don't have a flex in my Y, but do in my down pipe. No problems so far.

    I agree that boost and WBO2 sensors are the first sensors to consider. I wouldn't waste money on a narrowband O2, especially since wideband O2 sensors with displays are now under $200. A wideband O2 should be pre-cat but at the bottom of the down pipe. I wouldn't worry about EGT.

    With the vacuum ports, it depends on what they go to. Many may be much better off with check valves or run to their original source than plugged off.

    Tim

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  • Z26-T
    replied
    Depends what the vacuum ports are for.. If there are sensors involved i'd keep the lines there with check valves. All the o2s i've seen have been post turbo. You will need some flex in the exhaust. EGT isn't as necessary as a vac/boost gauge and wideband. Though it's not a bad idea to have. As recommended with all turbo kits, reading the book maximum boost by corky bell is a good idea.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    ok, that's what I was figuring on for the oil, and I guess I'll install a vacuum can with a check valve. My turbo will be mounted above my transmission, so I don't see why I would need any kind of flex coupling between the engine and the turbo, I can see why one on the downpipe is a good idea. should I install my o2 sensors pre or post turbo? Is an egt probe necessary? should I just plug the remaining vacuum ports on the engine? sorry for all the questions, I jumped into the turbo world a little quicker than I thought!

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  • Z26-T
    replied
    Originally posted by ericjon262 View Post
    you know, I hadn't really thought about it until now, but what am I going to do about my vacuum accessories? mainly my brake booster... I guess its time to invest in a vacuum pump?
    I'd imagine you won't always be creating boost. For the times that you're not, your booster should fill with vacuum. That is if the valve going into your booster is working properly. I'd recommend re-routing your pcv to your exhaust. If you're worried about other accessories install a 1 way valve so the boost doesn't go into them. If you find that your engine doesn't create enough vacuum, then invest in a pump .

    For oil feed, most people T off the oil pressure sending unit with an SS line. For the drain, most just drain into the pan above the oil line. Since that is a gravity feed style, make sure the drain doesn't have to go "uphill". If your drain isn't sufficient, oil can build up and leak past the seals.

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