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Iron-head 2.8MPFI Turbo Install / 85 Celebrity

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  • fasteddi
    replied
    Sweet build man. Sounds like my camaro a bit. 3.1L Iron headed build also. I dont know what my 0-60mph time was but it was cooking too. Amazing what the 2.1/3.1l gen 1 engines can take.

    I got a vid in my sig of a 12 second pass on it. Using $59 like you but with a gt5382 turbo.

    Leave a comment:


  • Purple pit
    replied
    That is a nice list. So once you do a 2.8 then it's on to a 3.8? Almost seems that way.

    Leave a comment:


  • davida1_hiwaay_net
    replied
    Originally posted by Purple pit View Post
    Damn, you make it seem so easy.
    Comes with practice. I've made these turbo systems (in order)

    1986 Century T-Type (iron-head 2.
    1984 Century (3.0 Buick, used carb draw-through turbo from 1978 Riviera, with a TBI in place of carb)
    1984 Century (3.8SFI Buick, 4T65EHD, 60Lb injectors, 3-bar MAP, HR258 cam, GTK450 turbo; 450+ HP)
    1987 Century (3.8SFI Buick, totally stock engine, just bolted on a turbo and did a tune)
    1988 Olds Ciera XC 90th anniversary edition (2.8 MPFI with bolted-on McLaren turbo system and a tune)
    1986 LeSabre Grand National (3.8SFI Buick, totally stock engine, just bolted on a turbo and did a tune)
    And finally
    1985 Celebrity Eurosport, 2.8 Iron Head

    Leave a comment:


  • Purple pit
    replied
    Damn, you make it seem so easy.

    Leave a comment:


  • davida1_hiwaay_net
    replied
    Originally posted by Purple pit View Post
    Really starting to want a turbo now. Sure wrapped up nice!
    Thanks.

    I am happy with the drivability and power balance of this one.

    The magic of any build is in the tune. A person can buy the most expensive turbo in the world and bolt it on. But, it won't do anything for you if you can't get everything to "jee-haw" together like it should. Make sure and be prepared for a good tuning session after you go with boost! Be prepared to mate the ECM calibration, transmission shift points, torque converter stall speed and lockup points, cooling system, fans, electrical system and every part of the car together. This is the only way to get perfect drivability.

    But you SHOULD go turbo. Once turbo, no turning back.

    Sincerely,
    David

    Leave a comment:


  • Purple pit
    replied
    Really starting to want a turbo now. Sure wrapped up nice!

    Leave a comment:


  • davida1_hiwaay_net
    replied
    Zero to sixty in about 5 seconds....

    Originally posted by Purple pit View Post
    I would love to see a gas turbine build.
    So would I!!! That would be badass beyond belief. Especially in one of our lightweight cars.

    Here is one more performance video of Project Camilla. I got an OK 0-60 time this time. Would have been better with more traction but hay it's street tires and I am no race driver.

    In the first video, the transmission was shifting out way too early. This video is after it has been adjusted.



    Sincerely,
    David

    Leave a comment:


  • Purple pit
    replied
    I would love to see a gas turbine build.

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  • davida1_hiwaay_net
    replied
    Originally posted by The_Raven View Post
    Yep, that exactly what I was thinking, that the amp is seeing an issue with the input, which is a signal issue from the radio.
    It had a pop over the speakers during the power-on phase, without the delay. Now there is no pop.

    By the way; looking at your signature, do you have a build thread for your boosted cars?

    Sincerely,
    David

    Leave a comment:


  • davida1_hiwaay_net
    replied
    Here is a video which better explains the radio amp problem and the solution I used.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by davida1_hiwaay_net View Post
    Yeah, I also think there's no reason for this nonsense!

    Because of the way I made an adapter harness out of factory harnesses, I can't connect only the amp turn-on without connecting the audio input. This is because it's all in one connector on the factory radio.

    One other test I did, was to bypass the "accessory" switch so that the radio stayed powered on during engine cranking. There was a 'strange noise' on the speakers (not loud, but you could hear the starting motor over the speakers). But the amp would never lock up. So it's not voltage drop on the power wires.

    I am thinking possibly, when the radio headunit powers down, it sends out an abnormal signal on the audio output. This trips the amp into protect mode. Then the cranking cycle is not long enough to allow the amp to reset before power is reapplied.

    I've about got the relay installed, which will cause a 3-second minimum off-time whenever the starter is engaged.
    Yep, that exactly what I was thinking, that the amp is seeing an issue with the input, which is a signal issue from the radio.

    Leave a comment:


  • davida1_hiwaay_net
    replied
    Originally posted by Purple pit View Post
    Sure turned out to be a diamond in the ruff. Very happy that you saved it! Sad because the next build is not a 60(somehow I knew it wouldn't be).
    Thanks!

    Some might say I'm an engine whore. I like all them no matter if they are Chevy, Buick, Caterpillar (I work for them), or even gas turbine engines. If it burns fuel and makes power, I like it. Big and loud are a plus.

    Next build will be posted on the Buick forums, but I may cross post it here in the off topic area.

    Sincerely,
    David

    Leave a comment:


  • Purple pit
    replied
    Sure turned out to be a diamond in the ruff. Very happy that you saved it! Sad because the next build is not a 60(somehow I knew it wouldn't be).

    Leave a comment:


  • davida1_hiwaay_net
    replied
    Originally posted by The_Raven View Post
    Just a thought, try unplugging the inputs from the amp, I have a suspicion...

    There's zero reason why you should have this issue. I have never had a problem like this with a Clarion (or any other amp) and I've installed plenty of Clarion amplifiers without issue.
    Yeah, I also think there's no reason for this nonsense!

    Because of the way I made an adapter harness out of factory harnesses, I can't connect only the amp turn-on without connecting the audio input. This is because it's all in one connector on the factory radio.

    One other test I did, was to bypass the "accessory" switch so that the radio stayed powered on during engine cranking. There was a 'strange noise' on the speakers (not loud, but you could hear the starting motor over the speakers). But the amp would never lock up. So it's not voltage drop on the power wires.

    I am thinking possibly, when the radio headunit powers down, it sends out an abnormal signal on the audio output. This trips the amp into protect mode. Then the cranking cycle is not long enough to allow the amp to reset before power is reapplied.

    I've about got the relay installed, which will cause a 3-second minimum off-time whenever the starter is engaged.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest
    Guest replied
    Just a thought, try unplugging the inputs from the amp, I have a suspicion...

    There's zero reason why you should have this issue. I have never had a problem like this with a Clarion (or any other amp) and I've installed plenty of Clarion amplifiers without issue.

    Leave a comment:

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