Iron-head 2.8MPFI Turbo Install / 85 Celebrity

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

Damn, guess this is the end.

Don't be sad, it's not the end. It's a new beginning for a car that was 'one wheel in the junkyard' and now has a new lease on life.

This was almost the end:



This is the new beginning:



I'll be doing more builds. My next one won't be a 60°V6, though. It will be a Buick V6 / 4T80E build.

As for the radio problem, I have not been able to get any support from Clarion. Will be installing a time relay to the accessory power circuit and will report back here if this solves the problem.

Sincerely,
David

[Purple pit]

Damn, guess this is the end.

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

When you connected to the battery did you just use spring loaded clamps, or did you actually make proper connections? I have found many times that using spring loaded clamps on some devices, especially sensitive electronics, that draw more than an ampere, will cause issues, or at least not properly verify a change.

If the amplifier is rated to draw more than 10 amperes, run a battery line to the battery directly and install an appropriately sized fuse at the battery. I have found in many cases that while an issue may not show up initially using another point, eventually one will show up, due to increased resistance in the power supply (voltage drop) over using a dedicated power wire. Grounding to some thick metal in the kick panel is ideal, for you amplifier location, though I will also suggest moving it to a more ventilated location, if the actual power output is anything over about 100W. An amplifier that puts out 100W will usually take in about 200W and that's a LOT of power dissipation in the form of heat to try and deal with.

Does the amp normally go into protect mode for a few seconds at power on? Many amplifiers do, until all of the system checks are done and pass.

Just a quick update. Been busy!

The amp does normally go into Protect at powerup, for about 10 seconds. This is normal according to the manual.

The battery is trunk mounted. I ran the 'temporary' amplifier test power leads to the trunk and terminated them on the power studs for the battery + and - points. This was directly at the battery on a 3/8 stud post. The wires were clamped between washers and I am sure there was a very solid connection.

The problem is related to the mount of time the amp turn-on signal is OFF before being returned to an ON state. If the amp turn-on signal is removed and re-applied too quickly, it will cause the problem I am having.

Cranking the engine takes only about a second (the HEI ignition system lights off almost instantly). This is a short OFF cycle to the amp turn-on signal. I can 'provoke' this problem by powering the radio off and back on briefly; or cycling the ignition off and back on briefly.

If I 'hold' the key in 'start' longer than necessary to ignite the engine (yeah bad for the starter I know!) the radio will play normally after the start.

Looks like I need to install a timing relay to give the system a minimum OFF time during startup.

Other than the radio problem, the car is running like a top. I drove it from my hometown to Memphis (about 3.5 hours each way) and it ran great. The only remaining tuning is to dial-in the torque converter clutch lockup speeds. With the 440T4 trans, the lockup is supposed to happen between 3rd and 4th gears. So you have to tune the ECM to apply it in this band of speed / throttle positions so that it feels correct. The ECM program I started with was originally for a 700R4 equipped vehicle so the factory luckup times were not very good for the 440T4.

It's about time to burn a permanent chip and send this one home!

Sincerely,
David

Just a quick reply (really busy)

The amplifier instructions explained that it needs a constant battery feed for the power supply. I connected it to an unused power feed on the fusebox. There was no wire installed in one position of the fuse box. I crimped a OEM terminal to a wire and clipped it into the fusebox. That fuse is hot all the time. I have tried a pair of dedicated power and ground wires directly to the battery but there was no difference.

The turn-on wire comes from the radio, it is the factory signal to operate a power antenna. WHen the radio is ON, this signal is connected to the accessory power feed. This signal is powered on when the accessory or run position is selected. It powers OFF during cranking.

When you connected to the battery did you just use spring loaded clamps, or did you actually make proper connections? I have found many times that using spring loaded clamps on some devices, especially sensitive electronics, that draw more than an ampere, will cause issues, or at least not properly verify a change.

If the amplifier is rated to draw more than 10 amperes, run a battery line to the battery directly and install an appropriately sized fuse at the battery. I have found in many cases that while an issue may not show up initially using another point, eventually one will show up, due to increased resistance in the power supply (voltage drop) over using a dedicated power wire. Grounding to some thick metal in the kick panel is ideal, for you amplifier location, though I will also suggest moving it to a more ventilated location, if the actual power output is anything over about 100W. An amplifier that puts out 100W will usually take in about 200W and that's a LOT of power dissipation in the form of heat to try and deal with.

Does the amp normally go into protect mode for a few seconds at power on? Many amplifiers do, until all of the system checks are done and pass.

[1988GTU]

You might need an inline cap and it would hurt to use a capacitive filter before it to make that situation go away.

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

Where did you grab power for the amplifier? How are you triggering it to turn on?

Depending on how and where you pulled power from, I think I know what might be happening.

Also FYI, Metra, along with a few other aftermarket audio accessory manufacturers made and supply harness adapters and repair pig tails for plugging into OEM harnesses.

Just a quick reply (really busy)

The amplifier instructions explained that it needs a constant battery feed for the power supply. I connected it to an unused power feed on the fusebox. There was no wire installed in one position of the fuse box. I crimped a OEM terminal to a wire and clipped it into the fusebox. That fuse is hot all the time. I have tried a pair of dedicated power and ground wires directly to the battery but there was no difference.

The turn-on wire comes from the radio, it is the factory signal to operate a power antenna. WHen the radio is ON, this signal is connected to the accessory power feed. This signal is powered on when the accessory or run position is selected. It powers OFF during cranking.

Where did you grab power for the amplifier? How are you triggering it to turn on?

Depending on how and where you pulled power from, I think I know what might be happening.

Also FYI, Metra, along with a few other aftermarket audio accessory manufacturers made and supply harness adapters and repair pig tails for plugging into OEM harnesses.

[robertisaar]

your average go-kart feels fast too, that low to the ground must feel like warp speed at 55.

[1988GTU]

Sorta like a Honda CRX.

Noise is all it is.

[caffeine]

The FRS isn't what I would call a fast car but it's probably one of those cars that feels fast... Sorta like a Honda CRX.

[caffeine]

Ya it's gotta be embarrassing when your brand new sports car can't beat a 25+ year old commuter car haha.

[1988GTU]

It's funny how these people are COMPLETELY SURE they can outrun any older car. Then they take it SO HARD when they lose.

That's why it's so much fun!!!

If and when that day should come to where it no longer gives me motivation to mod these types of vehicles will be the day I probably will revoke my own DL.

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

I remember doing a pull with a new FRS a year or so ago in my Fiero. Wasn't even a competition .

Yeah. I imagine not! A 3500 in a Fiero is the classis "little car big engine" setup!

It's funny how these people are COMPLETELY SURE they can outrun any older car. Then they take it SO HARD when they lose.

That's why it's so much fun!!!

[caffeine]

I remember doing a pull with a new FRS a year or so ago in my Fiero. Wasn't even a competition .

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

I would have liked to seen the look on his face.

Couldn't see it. He was too far back.....

I could see him angrily flashing his one remaining functional high beam light at me.