Tuning a 93 3.4 Firebird

[robertisaar]

more or less, that should be all that's necessary...

i may have added steps in without realizing it.

[tkoforpresident]

maybe i overcomplicated it???

wouldn't be the first time.

lol let's hope so.

If it's anything like v4, all you have to do is select the correct com port and your good to go.

[robertisaar]

maybe i overcomplicated it???

wouldn't be the first time.

[tkoforpresident]

chip burned and battery charged!

btw, v5 doesn't seem to have all that "configure plug in" stuff like you said, just the basic "com port" select menu. Unless i have to be hooked up to the car before that will show up? Or will it work simply by selecting the com port and not doing all that configure stuff?

[tkoforpresident]

got em thx. I'll try out all that bull honkey with the com ports and let u know.

[robertisaar]

http://tunerpro.net/downloadBinDefs.htm

A1 is a few screens down and should have a couple of V5 ONLY tags above them.

worst case, Ctrl + F $A1

[tkoforpresident]

umm i don't think you missed anything, thanks.

but now i have to go and TRY all that you've said and see if i have any issues lol

so this book is not closed so to speak.

can you send me the adx or xdf files that i need to my email addy? or show me where i can download them (unzipped)

thanks

[robertisaar]

finding your com port: assuming it's the same as vista

start button, right-click on computer, properties, device manager, select ports(assuming your cable is plugged in) and it should be listed.

then in tunerpro: mark has been updating it quite a bit lately, the newest version uses plug-ins or something, but you'll open V5, click tools, preferences, go to the data aquisition tab, use plug in, click configure plug-in component, select standard serial, then choose the com port(if it doesn't show up, your cable probably isn't plugged in, or there is another issue).

for shits and giggles, press test with the car end of the cable unplugged. if it passes, grats, it will probably work.

datalogging is easier than V4: press Ctrl + F4 and just press the record button when you want the log started, press stop when you want it to, then give it a name and save it somewhere.

all of this is assuming you already have the ADX loaded, which BTW, mark just uploaded the newest versions of my A1 ADX and XDF today.

did i miss anything?

[tkoforpresident]

we need to talk about something important.

Using v5 to datalog (which i haven't yet) with a laptop that has windows 7.

I need to know the "com port select process" (both for finding it in windows 7 and inputting it in v5)

hopefully the steps will be similar to using v4 with vista.

also, whats the steps for datalogging with this setup?

-connect aldl cable to vehicle and laptop
- start up tunerpro v5
-go to datalog menu (or data acqs menu) and hit "connect"
- can i just hit record after that or will i have to have it "save log to file" before hitting record?

thanks!

[robertisaar]

the "O2 Ready" should come up before it hits closed loop.

if the coolant temp reaches the minimum for closed loop, and the O2 isn't ready, and the closed loop timer has run out, there is another timer that gets engaged, if it runs out before the O2 reaches a READY state, then an error code will get set.

if that happens, you will NEED a heated O2 or need to lengthen the timers or raise the minimum coolant temp, or any combination of the three.

AFR and timing also changes the rate at which the O2 will heat up, but not as much as the other three...

[tkoforpresident]

thanks. So wait for closed loop and a (i'm assuming Green or Black) "READY"

[robertisaar]

O2 status will say either READY or NOT READY. probably red text for not ready.

[tkoforpresident]

sounds good. you can watch the 'Loop Status' and 'O2 Sensor Status' flags in the item list to know when it's ready to correct for O2. if it keeps dropping in and out of closed loop, the O2 can't stay hot enough.

ah, that is good to know. I know to look for "ClOSED" loop mode but what will the "02 Sensor Status" say?

It will be interesting to see if i will have to switch over to a heated o2 sensor or not based off of this experiment. Let's hope not...

[robertisaar]

sounds good. you can watch the 'Loop Status' and 'O2 Sensor Status' flags in the item list to know when it's ready to correct for O2. if it keeps dropping in and out of closed loop, the O2 can't stay hot enough.

[tkoforpresident]

so here's the plan.

I recharge the battery, burn the new .bin, install both into the bird and start her up. Then once in closed loop mode I'll watch the dash values for the BLM and INT while adjusting the fuel pressure accordingly. Once they are at or close to 128 I'll disconnect the vacuum hose for the FPR and record the #. Once i record it I can set the psi back to 43.5 in preparation for the change to the BPC that will be made based off of that psi value.

Then, if the engine runs well enough not to die out I'll attemp the "idle relearn procedure" which includeds putting it in drive as well as other things that simply wouldn't work before.

At this point I'll go ahead and log some v5 sessions and see what changes are to be made.

If this new way of tuning does not end up helping at all i've decided to revert back to the comp 260H camshaft and use the new 18.2lb/hr injectors that i have cleaned and ready to go. Without having to touch the heads/headers I could probably knock out the cam install in 2 days or so. With that cam and those injectors I think tuning will be made MUCH easier. Especially since the "original iron head .bin" that John has created will probably run that setup right off the bat without any changes.