CPS wheel diameter?

[grimmcs]

I was just wondering if anyone knew the diameter and thickness of the CPS wheel that the 60*V6 Store sells? Thanks

[CNCguy]

I was just wondering if anyone knew the diameter and thickness of the CPS wheel that the 60*V6 Store sells? Thanks

It's just under 6 + 1/8' diameter and 1/4" thick.

[grimmcs]

How important is it to get the diameter the exact same? I cant see a big problem, but I just wanted to ask before I tried this.

[bszopi]

Here is a CAD drawing I did awhile back that models the stock reluctor wheel on the crank.



Might be some help if you are looking to fab your own. Not to steal business away from Marc, but it sounds like you've already made up your mind.

[ForcedFirebird]

How important is it to get the diameter the exact same? I cant see a big problem, but I just wanted to ask before I tried this.

I would think it is more important to get the angles between the notches correct, than the diameter. Although, one would thin that the larger wheel would be more accurate.

Are you planning on trying to make your own?

Brad and Marc, how does the store model bolt on? I see it has a keyway for the woodriff key on the crank, but does it go behind/in front of the balancer?

[grimmcs]

This would be going on my Camaro. The wheel in the kit that is sold here wont work for me. There are 4 bolts on my crank pully where the one sold here has 3. And this will be mounted between the harmonic balancer and the crank pully. If its possible to make this work through PMs and emails I would buy the whole kit from him.
I was thinking about buying the sensor mount and having someone near me cut a wheel. I dont know which way would be easier. Im just checking out my options.

[bszopi]

The store unit doesn't have a keyway, and it bolts to the front of the damper. The CAD drawing I did has the keyway to show how the notches are placed with the keyway as a crank reference point.

[grimmcs]

Brad and Marc, how does the store model bolt on?

I believe its made for the full 3500 swap. Not the best pic, but I believe it bolts to the crank pulley.

[ForcedFirebird]

This would be going on my Camaro. The wheel in the kit that is sold here wont work for me. There are 4 bolts on my crank pully where the one sold here has 3. And this will be mounted between the harmonic balancer and the crank pully. If its possible to make this work through PMs and emails I would buy the whole kit from him.
I was thinking about buying the sensor mount and having someone near me cut a wheel. I dont know which way would be easier. Im just checking out my options.

You can't convert ot a FWD pulley (or crank if needed)?


EDIT: Also with a CNC program, it wouldn't take much to change it for the RWD bolt spacing.

[bszopi]

There are 4 bolts on my crank pully where the one sold here has 3. And this will be mounted between the harmonic balancer and the crank pully.

It would be easy to drill the plate for the 4 bolt holes. The question then would be would it be able to work between your balancer and pulley.

[grimmcs]

I was actually wondering about notching my stock balancer. Would that throw off the balancer? Something like this with my stock pulley in front...


If I were to swap to the FWD pulley I would have to bring all the other pulleys closer to the block, or swap over to all FWD stuff. I was just looking at something somewhat easy.

It would be easy to drill the plate for the 4 bolt holes. The question then would be would it be able to work between your balancer and pulley.

I dont know if the bolts are the same distance to the center bolt.

[ForcedFirebird]

It would be easy to drill the plate for the 4 bolt holes. The question then would be would it be able to work between your balancer and pulley.

Drilling them by hand, and being perfectly centered isn't easy. With mill is a different story.

As far as working between the balancer and pulley, the accy's would probably need to be shimed out to match.

I think perhaps one could be developed to bolt on the outside of the pulley, although there would be a lot of waste in the machining process.

[grimmcs]

As far as working between the balancer and pulley, the accy's would probably need to be shimed out to match.

I think perhaps one could be developed to bolt on the outside of the pulley, although there would be a lot of waste in the machining process.

Yeah Ive talked to SixShooter about this whole subject. He told me about the shims needed for the accys. Im looking for something that could be done easy.
Im going to have to find out if I can notch the balancer safely.

[ForcedFirebird]

A FWD crank can also be used. You would only have to find a way to mount the sensor in the RWD block. When I gat the 3.4, I want to look further into this. Six and I also have had coversations about it, and he said he checked it out, and didn't want to weld to the cast block. This was the main reason once I knew I needed to rebuild, decided to get a 3.4 while I was at it.

[grimmcs]

Ive also thought about putting in the 3.4 block for the crank sensor hole, but there are no 3.4 blocks around me(still a couple JYs to check), I have a set of 3100 pistons, and I kinda want to keep my block for some reason. I might still do the 3.4 but Im just checking my options right now. Plus my dad is having a fun enough time with body parts cluttering up his garage, I dont really want to put a block in there too.