Dropping Subframe

[AleroB888]

Alero subframe

That sucker's pretty heavy, too.

[pocket-rocket]

Except yours isn't at as bad of an angle due to the rear wheels being up on ramps.

And John's trees didn't crap on the ground like Bob's. I need to move to Florida. I hear they usually don't get any snow either...

[ForcedFirebird]

And John's trees didn't crap on the ground like Bob's. I need to move to Florida. I hear they usually don't get any snow either...

You would have access to a shop as well if you did :P

Our trees crap on the ground, but usually from wind, they don't go bare here.

[pocket-rocket]

You would have access to a shop as well if you did :P

Our trees crap on the ground, but usually from wind, they don't go bare here.

Hmmm, now if that shop paid me to work on stuff that wasn't mine, I might actually have to consider this...

[eckoxl]

That sucker's pretty heavy, too.

How did you do that?

[pocket-rocket]

How did you do that?

I see a lift post close by without the legs. If I had to guess, I would say the legs are occupied with holding a car up above that subframe. At least that looks like a lift post to me.

[AleroB888]

I see a lift post close by without the legs. If I had to guess, I would say the legs are occupied with holding a car up above that subframe. At least that looks like a lift post to me.

That's right, and it still took 4 guys to lower the subframe down safely because we didn't have the means to support it when the car was raised high. To a great extent, the steps in the Haynes manual can be followed.

But the biggest PITA so far was putting the steering U-joint coupler back together, because the pieces that mate together are in the middle of the rubber boot where you can't get to them. Is there some special tool to reassemble this?

Now I have to hope the airbag doesn't go off.

I have experienced mechanics doing much of this project for/with me, but still, this is a ton of work.

[ForcedFirebird]

But the biggest PITA so far was putting the steering U-joint coupler back together, because the pieces that mate together are in the middle of the rubber boot where you can't get to them. Is there some special tool to reassemble this?

Now I have to hope the airbag doesn't go off.

Yeah, that is sometimes, it's funny you mention that because the last FWD motor swap I did (Dodge Stratus) they just happen to lign up perfect when jacking the subframe up!

I work alone most of the time and use a creeper, the lift and ramps/jack stands.


Airbag should be fine as long as your steering wheel didn't turn past 180*

[bob442]

That's right, and it still took 4 guys to lower the subframe down safely because we didn't have the means to support it when the car was raised high. To a great extent, the steps in the Haynes manual can be followed.

But the biggest PITA so far was putting the steering U-joint coupler back together, because the pieces that mate together are in the middle of the rubber boot where you can't get to them. Is there some special tool to reassemble this?

Now I have to hope the airbag doesn't go off.

I have experienced mechanics doing much of this project for/with me, but still, this is a ton of work.

whats the holes in the hood for? and how come you didnt just drop the subframe on 4 jack stands and lift the car with the subframe suppourted by jackstands?

[AleroB888]

whats the holes in the hood for? and how come you didnt just drop the subframe on 4 jack stands and lift the car with the subframe suppourted by jackstands?

We didn't have jackstands, just one floor jack and the hand-crank fork-lift type jack you see there on the left in the pic with the tranny on it. It did support the front of the subframe, but we did not have the kind of low profile jack that could support the subframe, yet be able to move it around and position it under the car.

Holes in the hood are vents, for M62 and intercooler.

[onefastV6]

Interesting that this was brought up, as I was working out in the garage yesterday cleaning up around the project car and I decided to drop the sub frame. My engine and trans are already out along with all the suspension including control arms, but I want to pull the sub frame clean it up and repaint it.

Looks like I am going to need high rise jack stands if I want to assemble the new engine and trans on the sub frame and then slide it under.

[pocket-rocket]

Interesting that this was brought up, as I was working out in the garage yesterday cleaning up around the project car and I decided to drop the sub frame. My engine and trans are already out along with all the suspension including control arms, but I want to pull the sub frame clean it up and repaint it.

Looks like I am going to need high rise jack stands if I want to assemble the new engine and trans on the sub frame and then slide it under.

The van I worked on wasn't too bad to do this with. I used ~8" tall cribbing and normal jack stands. I had to remove the one strut/knuckle assembly, but I left the subframe with the engine/tranny on it on the hoist legs and used that to slide the whole shebang under the van through the wheel well opening before hooking the chain to the engine/tranny and pulling all 3 back up to the van. It actually worked out really well.

[bob442]

you know guys, someone should modify a montecarlo or impala subframe to fit a N body. there ALUMINUM! weight reduction=faster slips common guys step up the game

[pocket-rocket]

What years did the aluminum Monte frames start? I wonder if they fit a first gen W...

[bob442]

2000+ in monte carlo's and impala's, but not in alot of GP's i'm looking into it now, theres some talk on (i hope i dont get banned for using these numbers) 3 8 00 forums about them being a bolt in deal into aleros and n bodies. I can't find a picture though, but they would be very easy to modify to work, its all plate and square stock aluminum. get some aluminum wire to mock it up and drop it off to someone to tig up if nessisary. the weight difference is 22 lbs. also, there is Cast steel and aluminum knuckles which would probably save 20 lbs too! i'm gonna swap them into my monte in the spring. They came on 4 door GP's 99+

If guys pay $900 for a tube subframe for an f body to save 20 lbs or soo, and there 30% stronger, i think this is worth the $200 investment and time to swap. Also everyone is saying on other forums there stronger than the steel too.