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  • carbon
    replied
    Whelp, it F#@& happened again. The power steering rack took a dump on the van, there goes my dreams of a 3500 cam for at least another 6 months...

    WOT-Tech will be out of business before I get anywhere...

    Leave a comment:


  • Mars
    replied
    I bought a really really nice cam bearing install tool on ebay. Does every single engine you can ever imagine.

    Used it once for my 3900 cam bearings / spacers, now it sits in the shed, but whatever, I know where it is when I need it next. Was around 200$.

    Leave a comment:


  • Superdave
    replied
    The Comp 26915 springs fit on the stock spring seats, no need for LS1's.

    They are a little tight but once the paint wears down they're fine. That's how my 3500 was set up and I had 0 issues.



    Have a shop put in the bearings, it's like $30 and you know it's done right.

    Leave a comment:


  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    Originally posted by carbon View Post
    Yeah, I looked it up on YouTube... apparently you only make good howto videos if you're working on a V8...
    True dat... Or an import guy. Was tempted to say ricer, but there are a few that actually build for performance, not just throw a fart pipe on their car.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • caffeine
    replied
    Originally posted by carbon View Post
    Cause that's what Ben sells in his stage two cam kit... no other reason. Other than fit is there a benefit one way or the other?
    IIRC the 26986 can handle a bit more lift but have a lower RPM limit. For stage two I would think they would be fine. I rev mine to 6800 on a regular basis, sometimes 7000.

    Leave a comment:


  • carbon
    replied
    Originally posted by ericjon262 View Post
    I can't speak on the timing set. as far as the cam bearings, you need special tools to install them properly. that being said, I'm sure there's a backwoods way to install them and get the job done. as far as importance, if you already in that deep, do it. if you're just tossing a cam in and hitting the streets, I wouldn't worry about it.
    Yeah, I looked it up on YouTube... apparently you only make good howto videos if you're working on a V8...

    Leave a comment:


  • carbon
    replied
    Originally posted by caffeine View Post
    Why run the 26915 springs? The 26986 springs drop right in with no changes and I've been running them with the stock '06 3500 timing chain for 10,000 kms.
    Cause that's what Ben sells in his stage two cam kit... no other reason. Other than fit is there a benefit one way or the other?

    Leave a comment:


  • fat rabbit
    replied
    I know the stock cam journals are .70 inches wide and stock cam bearings are .61-.62 inches wide(non calibrated digital caliper) but the stock cam bearings don't cover the whole cam journal by almost a tenth of an inch, I know when my cam was on the verge of snapping in half(I still have the old cam) the journals were grooved in like the bearings were grinding into them.

    I don't know how wide the SBC cam bearings are though, I blamed my cam wiping out on poor oiling from the 96 block casting valleys and slow coolant ingestion over its 16 year life. I know the stock replacement cam bearings have been revised but I don't know what or why they were revised, they are pricey compared to SBC cam bearing though.

    I would stay with stock cam bearings but that's just me, you'll need a SBC cam install tool that is more expensive then having a machine shop install unless you plan on changing out cam bearings in the future. Just make sure that the oiling holes are facing the right direction if you have a machine shop do it.

    Leave a comment:


  • caffeine
    replied
    Why run the 26915 springs? The 26986 springs drop right in with no changes and I've been running them with the stock '06 3500 timing chain for 10,000 kms.

    Leave a comment:


  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    I bought a SBC bearing tool on eBay fairly cheap a few years ago for a 3400 I was working on. It was a cheap quality one as well, but you get what you pay for and it got the job done, so I didn't complain.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • ericjon262
    replied
    I can't speak on the timing set. as far as the cam bearings, you need special tools to install them properly. that being said, I'm sure there's a backwoods way to install them and get the job done. as far as importance, if you already in that deep, do it. if you're just tossing a cam in and hitting the streets, I wouldn't worry about it.

    Leave a comment:


  • carbon
    replied


    I have since sold the 3400 on the floor and now have a 3500 on a stand. PROGRESS!

    Every time I get excited about my project car... I have another kid (2 now, 1 when I posted), I need to find a new job (3rd in 1.5yrs.), need to move for new job (renting out old house), new gutters on the house (not cheap DIY), insurance deductible for new roof (F'ing hail)... and on and on and on... money, money, money...

    How important are the wider SBC cam bearings and is it possible do this in my garage or better for a machine shop to install? Special tools?

    What exactly is the work needed to run the WOT-Tech Stage 2 cam and LS1 seats (26915 springs) in a 3500? Looks like Ben can do the mods to the seats for $15 at the time of purchase? No other mods to the head or other parts required?

    I plan on finding a small port timing set, will the Stage 2 cam take it's toll on the timing set or do you need a wilder cam than this to become a problem?
    Last edited by carbon; 11-07-2013, 10:58 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Monzsta
    replied
    Originally posted by Monzsta View Post
    Ported heads and a tune, as well as a K&n and 2.5" exhaust are all the mods I have. I've been trying to get it to the dyno for a shit and a giggle, but turning a 9.72 in the 1/8 mile with a 3500 lb car probably puts me near 200 whp

    Case in point: A stock Series II 3.8 SC usually dyno's 200-240 at the wheels and I can walk them lightly from a roll. From a dig my 3600 stall converter doesn't give them any hope. A GTP is comparable in weight to my Lumina.
    EDIT: for reference sake, I did manage to get 150 wheel horsepower on a DynoJet dyno with this combo. Little late, I know.

    Leave a comment:


  • mongo
    replied
    I (and all the machinists I know) have always used the term "Base Horsepower" when referring to the measurement at the crank as that is your starting point after which all other factors (drive train, rotating assemblies, brake drag, ect) diminish from that initial base reading. It appears now that most guys are using the term "Brake Horsepower" as dynometer is also technically known as a "friction brake".

    Leave a comment:


  • mickaz
    replied
    why reaching for an Horspower figure?? If your modifing a 3400 it's for the Torque.

    Leave a comment:

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