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  • Classick Century Custom
    replied
    Actually there from Pacesetter and they work fine they were application built which shocked the shit out of me seeing that this is not your everyday type of platform to work on but hey who cares to each his own I always say, I know for sure I'm the only one out here with this type of build and its gonna be a nasty one when I am finished mwahahahahahah!!!!...., as far as the milling goes I am thinking the .20 is a safe bet like you said just to ensure a clean flat surface.

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  • Rootie524
    replied
    you got S&S headers or did you custom fab some? and what are the specs on your exhaust?

    and im no pro at milling stuff..but from what i have been reading and have been told .020" or whatever it is..either that or .20" seems to be the best bet. dont want to do too much because then the valve to piston clearance gets messed up..then you need different gaskets..and blah blah blah. but .020" is what i want to do. gets just enough off to clean it up and boost compression ever so slightly. you may want to get a second opinion from ben himself or another knowledgeable person on the forums..there are plenty of them. lol

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  • Classick Century Custom
    replied
    Century Custom and thats exactly what I am planning as well, then over the winter I plan on starting a 3400 turbo build or at some point anyway.

    As far as the motor now I'm doing the gaskets pushrods and yea I guess the manleys as you mentioned. I already have the Intake, Headers and Exhaust finished, now its time to bump up the cam and heads and yea the upper and lower will be done once BEN stocks more of the 65m TB.

    Oh btw with the milling what is the best suggestion for my setup??, I had chosen .20 but I only wanna do whats needed so I am not spending money on shit I don't need, so please tell if you can which milling selection would be best...
    Last edited by Classick Century Custom; 04-07-2010, 10:13 PM.

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  • Rootie524
    replied
    idk how much money you have to spend on this but i would definitely opt for the manley retainers and obviously your going to need the head bolts and a gasket set. and either now or down the road because they are easy to get to..you should consider the competition series ported LIM and UIM set with either a 62 or 65mm throttle body. at that point you should probably start thinking about bigger injectors too to match the now drastically increased air flow.

    that's basically everything im doing..so we are going to have close to the same engine if you do all that. What car do you have?

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  • Classick Century Custom
    replied
    This is what I speced out for the heads, Competition Ported 3100 Cylinder Heads
    I will send the parts first: No
    Retainers: Stock
    Valve Springs: Comp 26986
    Valves: Stock 3500
    Valve Job: Under .550" Lift
    Additional Information:

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  • Classick Century Custom
    replied
    Originally posted by Rootie524 View Post
    from my understanding it will work fine you just wont get it up to its full potential is all. still gonna be great gains..and your doing what im doing too with the supporting mods of the heads..good stuff. i hope your getting new springs, lifter springs, and pushrods too and while your in there get the manley retainers and 3500 valves! you won't regret it..haha.
    Thanks bro so along with what I am already planning what else that you mentioned should I pick up please list so I can give it to BEN when I place my order. thanks much!

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  • Rootie524
    replied
    from my understanding it will work fine you just wont get it up to its full potential is all. still gonna be great gains..and your doing what im doing too with the supporting mods of the heads..good stuff. i hope your getting new springs, lifter springs, and pushrods too and while your in there get the manley retainers and 3500 valves! you won't regret it..haha.

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  • Classick Century Custom
    replied
    Not to throw this topic off by any means but since its sorta on point, will the WOT strip cam work with my 9.5 cr?.... I'm gonna purchase the Comp Heads and the Strip for my 3100 motor as we talked about and I noticed it mentioned 9.5 to 11.5 cr compatible. Can anyone back that up just so I am 100% sure. Thanks Steve!!!

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  • Rootie524
    replied
    did you notice what im going through at first? crap performance and crap gas mileage? and did you get your VE tune right away? i guess i should..because it might be awhile before i can do anything else.

    and i just looked at your cardomain. i must say..very nice dude. you really went all out! i want your engine! haha. That's what i want to do though..get a 3400 block and just build it block up then swap it in. Do you live close to Mark that you could just take the whole block to him or did you ship it? and what kind of numbers are you throwing down at the track? do you have aim or something? im really curious about you alero..haha

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  • mfuller
    replied
    Your cam specs are pretty close to mine (.323/.337 lobe lift, 212/220 degrees duration @ .050"). You really should get at least a VE tune before putting a bunch of miles on it. Ideally, get all of your hard part upgrades done and tune immediately - but having a cam really throws things off and you should not wait.

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  • Rootie524
    replied
    my car now eats through gas and doesnt give me much performance. im guessing that the VE that your all talking about.

    i need a tune..but pretty soon in the future im porting the heads, new valves, ported LIM and UIM and bigger injectors. so why would i get it tuned now if im going to get it tuned in the future. where im going is 100/hr dyno & tuning..im guessing about 2 solid hours. one for VE then one for power. So i dont want to do that twice.

    is it safe to drive the car as it is now?

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  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    Yes, it's "burned into" the computer at that point once it's written to the PCM, until the next time it's overwritten.

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  • Rootie524
    replied
    and when you tune..it's permanent..right? its not like i disconnect the battery and its gone..dumb questions but im just making sure.

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  • SappySE107
    replied
    Anyone that has a dyno and sells tuning service should know what they are doing, but its not always the case. VE tune. Make sure they have a load bearing dyno so that they can hold a speed and record steady state conditions. Tuning for power is last.

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  • Rootie524
    replied
    so is that still under VE? like what should i tell the dyno people or will they know what to do

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