Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

the Gran Damn

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
    ericjon262
    build it.

  • ericjon262
    replied
    it was looped for two reasons, one, equal length, and 2, because it was a little easier to package that way. in theory, it should smooth the pulses as the merge in the Y pipe since it's an even fire engine, which should make better use of the stock piping diameter from the Y back. I was going to finish up the Y pipe today, but elected to work on the Fiero instead. tomorrow, I'll either finish the pipe, or finish what I started on the Fiero.

    I'm really curious how the whole car will perform when I'm done with all of this... Heads, intake, exhaust, a few other things... the Five speed, new swaybars, ball joints, tierods, struts... it'll be a new car!

    Leave a comment:

  • SappySE107
    WOT-Tech

  • SappySE107
    replied
    Got a nice metal forming tool on the back of the truck Are you looping the rear exhaust for the angle, equal length, or? I don't know what the U turn is stock but I remember reading people getting rid of something on the stock 3900 G6 setups.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1QUICKHATCH
    replied
    I think the exhaust setup should help quite a bit over the stock manifolds. I'm thinking of using both front and rear G6 manifolds with a custom crossover and Y on my Grand Am.

    Leave a comment:

  • ericjon262
    build it.

  • ericjon262
    replied
    not a ton of progress I welded the trans mount to the frame, I may add a support to the underside, because I had to cut down part of the rear gusset to fit the LCA bolt in. I started laying out the new brake lines, and was starting to get super frustrated, it took an embarrassingly long time for me to figure out the issue. The reman front right line is two pieces instead of one, and they sent me two of the caliper side, and not one of the ABS module side... I emailed inline tube, and they sent me the correct part.




    this is the flange for the rear pipe, notice the huge gap between the pipe and the flange? filling it with weld was an option, but I had a trick to try first...



    I slipped the end of the pipe onto a 2" hitch ball, gave it a few good whacks with a hammer...



    TA-DA! no more gap.




    I started by extending the front pipe back, then carefully made a rear pipe to meet up with it.



    unfortunately, the new rear pipe didn't clear the heat shield that I had neglected to install when I made it....so I cut it apart and started over...

    after paying more attention to the spatial constraints imposed by the heat shield, I came up with this:



    overall, it's very similar to what I had before, just repositioned, and slightly longer than the previous. ideally, I wanted both head pipes to be the same length, or somewhat close, at this point, the front is a few inches longer, maybe 3-4, but much closer than stock.

    by balancing the pipe lengths, the exhaust pulses should merge with each other a little bit better, and minimize "crowding" in the rest of the exhaust past the Y pipe. I don't expect this to make a significant performance improvement, but I suspect it will change the tone of the exhaust some. my current plan is to y them together at the current end of the rear pipe, and tie them into the factory exhaust which should be close by.

    Leave a comment:

  • ericjon262
    build it.

  • ericjon262
    replied
    I think I'm pleased with this. if need be, I can add a gusset to the bottom of the frame side mount, I'm not sure that's necessary though. the last step will be to weld the frame side mount to the subframe.













    Leave a comment:

  • ericjon262
    build it.

  • ericjon262
    replied
    engine mount progress, I decided I didn't want to put forth that much effort for the front engine mount, so I adapted a 4x4 truck transmission mount. this should be a faster, easier, and cheaper solution.





    I did a bug dumb on the engine mount, after drilling the holes for the "studs" I went to put the M12 bolts in, and they didn't fit, so I redrilled, and they fit, but they're supposed to be M10... DOH! I'll drill out the other side to accommodate the larger bolts, assuming this will actually fit the car. I might actually remake the mount in steel that I can cut on the Plasma cutter so that I can produce copies.

    it's also worth mentioning that the middle mount hole is pretty much useless. as it's currently configured, I'll have to pick whether to tighten the middle bolt, or the two bolts attaching the mount to the engine, and I think we all know which one makes more sense to omit.

    trans mount progress:

    concept:



    reality





    I've been playing around with the chassis side of the mount, it's a little more difficult, as there's no flat space to mount it to.

    I think I'm going to cut the mount off here to maximize access to the lower control arm mount. I'll make a box around the bushing to provide better support



    The front edge of the "box" will extend towards the front of the subframe. it should be plenty strong, but also not something the average idiot can do to their car. if i get to a point of producing the mounts, it will have to be explicitly clear that it's not an easy 1-2-3 install.



    I should invest in a good contour gauge....

    Leave a comment:

  • bszopi
    Site Coder

  • bszopi
    replied
    Definitely a cool build that I will keep an eye on!

    Leave a comment:

  • SappySE107
    WOT-Tech

  • SappySE107
    replied
    That mount looks almost like the one I was selling for a bit for the grand am

    Leave a comment:

  • ericjon262
    build it.

  • ericjon262
    replied
    not mush to update, I've been working my tail off filling in the pool, and fixing a blown headgasket on a 2.2 S10 for my brother. I did mock up the powertrain on the cradle, I need to make one more mount to go under the tail end of the transmission, but the other two mounts appear to be spot on. I did have to make custom sleeves for the poly bushings, as they were designed for a 9/16" bolt, and the transmission mounts use 12 mm bolts. if I get to the point of production, I'll need to find a better solution.



    Hopefully the S10 head will be back from the machine shop tomorrow or Tuesday, once I have the head back, I should be able to button up the S10 with a quickness. and then I can spend more time on this garbage.

    Leave a comment:

  • ericjon262
    build it.

  • ericjon262
    replied
    I decided the swap mounts were getting a bit complicated the way I was trying to make them, so I started over, this will make them lighter, but they will use non-OEM bushings, which I'm not wild about.



    I remeasured everything and my boltholes match now





    I also got a new, not beat up heat shield for the front manifold, and crossover. The valve covers were temp removed for paint.



    seeing the intake and valve covers painted and pretty makes me almost want to take the LIM off and paint it... I might just fog the ends that are partially visible. I'll paint the transmission when I pull it off to install the clutch and flywheel.

    My engine mount was in pretty sad shape, part of it was broken in half, so I decided to draw up a replacement. there will be DOM sleeves welded into the holes, and then a saddle over the top that bolt to the engine. I'm not going to draw it out any further until I have the poly inserts for the sleeves though, I'd hate to put more work in and find out the sleeves don't match my measurements.

    Leave a comment:

  • ericjon262
    build it.

  • ericjon262
    replied
    Originally posted by 1QUICKHATCH View Post
    Looks good! Very interested to see how the exhaust works out for you.
    we'll see soon enough... I ordered a bunch of mandrel bends earlier.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1QUICKHATCH
    replied
    Looks good! Very interested to see how the exhaust works out for you.

    Leave a comment:

  • ericjon262
    build it.

  • ericjon262
    replied
    Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
    Any issues with the thermostat housing setup and these manifolds? Good thing you can cut out material and test fit easy enough
    it doesn't look like I'll have any issues yet, I do want to put the other heat shield on before I say it's not a problem though. the crossover pipe is pretty close to the transmission fill though.





    earlier today I picked up a heat shield for the rear manifold, and a flange for the rear collector. I also dropped an order for a LX5 TB adapter, and modified a throttle bracket. I have a few little things I need to get from the junkyard, and I need to work on some kind of exhaust before I try and put it back in the car.

    Leave a comment:

  • SappySE107
    WOT-Tech

  • SappySE107
    replied
    Any issues with the thermostat housing setup and these manifolds? Good thing you can cut out material and test fit easy enough

    Leave a comment:

  • ericjon262
    build it.

  • ericjon262
    replied
    I've been working on getting this heap back together, and made some good progress. The engine is mostly reassembled, but I need to pull the oil pan to install a new pan gasket. the lifters seemed really gummy, I took them apart and cleaned them.



    I got the plasma back up and running, I cut the parts of the transmission mounts out of some thin sheetmetal I had in the shop. The CNC didn't seem to like the thin stuff, the arc would blow through and the machine would cut off after piercing. I found setting the pierce delay lover helped some, but I think I needed to reset the plasma cutter to think it's cutting perforated material.



    I bolted the trans to the engine, and saw that the exhaust manifold definitely wasn't going to work with that mount. since I have more invested in the manifold than I do the mount, I'll rework the mount.



    The middle and rear lower studs are way back behind the manifold, and really hard to get to. I hope I never need to take this apart in the car...



    I also found that either the steel moved, or I measured the rear mount wrong. I'll need to investigate this further.



    I might see if I can find a new heat shield for the manifold, this one is a little dinged up, but it's a nice touch that will keep the heat more well contained. I need to find one for the rear manifold still.



    I pulled the front subframe out of the car, I found that the steering rack was in kinda poor shape, and the hoses have seen better days. it's all accessible now, so I'm going to put it back together with new parts. since I'll need an alignment either way, I'll throw new outer tierods in too.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X