Thanks folks. I'll be back on it Sunday. A friend suggested dropping the starter again and testing it w/o the shims or flywheel load. It was a pain swapping out the starter cause of the oil cooler. Really don't wanna mess with that again. It was also suggested that the ground for the block might be the culprit. It's pretty green so I'll be replacing that too
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Starter issues
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I second the ignition switch.
I've had one fail in one of my cars to where power to accessories stayed on after turning off the key, then the next day losing power to accessories (and losing gauges because of it) while driving down the road. I've also replaced quite a few later model (late 90s, early 2k) GM ignition switches back when I was working on cars while laid off.
I would put money on throwing a multimeter on the start lead of the starter and getting less than 10v when attempting to crank.Last edited by pocket-rocket; 09-18-2015, 06:27 PM.
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worn out ignition switch?
if you can manually engage the starter consistently(apply 12V to the solenoid wire through a ~10 guage wire off of the battery or aux + terminal), that will rule out the starter, solenoid and the starter motor +/ground connections, then you'll be down to the starter solenoid wire and ignition switch... I can't think of much else that would cause something like this.
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Starter issues
Ok, I recently replaced the starter in my 91 Z34 because the old one would only start sometimes. Then it stopped all together. When I replaced it, it started out ok but then began to click one time when I'd turn the key. I'd have to sit and turn the key 5-10 times before it would. Thinking was a faulty starter again, I replaced it. Same thing. Any ideas? New starter, new cable to starter, newer battery...
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