Well the bin I started with was 19lb injectors... so I took that divided it into my current injectors and got the ratio... then multiplied that by the current BIN IFR or ms/gram value that's in the ecu. Just remember the number in the ECU will DROP not go up... Seeing how it's time per gram of fuel... larger injectors flow 1 gram much quicker.
I also have some charts that are supposed to give you proper scaled rates for fuel pressure related to flow... I have mine scaled like the newer ECU's even though my original bin had a static value for all map ranges. I feel it ends up with a better tune if you tell it the injectors are flowing less at idle vs WOT because of the fuel pressure change.
I'll double check my worksheet and see if I can get it up here for you to use.
first start tune...
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I take it by injector constant, you mean the injector flow rate? how did you calculate it? I'm having trouble getting the car to idle at all, got to have my foot on the throttle to keep it running. Logs show it's running rich as fuck.Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View PostBiggest thing I belive is to make sure your injector values are correct, or close enough to allow the ECU to make the engine run using the STFT and LTFT... If you don't have the injectors right then there will be no way it can correct for that change AND flow changes.
I ran my 3400 with the cam on my slight tune and it was fine, Granted the VE and MAF tables needed a lot of work after but with the injector constant correct it was able to start and run and warm up to break everything in.
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Originally posted by caffeine View PostAgreed. For startup adjust for injectors (don't forget lag times too!!! Essential for big injectors) and it should run and idle pretty decently
Do you know where Lag times would be listed in DHP or tiny tuner?
Thanks-
Eric
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awesome, thanks. once I get this heap running, anyone want to help me get the tune figured out?
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Agreed. For startup adjust for injectors (don't forget lag times too!!! Essential for big injectors) and it should run and idle pretty decently
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Biggest thing I belive is to make sure your injector values are correct, or close enough to allow the ECU to make the engine run using the STFT and LTFT... If you don't have the injectors right then there will be no way it can correct for that change AND flow changes.
I ran my 3400 with the cam on my slight tune and it was fine, Granted the VE and MAF tables needed a lot of work after but with the injector constant correct it was able to start and run and warm up to break everything in.
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first start tune...
ok, so I am rapidly aproaching the first start of my turbo 3500 Fiero, it's really coming down to all the little things that finalize any engine swap (coolant lines, little wiring details, finding that one bolt you left in that one place a couple years ago...), and I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for things to look for/do to the tune before I try and start it. I'm running a 3100 computer, IIRC, it's a 2001 MY for a Grand am.Tags: None

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