DIY Ceramic Coating
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Here are some pics...
Only part thats flaking right now.


And the chips I did... ###### FAN! LOL

Overall shots.


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Ok, well an update, so far so good, BUT I think prep is really the biggest thing here... I might have missed the smallest spot with cleaner right on one of the welds by the collector... so far that is the only spot it has flaked, and its like a tiny spot... I also chipped the front with the fan going in... I was rather pissed about that one, but that I should be able to touch up with a q-tip and the paint, and then bake that back on... the Q-Tip works good because after that you polish it so you sort of take down any unevenness... I'm gonna try to see ifthey polish up some more now but honestly I dont care if they stay gray like the color they turned... as long as they dont rust!
I'll get pics later today.
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I should know the answer of that one by tomorrow night if my EP LSD shows up during the day.
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Black beauty blasted them to strip all the paint off, then used Por-15 metal ready and then wiped them down with acetone before coating.... as instructed.
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Did you de-grease them with brake cleaner and rub them down first or just dish soap and water?
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This is what I got it to buffing more at work... Also was able to touch up the small spots that chipped a little due to water being under it, I just used a tooth pick, dipped it in and rubbed it on the part, worked like a charm.
Now I just hope it sticks...

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they say NOT to oven bake it, I'm not sure why, but I guess you just need to be carefull going in... yeah i know not easy.
I'm using the supplied polishing liquid that came with the kit... Nothing too special I dont think.
Now if my trans was closed up i would be able to bake this on but since I'm still shy parts I cant do that quite yet... I either have to wait for EP or leave early from work to go to the yard and buy another diff.Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 05-15-2008, 01:29 PM.
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Well as Jon above mentioned, carbon build up would likely cause a big problem. Unless maybe you could blast it all out with walnut shells to clean it first. Ever see someone make turbo manifolds from thick cast iron pipe welded up? You could do that then wrap that and who cares if it rusts it's thick! lol
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That's what im thinking, pour some of that coating inside the down pipe and swish it around and stick with the header wrap (since it's already on the down pipe). Would be great to have some turbo headers made from stainless steel, but may be awhile until someone will make any of those, because my welding buddy is too busy with his "family" to do anything for me. Pssh. Family. Okay, they come first.Originally posted by IsaacHayes View PostCeramic inside and wrap outside would be pretty darn insulated. Best would be some stainless headers like that so the wrap and water wouldn't rust em out. Then add some heat shields like stock and I bet it would be really cool under the hood.
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Oven would be best. Torch wouldn't work too well I'd guess. The wrap can hold moisture and maybe too much heat and crack the coating off? I dunno. But the coating will reduce underhood temps since it's an insulation and thus keep the exhaust gases hotter which will keep them flowing more instead of cooling off in the headers which will make them condense and slow down since condensed air is more dense/thick.
Ceramic inside and wrap outside would be pretty darn insulated. Best would be some stainless headers like that so the wrap and water wouldn't rust em out. Then add some heat shields like stock and I bet it would be really cool under the hood.
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Yeah, I was asking how to cure it not using the car method
. Take a torch to it for a few minutes?
And headerwrap + coating = no no right? What if you just coat the inside of the pipe? I'm assuming the reason they say coating+wrap=bad is because the wrap will just wear off the coating from rubbing, but if you coat the inside then it will still have the increased flow from using a coating, and have some slight under hood temp. reduction.Last edited by Z26-T; 05-14-2008, 11:59 PM.
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Air drying requires no baking, cures on car with exhaust heat.
They also have TURBO-X designed for turbo stuff..
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