Dyno'd my car - 3400 S/C

[bszopi]

Posts discussing water/meth injection have been moved to a new thread: http://60degreev6.com/forum/f108/wat...jection-t44808

[1988GTU]

The most important thing is repeatability and consistency between dyno's, so if you dyno on a dynojet once, do some mods and dyno on a dynojet again, you should be able to get an accurate measurement of any changes. Getting 100% accurate HP reading isn't really the most important thing. The most important thing is being able to read increases in HP for tuning and mods, so as long as it will do that it's fine.

True. What I have found is that people that often went to a Djet and lets say produced 400Whp with a 3000lbs car and a guy that went to a Mdyno and made 350whp in a 3500lbs car, the guy with the 350whp ends up winning the race.

[AaronGTR]

Only 12psi, nice numbers. 3400 right? Only thing I don't like is the dyno jet. Reason is that, the big debate is that a DJet reads 14% higher than a MDyno.

I've always dyno'd on dynojets and I've found them to be fairly reliable and accurate when set up properly. The most important thing is repeatability and consistency between dyno's, so if you dyno on a dynojet once, do some mods and dyno on a dynojet again, you should be able to get an accurate measurement of any changes. Getting 100% accurate HP reading isn't really the most important thing. The most important thing is being able to read increases in HP for tuning and mods, so as long as it will do that it's fine.

I'm really damned impressed it didn't start knocking when the afr's went into the 14's. That water injection must have really helped. Hope to hear the results with the better fueling soon.

I don't find that so strange. I dyno'd my car before at 9psi boost with maxed out stock injectors and my AFR got up to 14.5:1 at redline and I didn't have any detonation. And that was with no intercooler and stock timing. These motors are pretty knock resistant if you are using good fuel.

[Mars]

I figure with me in it the car is around 2950 lbs and I've trapped 120 MPH before, so it would seem the numbers are close.

Hard to tell though.

There were some stockish cars running the same day and they were all getting correct numbers (factory ratings, less 12% drivetrain loss, FWD)

Either way, I am happy, and like Eric says, the car has a hard life and I drive it as hard as I can. haha. I drive it like it owes ME money.

[Azrael]

I'm really damned impressed it didn't start knocking when the afr's went into the 14's. That water injection must have really helped. Hope to hear the results with the better fueling soon.

[1988GTU]

Only 12psi, nice numbers. 3400 right? Only thing I don't like is the dyno jet. Reason is that, the big debate is that a DJet reads 14% higher than a MDyno.

[asylummotorsports]

I have met Mars!! REALLY nice guy, but he's nuts!!

Beats the hell out of that car, and he pulls it off!

You need to see his car run. It's pretty damn impressive.

He AND Rodney will both be in the 11's come spring.

[AaronGTR]

Awesome! I've always liked the rotrex blower and wished someone had made a kit for my car using one. As it is I'd have to go custom and I see no way of fitting it in my engine bay without removing the A/C compressor.

[sil]

woot grats man !!!!

[Mars]

Very nice numbers! What kind of blower are you using? I'm assuming it must be a centrifugal of some kind with those numbers and the use of a BOV?

Definitely looks like you're running out of injector. Might be some power left up top still with more fuel. You could up the pressure a bit as a temporary fix to help the current injectors of course until you can switch them and reprogram. I wouldn't use a stock 00+ FPR though. They really aren't meant for use with boost and the stock diaphragm will fail eventually, plus they aren't a true 1:1 rising ratio under boost. I'd get a remote AFPR or the bolt on one from WOT tech, and that way you can dial it in properly.

I just "upgraded" to a 00+ FPR vs. my old 99 one tonight, why wait till next year right ??

I've never ever heard of one failing under boost though ? I only make 12 PSI max, so, the vaccum acting on diaphragm "sucks" alot harder then my boost "pushes" so I'm certain it will be fine. Also, I've been using the 99 one for a few years, no issues.

I might do the dual feed rail setup later on, but I'll just keep an eye on #6 first... actually, maybe I will just drill and tap a hole for a fuel pres. gauge right after #6 on the rail, so I'll know if it's running dry. Pretty sure it will be alright though.

I'm going to start re-tuning with Code59, the 00+ FPR and Ford Green tops (42#/hr)

I think I was around 20 - 21* total timming there, I'm sure with the meth it will take 24-26 maybe 28. I will go back and try to make the 400 WHP.

[bszopi]

What kind of blower are you using? I'm assuming it must be a centrifugal of some kind with those numbers and the use of a BOV?

Rotrex C30-94 blower / intercooled / water inj.

There you go.

[AaronGTR]

Very nice numbers! What kind of blower are you using? I'm assuming it must be a centrifugal of some kind with those numbers and the use of a BOV?

Definitely looks like you're running out of injector. Might be some power left up top still with more fuel. You could up the pressure a bit as a temporary fix to help the current injectors of course until you can switch them and reprogram. I wouldn't use a stock 00+ FPR though. They really aren't meant for use with boost and the stock diaphragm will fail eventually, plus they aren't a true 1:1 rising ratio under boost. I'd get a remote AFPR or the bolt on one from WOT tech, and that way you can dial it in properly.

[ForcedFirebird]

Awesome, man!

LOL at the BOV. Sounded like the whistle someone would give to call a dog...

[asylummotorsports]

Wow! Great work Mars!

BTW did you hear that Rodney ran 12.52 and 118 mph.

You guys are crazy!

[carbon]

Awesome... just awesome...