trading out 3400 in van?

[bszopi]

Get rid of the Bosch spark plugs, as these engines hate them. Platinum 2's might not be as bad, but +4s are worthless and cause more issues than good. Misfires on 1 & 4 make me think a coil pack, as they share the same coil. Glad everything else went good. Not sure what to say about the noise, other than I doubt its piston slap, as that only occurs when the engine is cold. Goes away as soon as the engine heats up and the pistons start expanding due to the heat.

[90210GTP]

EDIT - If you have front and rear A/C and can't make the lines work you may have to use your old oil pan in order to bolt on the older style compressor. If you could take some measurements of the mounting boss, specifically from where the pan meets the block down to the center of the bolt hole, it would be very useful for anyone in the future making this swap. A pic with a ruler up next to it would be even better!

Please. Don't tell me this could have been avoided if I had simply used my old oil pan. I've got to go now. I feel ill.

[90210GTP]

Doh! That sucks. As for the sensor in the bottom of the pan, that's the low oil warning sensor. It's almost useless anyways, since by the time it gets low enough to trip the light I'm sure your bearings and lifters will have already let you know the level is down.

As far as the sensor, it's strange, somtimes I start it and it is on and other times it is off. It does not seem to come on/off while driving. Weird! I was wondering if there was a way to jumper the connecter with a resistor or anything to fool it into staying off? Anyone have an idea?

[90210GTP]

No, it's a 3400. I just mentioned the 3500 because that was what I had read about others who had problem bolting up the bottom bolt on the compressor. Sorry to confuse.

Meanwhile, it is in. I found a few other changes. Nothing major. Temp sensor next to thermostat housing used same style connector, but one has two pins and the other 3 pins, so easy swap. I did change cam sensor for my old one because whip was just barely too short and I decided to avoid too much stress on wires. Also I plugged off the hose that feeds coolant to oil filter heater. I could have put oil filter adapter on from old engine and removed plug srewed into hole on new engine, but figured I could eliminate a couple of potential leak points. Timing covers were identical,too.

So, now I've driven it a couple of trips. I see a few infrequent, random misses on my scanner, mostly #4 and sometimes #1. I used my plugs with maybe 10,000 on Bosch platinum 2, new wire set, and the coil pack from new engine. I figure to re-check plugs on those cylinders and then swap my old coil packs for those since I didn't have any problem with the old ones. I do hear one strange knock or clatter from the front. It is mild, except around 2700 rpm and sometimes when the engine is under load driving. It sounds like more lifter/valve top end than a rod knocking. It is very mild at idle or even revving slightly as long as I don't take it into the 2700 rpm or higher and hold it. I don't know details yet on what is considered piston slap.
Was this common on '05 3400's?

Anyway, at least it is driving for now, and I have 2 vehicles again. One good thing is I found a great website. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

[WrathOfSocrus]

Rock auto shows the parts interchange ending in 2003 and a different number for some '04-'06 applications. It appears to be a physically bigger unit. If your old one is cracked now, then you may need to upgrade to the newer unit. From the pics it looks like the same connection for the refrigerant lines but mounted on the side instead of the top. If you have a short van with a single evaporator then you should be able to snag the newer line. If you have front and rear A/C then you may need to make your existing line work.

I wonder if this larger unit is a direct bolt-on for 3500 swaps.

EDIT - If you have front and rear A/C and can't make the lines work you may have to use your old oil pan in order to bolt on the older style compressor. If you could take some measurements of the mounting boss, specifically from where the pan meets the block down to the center of the bolt hole, it would be very useful for anyone in the future making this swap. A pic with a ruler up next to it would be even better!

[bob442]

Wow, that is crazy! I've never heard of a compressor casing cracking!! But I am a little confused... In the original post, you talked about getting a 3400 from a 05 Impala. In your most recent post, you referenced the compressor bolt holes being slightly off on a 3500. So, did you get a 3500 or a 3400? There shouldn't be any differences in the compressor bosses between 3400s, at least that I've ever seen or heard about.

i was kinda confused with that too...

[bszopi]

Wow, that is crazy! I've never heard of a compressor casing cracking!! But I am a little confused... In the original post, you talked about getting a 3400 from a 05 Impala. In your most recent post, you referenced the compressor bolt holes being slightly off on a 3500. So, did you get a 3500 or a 3400? There shouldn't be any differences in the compressor bosses between 3400s, at least that I've ever seen or heard about.

[pocket-rocket]

Doh! That sucks. As for the sensor in the bottom of the pan, that's the low oil warning sensor. It's almost useless anyways, since by the time it gets low enough to trip the light I'm sure your bearings and lifters will have already let you know the level is down.

[90210GTP]

Well, I got the motor Fri night after work. Spent all day Sat. swapping out parts between the two. It took a lot of comparing, more because my engine was tore down basically to the block. But I stuck with the new motors block, heads, LIM, valve covers, and oil pan. So far I have it about half re-installed. One small thing I missed was a sensor in the bottom of the oil pan (not sure what it is). The new pan has the mold for the sensor, but it was not drilled out. I'll deal with that later. The big thing was the compressor bolts. I had read how some had trouble with the bolts on the 3500 being a little off on the bottom bolt. I fooled around and got the bottom started, although with a lot of pressure on the bolt, but once I got all three started I thought I was home free. NO!! not by a long shot. All of a sudden I heard a strange hissing sound and soon saw green oil bubbling and dripping from around the compressor. Obviously the pressure from the bolts stressed the casing and cracked the compressor somewhere. So yet another expense I was not planning on. A word of caution to anyone dealing with the compressor holes not lining up between models or years. It will be a costly lesson for me. More when I get everything on and running.

[90210GTP]

More helpful advice. I'll definitely make a point to check everything twice before installing. I need this thing running yesterday.

Also, Just finalized purchase for $500. It's being shipped Mon or Tue, once I can finalize a commercial drop off point. It's too late to turn back now.

[bob442]

If anything you can just change the cam sensor with the one 8mm bolt like Jon said, the only difference is length, and i would not reccoment splicing those wires as they are some sort of silver or hard metal, making soldering impossible.
Timing covers will possibly be different as said by Brad, manifolds might change and O2 sensors might aswell. the fuel injector harness will most likely be different, but you'll be right in there anyways. Upper and lower intakes will be slightly different with heater core line connection and upper intake EGR. if you wanted to use the new lower intake you can simply tap out that hole with the proper tap, its already sized to the tap required to use the old push and lock heater core line. That is if its different.

Bottom line, the blocks are identical, just small bolt on changes are different so look over everything twice before you install the motor.

Bob

[90210GTP]

PS, the only other thing I can think of is some heads (forgot the year) came with AIR injection ports in them, but there's been a member on here that found the thread size/pitch and stuck a bolt in it and ground it down with a die grinder flush with the exhaust port floor to get around the difference.

Thanks, I'll be sure and check for those.

[90210GTP]

Thanks to all. I'll definetly go with it. Also, I had thought to try to fit it back in without messing with the heads, since I assume the 05 headgaskets were done right from the factory. or not ??? That way I use the new upper/lower intake and valve cover gaskets. I know I could drop the cradle, but I don't think I have what it takes to roll the whole assy back under the van. Either way, it will be the same or less work as I've got into it now. I spent 2 1/2 days so far getting it down to everything but pulling pistons out. The guy didn't say anything about a core, so maybe I can part somethings or recycle for scap pricings. Thanks for all the help, and keep any other tips coming.

[pocket-rocket]

To clarify what I'm talking about on pigtail length, I think one is around 10" long and the other is around 15" on the cam sensor, so if you have one around 15" you should be good either way.

[bszopi]

Connector is the same, so your harness will plug right in. No splicing necessary.

Droid via Tapatalk