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  • #31
    Hey, nothing official yet but I have the estimated repair costs and a list of what is wrong with my car. First of all I am getting my AC repaired for 111 dollars. It is old and uses FREON so it needs to be converted. Secondly, there is oil in my air filter but we are not sure why. Finally, and most importantly, my mass airflow sensor basically does not work at all. The guy at the shop said that could easily be causing my problems with my car. That will cost 230 dollars to get installed. The timing chain will not be checked though for a couple reasons. First, he is almost positive that the mass airflow sensor was my problem. Second, it will take 5 hours and 400 dollars or more just to look at the timing chain which it is looking more and more like it is ok. Let me know if what I have said makes sense and also let me know if there is anything else you thing I shoul have checked before I get my car back.

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    • #32
      YIKES! Talk about $$$! To replace the sensor yourself it would take loosening two clamps and would take you maybe 10 minutes. You could save up to $30 on the most expensive AC Delco part money can buy. If you were to buy a remanufactured sensor it would cost $155 from NAPA (good quality rebuilds). That's $75 in your pocket. Two clamps and one pigtail for $75 and 10 minutes of your time. Labor is expensive but you would have the piece of mind that a GM certified mechanic was doing the work. All up to you, but I would have no second thought about instructing my grandmother in installing it; there really isn't much difference in who installs it being that its just a sensor and not a moving part.

      Secondly: There are two 10mm bolts holding down the cam sprocket cover for timing belt access; both of which are placed directly on top to get EASY access to the belt. If they want to pop the front cover off to check it it could take four hours. Regardless of whether or not it was the culprit it's still risky running on that belt. If you take it to the guys at GM they will all advise you to change it. A master tech wouldn't even help me with my motor (rebuilding it) unless we changed the belt with all new AC Delco equipment. So I hope that whoever before you had it changed it before you got it.

      All in all: The belt may be causing a decrease in performance. Just because it isn't causing a problem doesn't mean it isn't hindering you. If they are reading no air sensor signal then obviously that's a problem. I have driven my car without the MAF plugged in and it ran hella of a lot worse than yours does in the video. You might want to spray some MAF cleaner on the contacts inside of the sensor, it may open the sensor performance range back up (if its gummed up and isn't failing). That is if they haven't already charged you for everything.

      If you want to do any of this yourself let me know and I will send you pictures and instructions on how to. I understand perfectly if you'd rather just let the shop do it. Just let me know.
      Getaway cars:
      1986 Fiero SE | 2.0 OHC Turbo/Intercooled | MT2 5 Speed - 1994 Dodge Stealth | 6G72 SOHC 12v | F4a33 - 1999 Ford Windstar | 3.8 Essex | AX4S -1998 Lexus SC400 | 4.0 DOHC 1UZ | A650E

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      • #33
        hey man whats going on!? I gotta 1994 Zedder as well, man these things haul... I watched your video, The engines powerband is 4400 RPM keep it there and its smooth sailing. You have oil in your intake as well eh? I don't know whats with these cars? If you find out can you PLEASE PLEASE be sure to tell me what its from. I know I have an oil leak somewhere on the top of my block, I think its from the oil pump drive thingy where the distributer plug is... Make sure your Zedder isn't leakin oil like a pig! Run the engine and check under the front end while its running. Oh yeah, the feul filter! CHANGE IT! It costs 14.50 canadian for a new filter and trust me, when you put the new one on, with my engine still stock, I pulled a 50m burnout!!! Layin rubber. All of the work you can do by yourself if you get a haynes manual.

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        • #34
          oh yeah one more thing, don't let anybody bullshit yeah, its the parts for these cars that are expensive, not the work, grab that manual and do it all yourself, the car will love you forever... Mechanics Shops will fuck your ass around hard because they don't know whats going on when it comes to these sweet ass cars. The MAF sensor, it takes me 20 seconds to slip it off, and 30 seconds to slip it back on. You can do it blindfolded. There is a little arrow on it that shows you the path of air flow.

          One more thing, if you find out that oil leak is please let me know cause I can't figure it out for the life of me.

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          • #35
            Well, I have no car repair experience at all and my car was already in the shop so I just left it there. I got it back this afternoon though. YES! My car runs perfectly, it is completely fixed, no hesitiation at all, correct 0-60, it is amazing. I am incredibly happy that after well over 1000 dollars (since I bought it) it is fixed! I will try to make a new video soon, thank you everyone for your imput on my car!

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            • #36
              Can't wait for vids! I disagree with the statement above though. Parts for the 3.4 TDC are more expensive than most GM's but no more in relativity to other DOHC motors (toyota, mitsubishi). Labor is also high, but its really not that these motors are hard to work on, just that they sound complicated and mechanics think they can get away with overcharge.

              Jordoug I wouldn't say that the Z34 is the perfect platform to learn on, but it will definitly help you in the long run to start fimilarizing yourself too it. If you want to learn about motors there is no time like the present!

              Once again Bravo on the fix. If you ever run across another 94 dohc in a junkyard be SURE to pull the MAF and the cam sensors off of it. You now know why they come in handy.
              Getaway cars:
              1986 Fiero SE | 2.0 OHC Turbo/Intercooled | MT2 5 Speed - 1994 Dodge Stealth | 6G72 SOHC 12v | F4a33 - 1999 Ford Windstar | 3.8 Essex | AX4S -1998 Lexus SC400 | 4.0 DOHC 1UZ | A650E

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              • #37
                Oh one more thing...

                Start saving and change that belt!
                Getaway cars:
                1986 Fiero SE | 2.0 OHC Turbo/Intercooled | MT2 5 Speed - 1994 Dodge Stealth | 6G72 SOHC 12v | F4a33 - 1999 Ford Windstar | 3.8 Essex | AX4S -1998 Lexus SC400 | 4.0 DOHC 1UZ | A650E

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Emc209i View Post
                  just that they sound complicated and mechanics think they can get away with overcharge.
                  Bingo.



                  But congrats on the fix. It's always nice getting your car running just right. I would know. It's a good feeling huh?
                  '93 Sunbird. 5spd, 3.1, it's fast. Oh, and 240k miles has proven lethal against Turbo Talons

                  I'm lurking occasionaly. It's tough because I'm usually too busy with the Army or my 5.0 Mustang. Which is for sale.

                  camaromanmatt@yahoo.com

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                  • #39
                    that kinda sounds like don't let anybody bullshit ya...

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                    • #40
                      Sorry this took so long, here is my new video. It is not full throttle all the way because I was turning but my car does do an almost normal 0-60 now.

                      My Z34 is finally fixed, it's mass airflow sensor was dead. Now it does 7.5 to 8 seconds to 60. THis video was a little slow though because I was turning and...

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                      • #41
                        Oil in intake? Its usually PCV valve.. use a catch can.

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