HHHHELLLLLLLLLPPPP

[montessgtp]

Ok... was replacing my injectors notice that the EGR tube felt loose so investigated and found to be broken in several places...ok so i figured not to bad remove the bolt and replace it. However bein the location sucks it was a lil hard , than thing changes drastically as i was loosing the bolt the BOLT broke off leaving bout 2/4 of inch stick up... after doin that i figured id call it a day considering ill be waiting 5-10 days for the TUBE from GM..

my question is....how the hell do i get that stud out with out breaking it further down on the manifold? I sprayed PB blast on it twice hopefully to soak it in. Any and all suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Doesnt it figured that Domestic vs Import FWD challenge would be this weekend at are local drag strip. Guess ill be a specator again this year.

[RednBlack]

Is 2/4" a 1/2 "? If it is, you are in luck. Get a good pair of vise grips, tighten down on that sucker and wiggle! Ever so gently, observing to see if the bolt is actually turning or twisting. if it is turning wiggle it a little farther each time, but don't try taking it out all at once. Take it 1/2 turn and STOP! Let the stud cool down. That's probably why it broke in the first place, it got hot and expanded tight into the hole. If it breaks off you have no choice but to drill it out. After you get it out, chase the threads with the appropriate size tap and use anti-sieze on the new bolt. Good Luck!

[bud36light]

Use any kind of penetrating oil you can find and lots of it. Kroil is the best Ive found. Also give it lots of time to work.Is there room to get vise grips in there? If not try using one of those "sockets" that exhaust guys use to remove broken studs out of flanges. They work pretty good.

[grandprixgtp_91]

my sugestion is to take a torch and heat up the area around the bolt untill it is red hot, dont heat the bolt just the manifold around it. then after it gets red hot spray some wd-40 on it and put some vise grips on it at tight as you can and turn it. that is the best way i have found to get those damned things out.

Jake

[RednBlack]

Hmmm. You post about a broken bolt, I reply and guess what! Wife's Mercury Villager broke the damn timing tensioner bolt! Not so lucky here. Broke off flush! F....n' Nissan Rice burnin' POS!

[mihela816]

Doesn't glowing manifold + WD-40 = fire?

[RednBlack]

Fire! Fire! HehHeh! Also looking at a cracked manifold. Cast warps big time when heated red hot. Plus you may pull your threads, end up going to a larger size. Dat's a bitch! Mine's fixed. Stud wasn't tight in the hole. Tacked a weld rod to it and it came right out. Mommas Ricer is roadworthy again.

[Mike W]

This will help get lubricant down the threads. Get the torch and heat the are surrounding the broken bolt. Then take a candle (birthday candle is the right size) and push it in around the base of the threads. The parrafin will wick down in there. Works on any angle. Get some extra large vice grips and tighten like hell. Should come out. Don't maul the bolt. If that doesn work, get an over nut or whatever will slip over the bolt and arc weld the top of the nut to the bolt. then turn it out with a wrench. Just a suggestion from an old- timer! Good luck!

[grandprixgtp_91]

when your crusing and your engines doing about 2000 rpm the back manifold is red hot. yes heating the mainfold around the bolt will help the wd 40 soak in, also the wd 40 will not catch on fire, well it has not happend to me yet and i do this all the time for siezed bolts.

Jake

[RednBlack]

also the wd 40 will not catch on fire, well it has not happend to me yet and i do this all the time for siezed bolts.

Read the can! Highly Flammable! Let's not get anyone hurt over a little bolt!

[montessgtp]

well Im not self assured to put a torch in that area considering i can let a lone barelly get my hand down there. Let see i purchased some good old stud removers in that size..gonna build some patients and mess w/it. But thanx for all the advise. I been spraying PB blast on it as much as i can, however that bitch is tight as hell. I need SMALL vise grips considering the bigger ones wont fit for me to get any kinda of levrage....owell ... But considering the price of gas im very content with driving my good ol verizon Pick up...

[Lyle's GTP]

I recommend using a pair of 10" Channel Lock Nut Buster pliers, they work better than vise grips. Don't heat it red hot and then WD it. The WD will catch fire or just burn off and have no effect. I would heat it very hot, then do the candle wax trick. Red hot is not nessesary.

Trust me, I've removed hundreds and hundreds of broken bolts, studs, plugs and just about anything else that could get stuck in an engine.

Lyle

[60dgrzbelow0]

I need swift kick in the ass. ...Today... I just decided I could churn through a list of repairs that included silencing the constant "Johnny Carson Show Drum Roll" inside my busted OEM CAT on my '93 Z-28. I got a decent, direct fit replacement OEM quality CAT/Y-Pipe and after jacking the car and eye-balling and dowsing the unholy trio of studs/nuts (?) with soime WD-40, I threw a 14mm hardened steel deep socket on a half-inch drive with some long extensions on the outer one...and using my considerable (and thoughtless) use of arm strength, I snapped that effing bolt off like it was made of butter... flush with the inside of the thin, stock Y-Pipe flange! Now I'm usually the one who advocates proper planning and prep on most of the jobs that I do... but "Haste is the The Hand-Maiden of FUBARs" and I broke my own rule today and will probably suffer mightily for it. I read this post and some others on different forums...but I could not find anything suggesting how I work on this job laying on my back without having red hot welding spatter stuff and drilling spall dropping in my face while trying to rescue things. I am prepared to remove the exhaust manifolds and have a few replacements, gaskets, new hardened exhaust manifold bolts and some crossover pipe take-off flange stud kits coming just in case I wind up stymied with this busted stud while the exhaust manifold is in the car. I discovered an alternative to PBR Blaster on the gunsmith sites... it is called AEROKROIL (or Just plain KROIL in the non-spray jug) and supposedly...it makes WD-40 look like Super-Glue in comparison to its ability to bust rust and free things up. I ordered a few spray cans off eBay and will start with using it on the remaining untouched studs/bolts. Here are the links to some interesting related sites and some images of what one guy did by welding a nut onto the tips of not one...but three busted studs in one of his engine heads and then coaxed them out of the block. So Gentleman... any additional ideas from you all will be very much appreciated :

http://www.kanolabs.com/

http://www.texaspowerwagon.com/mnfldblt.htm

http://mypage.direct.ca/k/kdomries/tricks.html

Oh... and props to RednBlack for the welding tip ...on the tip of the busted bolt... it's a pretty cool if it can be pulled off here in such close quarters...(See FTC Avatar in his Honor)

[pocket-rocket]

6 1/2 years old, Bob!

[60dgrzbelow0]

6 1/2 years old, Bob!

Yes... I know that the thread is almost as long-in-the-tooth now as I am... but this problem and its solution are almost universal to all cars and trucks ...and I thought...well...aren't we supposed to follow Brad's admonition to use the "Search" feature B4 digging up a field on a subject that has been thoroughly ploughed (plowed?) (or solved) by other members? I guess I was trying too hard on this one... Sorry, Bro... My Bad...