replacing the infamous "o-ring"

[ryan.hess]

Hey everyone... I'm new to the list. I've been told by a GM mechanic that when taken to their shop to replace the distributor/oil pump drive o-ring, that they just grind off a bit (like 1/4") of the head. He mentioned doing this to a intake mounting tang, so it doesn't affect anything critical. Has anybody done this?

[STR]

yes, i have. its the cheapest way to do it without taking the rear head off.

[ryan.hess]

Great! What/where do I have to grind? Maybe somebody could scribble in ms paint what needs to come off? btw - this is from the tranny side. Your quick response is helpful!! I've gotta get this thing back together before tomorrow

[bwawuz02]

screw that noise, i've done this repair to 3 diff cars, just get some jb weld, screw grinding the head. all i did was lift that sucker up with a pair of needle nose pliers and shove as much jb under it as i could with a flat tip screw driver. it works really well if you have someone spin the shaft with the pliers while you work the jb weld in with the screw driver. i'd try to score the metal up a little bit before hand. oh and make sure you clean it off really good with some carb cleaner and paper towels. i always shove a rag in the coolant passage cuz it likes to spill out right in the middle of jb welding it.

[Anonymous]

I used JB Weld also, its held for over 2 years.... If I had to do it again, I would notch the head instead of making it a permanent fixture.

[mattdez]

So can someone actually explain what needs to be ground down? With my luck recently I know I'll end up having to replace that ring on my GTP.

[Anonymous]

I think this part does (not entirely sure though):

[ryan.hess]

thanks guys... I finally got it, and I'm not sure I would recommend the grinding method, unless you despise pulling the head or something... I had to *completely* remove the intake mount tang/boss thing shown, AND, had to grind down the top of the plug, AND had to grind down the head to about 1/8" clearance to the coolant port. I don't think it would have come out without completely grinding the mount - the thing would not tip or tilt at all like I was told. Maybe this only works on later years? (mine's a 93) Anyways... for what it's worth. I can take some pictures if anyone's interested.

[pocket-rocket]

You completely removed the tang? Did you notice the coolant passage directly above it? I don't think you are going to get a good seal on that portion of the intake gasket now since there is nothing for the bolt to torque lower intake down to on that corner, making a weak seal. I would silicone the snot out of that part of the gasket.

[leakyX]

Hey guys, im new to this board! I agree with bwawuz02, i sealed mine up with black GM silicone about a year and a half ago, i had just done intake gaskets two months prior, so i said screw taking the upper and lower back off, i just got in there with a long pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers and a long screwdriver and just worked it all the way around. It hasnt leaked since.

[95gtp]

You completely removed the tang? Did you notice the coolant passage directly above it? I don't think you are going to get a good seal on that portion of the intake gasket now since there is nothing for the bolt to torque lower intake down to on that corner, making a weak seal. I would silicone the snot out of that part of the gasket.

Now he gets to use the JB weld on the intake

I used the JB weld fix almost 6 months ago and no problems so far. I also changed the O ring on my 3.1 TGP. WOW it was so freakin easy compared to the 3.4. The plenum seemed more of a PITA than the 3.4 though.

[ChevyZ34]

Hey guys I have a 97 Z34 (MC) and I'm having the same problem I need to fix that O-Ring, I'm confused on what exactily what to do when fixing the o-ring when it comes to lifting the head or cover to access the o-ring.

Also how does the O-Ring come out? does it have to be pryed out, or does it lift right out. Thanks guys......

[pocket-rocket]

When you remove the oil pump drive (the thing being held down with that bolt and bracket), it is on the drive itself towards the top. It is in a grove in the drive, and mine was really hard, so i cut it off with knife. The new one wasn't hard to work on there since it was still nice and pliable. I started it on from the bottom, where the drive gear was since it was smaller around then the top and I didn't want to stretch it out.

[396ss]

Hey guys - do you only add the sealant when installing a new o-ring?

Just wondering since I am in the process of replacing lower intake gaskets - figure I might as well kill as many birds with one stone as possible.

[Juglenaut]

I only ground off less than 1/4 of an inch off that tang bose.

A simple yet effective way to cure this for a short term is just to put a High Temp O-ring that will stretch over the plug cap but fit tightly against the assembly under the cap, and bolt it down snug.

I did the grinding thing on my GTP and did the quick way with my Euro, and niether one of them had a leak since.

To think that I got quoted about 300 on the GTP and 190 or so on the Euro to do this job and most times they will just do the simple yet effective way and charge an arm and a leg.