Torque Plate Honing

[Lyle's GTP]

Hey guys, I want to build a torque plate to hone my block. I was wondering if making it out of mild steel will cause it not to work right. Because I know the off-the-shelf torque plates are cast. Also, is 1 inch plate steel thick enough, or should I go to 2 inch plate? Another thing, when it gets done does it have to be torqued on with a gasket in place? Oh, just one more thing. Do the cylinder holes have to be perfect, or could I slack off a bit grinding them to size. Any input on this would be great, thanks.

Lyle

[patgizz]

hmm.

1" should be fine, doesnt matter if cast or plate. yes with the gasket in place. holes should be very close but a bigger so you hone the cylinder and not the plate.

[Lyle's GTP]

Yes, I knew the larger hole thing. I will make it out of 2" if I can find a piece laying around.

Lyle

[xxrollin]

2" plate of steel?? Thats pricey. Even for an aluminum plate. I'd just get a cast one from a supplier. Cause the heads are cast aluminum and there really isnt much difference that I can see other than cost. Also, what are you using to Hone out the cylinders with. I know about the portable ones you can get and use a hand-held drill to power it but herd that tapper and roundness are an issue with this peice. I like the Sunnen Machines, they seem to do a good job with roundness and tapper. Just my $.02.......

[Lyle's GTP]

As far as I know a cast one isn't available. But I have a piece of scrap 2" plate steel kicking around at work. Buy the way aluminum would be like 3-4 times more than steel, and a plate of that thickness would probably have to be special ordered. As far as honeing goes, I'd never touch one of those lawn mower hones. I will probably take it to Optimax here. I got some friends there that will do a good job, plus the production manager would probably do it under the table too. Oh, they have a Sunnen CK-21.

Lyle

[xxrollin]

Good choice on the sunnen machine, I'm looking into getting the CK-21 also. I need it since some shops around here want to charge to much.
I know aluminum is more than steel. What kind of steel you got?

[pocket-rocket]

I got some friends there that will do a good job, plus the production manager would probably do it under the table too. Lyle

I would rather do it on top of the table. Under the table is most likely dirty, has space limitations, and the lighting can't be that great either...

Besides, I thought torque plates were more for boring and not honing?

[Lyle's GTP]

AHAHAHHHAHAHHA..........very funny. No I think the hone is the most important part. The torque plate is so you can get your cylinders as straight as possible. The cylinders take the shape they would if the head was bolted on, it's for the final pass.

But I found a nice fat piece of 1-1/2" steel plate at work that will work real nice. Does any body have the engineering specs/blue prints for our blocks. I need to know the bolt hole locations as well as the cylinder locations on the block deck. I could use a gasket, but that's a pain in the ass and I would like to be more accurate than that. So help guys, thanks.

Lyle

[xxrollin]

Well the bore to bore centers are 4.4" apart. From the center of the bore to the head bolts on the exhaust side are 1.854. From the center up to the head bolts are 1.9845 for the 2 outer bolt holes. And from the center to the 2 center bolt holes on the intake side are 1.854. Along the exhaust side, the head bolts are 4.4 center to center, for all 4. So 2.2 from the center of the bore. The 4 head bolts on the intake side are 4.4 apart also, but the 2 outer bolts on both sides of the head are .114 inward. It'd be easy to copy this and send it to you. If you want it. It looks confussing as hell and I expect it to be hard to understand. Anyway, so what kind of material do you have and what do you plan to cut it on. If you send it to me, I can cut it for you for next to nothing on a Mori Seiki Vertical CNC Mill. When I get time. It'll be accurate as hell, thats for sure.....

[Lyle's GTP]

Well I don't have access to a CNC mill. The material is 1-1/2" mild steel. I think we are going to use the end mill on a lathe here in the shop. I will have to lay it out by hand, but I think I can do it. I've got lots of Millwrites and Machinists running around here to help me out. If you could send me those drawings it would be great. I think I got it figured out from what you wrote, but a drawing would be really helpful. I'd love for you to help me but, Tampa is a long way from Edmonton. I think the shipping charges for a 75lbs piece of steel would be kinda stupid. However I will have extra plate so if I fuck up maybe then you can help me out. Anyway let me know how you want to send the drawings. Thanks

Lyle

[xxrollin]

I'll send it by e-mail. I'll get with you about it tomarrow. Mild steel shouldnt be to bad to cut. 304 was a bitch, but 321 was easy, aint that some shiznit. Do you guys got a Bridgeport?? I cant see how your gonna cut it if you put say a 1/2 endmill in a lathe. Your not turning anything.. Anyway, I'll get this copied for you then send it off by e-mail. Good luck.....