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obd1 to obd2 conversion

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  • robertisaar
    replied
    uh-oh is time to start school:

    $DF calulates how much air is going into the engine, not directly since its a SD system, but assuming the VE tables are correct it will give you the right number is grams/sec...

    SFI....... what a gimmick, when i fired up the monte yesterday for the first time with the DF PCM, i've never had it idle so well, sure emissions might be a little lower, but in michigan, there's no testing. and OBD1 has had SFI, actually back in 1984 i believe, when the first GN came around. i bet i burn chips and swap them out faster than it takes to flash your PCM... ZIF sockets FTW.

    for me, there's no advantage to OBD2...

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  • OldSkoolGP
    replied
    refering to yourself in third person....
    Well, everyone always forgets that I was the first or second one to (insert DOHC related modification here), so I I know a lot of the problems and the pitfalls. It's not pretention, just goofiness.

    Simpicity is nice..........

    Until you want to know how much air you're actually getting into the engine. Then you need OBD-II. Also, SFI never hurt anyone. OBD-II is really not that complicated. The extra sensors you need aren't even a problem if you start with a 96 or newer engine. If, like me though, you start with a 92 engine, you gotta change a lot. But even so, I'm glad I did it because now I can tune my car without having to pulls chips in and out. I reflash it right in the car in 30 seconds. And because HPtuners accepts input from a wideband O2 sensor, I have all my data and calculations in one nice little package. Simple!

    Oh, and the trick to getting OBD-II to run a manual transmission is to convince the computer it still has a transmission to control. The solution is unusual, but again, simple!
    Last edited by OldSkoolGP; 05-22-2009, 09:24 AM.

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  • robertisaar
    replied
    Saar also does not like OBD2, hence the OBD1.5 to OBD1 conversion. it removes the second crank sensor and cam sensor for even more simplicity. Saar likes simplicity...

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  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    Pocket-rocket thumbs his nose at OBD 2 and says "KISS" (keep it simple stupid), but I think he's kinda weird...

    Originally posted by robertisaar View Post
    refering to yourself in third person....

    i'm thinking it involves a switch that tells the PCM the car is in neutral when the clutch is depressed?
    That would be one approach to launch rpm control...

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  • robertisaar
    replied
    refering to yourself in third person....

    i'm thinking it involves a switch that tells the PCM the car is in neutral when the clutch is depressed?

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  • OldSkoolGP
    replied
    OldskoolGP has done the swap too. He's even got it working with a 5 speed. I have no idea how, you'd have to ask him.

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  • timg
    replied
    W-bodies require a new engine harness and PCM. The firewall connector needs to be re-pinned, but most still work. RedZMonte has done the swap.

    Tim

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  • IsaacHayes
    replied
    In the L bodies, you can swap the engine bay harness and fix a couple wires on the inside and it's done.

    I've heard another L body who just repinned the connectors on the inside.

    but this is obd1.5 to obd2.... Full obd1 will need a lot more work than jsut repinning.

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  • choppester
    started a topic obd1 to obd2 conversion

    obd1 to obd2 conversion

    ok I know we've had this tread but what we never talked about whats the process of switching obd1 to obd2. can we cut and splice wires from a 94-95 ob1 to a obd2 96 or do we have to switch out all the wiring harnesses dash, engine, and drive terrain, and what have any of the people who have done it in the past explain to me how did it turn out
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